tj884Rdlx

[QUOTE=1990yota-pickup;51322246]here is the deal you have been lookng for.. 500.00 for a whole truck

[url]

I just called this # and a woman answered and told me to call a local atl number. But , she said to ask for Jack Hoff.

Jack Hoff??

hello? I'm lookin for a Jackhoff. A woman told me I could get a Jackhoff here. Do you know this person, Jackhoff??

can this be for real? Haha I called it no answer tho

1990yota-pickup

well, some people pull pranks.. but ya never know some times so u need to take everypost serious..

Junkers88

Yeah this right here is the least expensive option.


I'd still like to knowif it was actually the rings or if a valve is stuck open or something.

tj884Rdlx

wow! just got done reading your rebuild thread. you got some nerve referring to yourself as "non-mechanic". lol your thread is super detailed, and you are obviously being just as detailed in the rebuild. i hope it all turns out perfectly when you go to turn that key for the first time. you've built quite a reference for 22re restoration.

i wish i could tear into my engine like this. old motorcycle injuries really limit my ability to do work myself. i can't stay in any bent over position too long, or reach and look up at the same time. (it sux, but better than being dead or a vegetable so i can't really complain)

i'm going to look into a full engine swap from recent wreck first. hopefully i can find a cheap donor vehicle with a nice powerplant. there's such a wide range of cost depending on how long and deep i search for a solution. i've seen some wrecks at auction for $200, meanwhile some performance long blocks to $2000.

i'm going to read some more 3.4 swap threads, and see how the expense of a full engine/trans swap compares to tearing the top end off and replacing the bottom end on mine. i could possibly get help and do a full swap at home, where i'm only connecting and disconnecting. but otherwise i'm looking at how to minimize overall labor.

i am not going to make any decisions quickly it appears, because the money just doesn't exist yet. fortunately i have a cycle, so i'll be freezing my arse for the rest of the winter and praying for very few rain below 40* days.

but thanx for stickin' a post in over here; even tho it didn't say much, your build thread has spoken volumes.

keep at it, and continued good luck. i'll be following your progress.

tj

tj884Rdlx

you're welcome to come by and look into it! haha

i haven't talked to the shop much, because of the holiday an' all but i'll call them again just to ask more details on their conclusions. but if they did the leak down test and found it was a bad ring leaking to the crank case, i would believe that before suspecting that a valve was hanging up on the head i had rebuilt almost 2yrs ago.

so my leading options seem to be A) replace completely, possibly get a newer Taco engine, or B) just replace the short block. The ratio of parts to labor expenses will be very different for these two paths.

i may be able to do a swap myself if i can recruit a helper. (which would be difficult)

but thx for another vote that short block may be cheapest. i will investigate further this week and post some results of my research.

tj884Rdlx

y'no, Tim, i really just don't trust the rest of that block.

since i've owned the truck, its become clear that whoever did the first rebuild did not do a great job. their errors have become the failures i've been fixing since i've had it. so to do one cyl would really not relieve my concern about that block.

when i had the top end done two years ago, i had the strongest suspicion i should not have kept the block then. but budget restrictions made it easy to "hope for the best" and keep it. 2 yrs later i'm paying the price for that now.

but a short block swap may be a good idea. i'm going to research the expense of that vs. a full swap from a wreck.

thx for checkin' in man!
Tj

babyfood1217

If you decide to go with a new motor, don't do anything other than OERI (oregon engine rebuilders) Lifetime warranty is hard to beat. They do not unfortunately do short blocks. I asked two weeks ago, hoping the answer would be yes, but alas, it was no (I didn't need a full long block as I had an engnbldr.com head sprung and valved waiting for a bottom half to go on to.) I sprung for the long block, stock 22re with metal timing guide, and just finished my initial 500 mile break-in. Can't wait to change the oil and really drive it!

peow130

I think you should just replace the rings for the short run, then when it's warmer out and you can ride your bike, then start saving for a new block or engine or whatever.

tj884Rdlx

this may be the way to go.

i've also been thinking of buying a beater for $350 and driving it til it's warm.

the more i think about what to do, the less confident i feel about any option. i will look at some stuff tomorrow. i have a list from the local craigslist.

some 22re ads. one guy even has an ad to install a motor for $900. i gotta talk to that guy.

