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Motor mount torque specs (22re)

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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 09:28 AM
  #1  
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Motor mount torque specs (22re)

I need the torque specs for the bolts that hold the motor mount to the block and the bolts that hold the motor mounts to the frame and lastly the nut that secures the two mounts together.

Does any one know of a good website that has reliable torque specs

Thanks
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 09:52 AM
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Also I've been told that it is easier to install the motor with the tranny attached. Do you just have to unbolt the front drive line?
Thanks
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Loomis
I need the torque specs for the bolts that hold the motor mount to the block and the bolts that hold the motor mounts to the frame and lastly the nut that secures the two mounts together.

Does any one know of a good website that has reliable torque specs

Also I've been told that it is easier to install the motor with the tranny attached. Do you just have to unbolt the front drive line?
Thanks
The "Cylinder block x Engine mounting" bolts are 29 ft-lbs , and the "Cylinder block x Engine mounting bracket" bolts are 33 ft-lbs. According to page EG1-80 of the 93 FSM.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...11services.pdf

I can't seem to find the specs for the mount to frame bolts. That's odd that I can't find it in there too. There's seems to be torque specs for every other concievable nut and bolt in there. It's probably in there somewhere...

This is what it says about removing the engine with the transmission:

18. (M/T)
REMOVE SHIFT LEVER(S) FROM INSIDE OF VEHI–
CLE

19. REMOVE REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
(See PR section)

20. (2WD A/T)
DISCONNECT MANUAL SHIFT LINKAGE FROM
PNP SWITCH

21. (4WD A/T)
DISCONNECT TRANSFER SHIFT LINKAGE
(a) Disconnect the No.1 and No.2 transfer shift linkages
from the cross shaft.
(b) Remove the cross shaft from the body.

22. DISCONNECT SPEEDOMETER CABLE
NOTICE: Do not lose the felt dust protector and washers.

23. (4WD)
REMOVE TRANSFER UNDER COVER

24. (4WD)
REMOVE STABILIZER BAR

25. (4WD)
REMOVE FRONT PROPELLER SHAFT
(See PR section)

26. REMOVE NO.1 FRAME CROSSMEMBER

28. (M/T)
REMOVE CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER WITH
BRACKET FROM TRANSMISSION

29. (4WD)
REMOVE NO.1 FRONT FLOOR HEAT INSULATOR
AND BRAKE TUBE HEAT INSULATOR

31. (4WD)
REMOVE NO.2 FRAME CROSSMEMBER FROM SIDE
FRAME
(a) Remove the four bolts from the engine rear mounting.
(b) Raise the transmission slightly with a jack.
(c) Remove the four bolts from the side frame and
remove the No.2 frame crossmember.

32. REMOVE ENGINE WITH TRANSMISSION FOR VE-
HICLE

(a) Attach the engine hoist chain to the lift brackets of the engine
(b) Remove the mounting nuts and bolts.
(c) Lift engine out of the vehicle slowly and carefully.

HINT: Make sure the engine is clear of all wiring and hoses.

33. REMOVE TRANSMISSION FROM ENGINE
(a) (A/T)
Remove the A/T oil cooler pipes.
(b) Remove the starter.
(c) Remove the two stiffener plates and exhaust pipe
bracket from engine.
(d) Remove the transmission from the engine.

34. (M/T)
REMOVE CLUTCH COVER AND DISC
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ine/9cylin.pdf

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Last edited by MudHippy; Dec 8, 2010 at 09:05 PM.
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 06:34 PM
  #4  
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From: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
I think it's between, bap bap bap bap bap bap...

And bap bap bap...


"Kind of like torqueing with an impact gun:

HOW TO TORQUE WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH.

(Don't try this at home)

TORQUE VALUE
25 to 35 ft/lbs BAP! BAP!
35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP!
45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
90 to 100 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
110 to 300 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!"
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MudHippy
I can't seem to find the specs for the mount to frame bolts.
Got it!

I finally found it under STANDARD BOLT TORQUE SPECS on page B-2 in the 88 FSM. I looked at the heads on mine to verify their classification(grade), which is 5T(Two protruding lines on the head). It states on page B-3 that a 5T 10mm(M10) x 1.25(thread pitch) hexagon bolt has a specified torque of 24 ft-lbs.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/87 4Runne...4runner_88.pdf

Last edited by MudHippy; Dec 8, 2010 at 09:06 PM.
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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From: Southeast alaska
Thanks for the specs.
I was able to install the engine with the tray attached without removeing anything but the exhaust.
Thanks again
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 10:38 PM
  #7  
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I Ment to say tranny but my phone sometimes decides that it just wants to change words Thanks again
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 08:07 AM
  #8  
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From: puyallup, Wa
i got a new block and i went to put my motor mounts on and the farthest back rear mounting holes in the middle of the block arnt drilled!!! what do i do?? could i get away with running just two bolts?? somebody please help me out.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by upslidedown
i got a new block and i went to put my motor mounts on and the farthest back rear mounting holes in the middle of the block arnt drilled!!! what do i do?? could i get away with running just two bolts?? somebody please help me out.
Do you have a 4cyl or a V6?
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 10:41 AM
  #10  
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4cyl or V6? They both use 4 bolts on each side for their motor mount brackets. Some 3VZ-Es have a different LH bracket that only uses 3 bolts. But isn't this thread about 22R-Es?

Anywho...how could using only 2 bolts where there should be 3 or 4 ever be a good idea? Sounds to me like you need to be doin' some drillin' & tappin'.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 11:16 AM
  #11  
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Donny, you're out of your element
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From: Marysville, WA
All 22R, 20R, 21RU, and 18R engines use the exact same bolt pattern. So he can't be talking about a 4cyl, they ALL use the same bolt patterns and mounting.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 07:23 PM
  #12  
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From: puyallup, Wa
4 cylinder 22re i re stripped the block today and took it in to the local machine shop and they are tapping and threading the holes tomorrow, its so strange though iv never in my life seen any 22r block come like that.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #13  
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Wink

Originally Posted by DeathCougar
All 22R, 20R, 21RU, and 18R engines use the exact same bolt pattern. So he can't be talking about a 4cyl, they ALL use the same bolt patterns and mounting.
Is that right?
Originally Posted by upslidedown
4 cylinder 22re i re stripped the block today and took it in to the local machine shop and they are tapping and threading the holes tomorrow, its so strange though iv never in my life seen any 22r block come like that.
Lesson to be learned here is this, give a guy the benefit of the doubt. Not everybody is as dumb as you think. Even if the story is a little strange. Which it certainly is. I've never heard of such a thing before neither.

Last edited by MudHippy; Jan 3, 2012 at 07:38 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 09:24 PM
  #14  
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From: puyallup, Wa
Motor mount torque specs (22re)-22r.jpg the part in the yellow are the two mounting spots that were not drilled and tapped and all four wrapped in red are where my mounts bolt up
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 12:20 AM
  #15  
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From: NW WA
Originally Posted by tried4x2signN
I think it's between, bap bap bap bap bap bap...

And bap bap bap...


"Kind of like torqueing with an impact gun:

HOW TO TORQUE WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH.

(Don't try this at home)

TORQUE VALUE
25 to 35 ft/lbs BAP! BAP!
35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP!
45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
90 to 100 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
110 to 300 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!"

Fantastic! haha
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