btw anybody had trouble with the top passensger side bolt on the rear of the engine bolting the trans to the engine. i've tired putting all the bolts back in and just taking it off *nothing is turning that thing* i went at tring to cut it off by attempting to crack the block around it *it's already blown with a huge hole it's the whole reason why im building a new engine*. wish i woulda bought a plasma cutter

 

i gotta replace most of my bolts so which of these go where feel free to photoshop
yes i wrote it down as i took it out but everything is missing

 

the ones with the sleeves look like the timing chain guide bolts.

This diagram might help ya out too:



the top bolt on the oil pump on that diagram is not labeled and it's important that it's not too long. SHould not go through more than this:

 

thanx for the replys

 

I'm building a new engine. Already had the block bored .40 over; can i use the stock rods with my new pistons? Along with a new toyota journal crank shaft from LCE.

Parts i have:
New lce crank shaft (toyota journal)1013036
4 new Stock Rods
4 new .40 pistons+ master kit from EB
new water pump
egr block off plates

Parts needed
header
head/cam/bolts
tc/oil/water bolts ( dunno what happened to them their just gone)
oem/felpro hg
3 a340h solenoids and a rad shifter (raddesigns)

 

yes as long as the LCE crankshaft is the toyota journal as you say.

pretty sure you will need different then stock bearings though. "We precision grind each crank to .25mm (.010") under size on both the main and rod journals. "

 

thought i would ask. Before i started to put the bottom end together.

 

just double check the bearings, I doubt stock sized bearings are gonna fit LCE's crank. Check with LCE.

 

why i didn't check before i ordered.

 

looks like you'd need .10 oversized main and rod bearings if I read their description right?

 

yeah i just went to their site and checked, i didn't order it from them i got it from a freind at his local shop

 

i know this isn't the classified's but if any of you have a stock crankshaft sitting around. don't mind selling it pm me

 

why not just get bearings for the crank you have? Looks like you might be fine with STD thrust washers though. You can get em from LCE or look for the .25mm sized rod and main bearings. I wouldn't get a crank from someone else unless you plan on having it checked/machined. The LCE crank you got is probably one of the better ones out there.

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...3-bf6061430967

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...5-8A06EE3E0ECC

 

i have 2 blocks. thought i'd go ahead and build both (dont wanna pay another 200+ for another crank) if somebody has a stocker. (i'll have it checked at the machine shop as well)

 

this is the one I have in my truck. 10,000 miles and no issues as of yet. $165 free shipping. Packaged well, just remember to clean off the anti-rust lube/grease with mineral oil before assembly. I plastigauged before assembly everything was within spec. I can't remember the manufacture off hand though. I wana say ITM, but not 100% sure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...Q5fAccessories

This is the direct link to their site, it's actually cheaper on their ebay listing. on sale right now I think. $152 on ebay $160 on their website.

http://www.japanengine.com/products/...&search=&page=

I think I saw a few used ones as well on ebay.

 

I got the block tore down. All the bolts removed from the tranny to block except one that wont turn just round off. Attempted to cut out with cut off tool no luck; so i took a RR spike to the cut and a BFH. went to finish taking out the block and it wont come back,out, but moves around *yes the mounts are off and exhaust*

 

pull harder? No, but in all seriousness, did you remove the torque converter bolts?

 

every bolt around the back is gone

 

on the drivers side where the bell housing and tranny bolt together. there is a bolt right behind one of the main bolts, i took it off. tried jacking up the blocck from bottom and pulling forward then winching up. still aint moving or even trying to seperate

 

will the block slide out though the tunnel with the tranny *backwards over the differential* plan: take off engn mounts from block, undo drive shafts and yank it out. i have a 2"bl and can raise up the cab more if i have to just wanted to know it a bare block with pan will go out backwards