93YotaGuy

I sure would love to see an 09 22re!

peow130

Pick a weekend, it usually doesnt take long to pull apart one of these engines, and since all you're doing is pulling out one piston it should take 2 days of solid work.

Windsor

When you call it, ask for "John Hoff".

tj884Rdlx

so what you and some others are sayin here is that i can pull the oil pan, and then remove the crankshaft too? then i can get to the bad cylinder and replace just the rings?

what if the cylinder wall is scored from the ring? can it be resleeved while it's still in the truck?

i'm thinking that unless im very lucky, the motor has to come out.

i am NOT very lucky.

1990yota-pickup

for all the work it would be alot easier to tear the engine down on a stand and fix it properly.. and find a parts truck or a beater car to get you around.. pleanty of cars for sale under 1000.00 dollars. yes some a straight junk some ppl just dont know any better.. cuz all they want is new and they dont know what they have...

fordmgt1

You cannot remove the crank with the transmission still attached, the flywheel is bolted to it.

More than likely you will have to remove the head, because the new piston rings will need to be compressed (with a ring compressor) to be installed. I have never installed a piston from the bottom (though one may be able to "turn" the crank out of the way to remove the piston from the bottom), I'm not saying its impossible, I just don't know how that would be done.

I have replaced just rings before due to low compression, and have enjoyed many more miles trouble free. It sounds like the mechanic did a leak down test to determine where the pressure was lost (i.e. through the valves or through the rings).

1990yota-pickup

you will never get that piston out or in from the bottom of the engine

flyingbrass

Thanks. I hope it helps others doing their first rebuild.

Having been there myself recently, I know deciding what to do when your engine needs major work isn't easy.

I don't know how you'd get pistons in from the bottom, or if they'll even come out that way to begin with.

To re-ring you'd need to pull the head and the oil pan, which would mean dropping/removing the front diff. You'd need to hone the cylinders. You're talking essentially an in-frame engine rebuild. Seems like a lot of work for only new rings, head gasket, and probably a timing set. I'm sure it would also be more physically taxing than having the engine in front of you on a stand.

If I had a block that had already been bored .040" over I wouldn't rebuild it. So, that makes a swap of whatever kind (used or new 22RE or something else) more attractive from the get go.

Good luck whatever you decide.

1990yota-pickup

thats what i said many of times...

tim a.

pistons go in either way.its a hole.I have taken them out from bottom when I was too cheap to buy a ridge reamer.Goes in with a ring compressor,just like from top.maybe easier since you have a rod to hold.I just wasnt sure if crank would move far enough to clear everything.I wouldnt trust that motor either,just looking at the lowest buck option.I would rebuild a 40 over motor if the bore was straight.eb has taken some to 60 with sonic check.22re is a pretty cheap motor to overhaul,and butt simple.Eb will sell you parts and walk you through any probs or questions.

tj884Rdlx

while looking around for a cheap beater (so i wouldn't have to ride the m/c in 18* anymore) i found a guy who customizes toyotas. turns out he's got a lot full of them. and he shops with LC and EB regularly. so i left the truck with him and said "let's do it right this time"

so we're scrappin' that block, and he's got a nice one that's never been bored. it's at the machine shop now getting refurb'd.

the top side of my recently rebuilt head looks fantastic, but it's not off the block yet, so i don't know if there's enough left to shave it again. *crosses fingers* hopefully it can be reused.

going to go ahead with a double row t-chain this time, never worry about that again. new clutch and flywheel resurf too.

i need to have a yard sale and sell everything i dont use for some extra loot to cover this work. but i've made up my mind to push forward and make a nice truck.

meanwhile, i got an 87 civic 4dr for $400 bux! a good deal. it's got some carb issues but seems to be good enough to get to work. and it's got heat.

more info as i have it