Hello all
Rig: 91 22re 5 speed
After changing master and slave clutch cylinders i put the truck in gear and it only revs.
Also wheres the tranny filler nozzle.
a buddy suggested i might not have any fluid in the tranny, so im trying to check it
anyone have pics or any helpful advice ?
please and thank you

 

My guess is you got air in your clutch lines causing the clutch to not enguage.

The fill plug is a 6 sided ( 24mm ) bolt on the drivers side of the tranny, a few inches up.

Undo the bolt and stick your finger in there, if the fluid level is almost spilling out, you're good. If not, put some in there.

Make sure you have the proper GL4 fluid!

 

to bleed the clutch lines...pump the clutch quite a few times, hold it down, then open and close the bleeder valve on the slave righttt??
we did that at least 5 times, is that the proper sequence, just not enough times ??
and the biggest bolt i can find on the drivers side of the tranny is 18 mm.
im stuck

 

dumb question here but is your t-case in nuteral by mistake???

 

you gotta get all the air out of the lines

 

about how many times should it take ??
we just did it a couple more times.... no go

Jay is this the one you speak of???
And the t-case is in 2wd

 

yes thats where u fill it

 

I hate to tell you but your method for bleeding it is not going to work, or at least not the way I understand.

Heres what you need to do

1. Top off fluid reservoir
2. attach hose to bleeder valve and submerge in brake fluid
3. Open bleeder valve
4. Depress pedal
5. Close bleeder valve
6. Release Pedal completely
7. Repeat steps 3-6 until no more air bubbles appear in the brake fluid, keep an eye on the fluid in the reservoir.
8. Securely close bleeder valve, remove hose, top-off reservoir

Do that and you should be golden

 

Here is my ghetto do it alone (not just yourself lol) method.

Get a good sized bottle of brake fluid. Fill the reservoir to the TOP. Open the bleeder on the slave and just let the reservoir drain through the line naturally until the reservoir is about 1/2 full or so. If the old fluid looks kind of nasty I'll do it a few times to get all the old out (especially if there is water in the fluid, which you shouldn't have). I use a pan to catch it but I don't re-use it unless in a pinch. After that I find something that will hold the clutch as close to the floor as possible squished between the seat and the pedal. PUmp pump away, then put your stick etc. in there. Go open the bleeder for a second or so. Fill the reservoir whenever it gets close to a 1/4 full or so, don't let it empty. The seat will actually compensate for the loss of pressure to a point and not allow the bleeder to suck air back in as long as you tighten it back up will it is still squirting. I will repeat this process 7-8 times when alone, maybe 5 times with a friend. I find that the intial part where you let it gravity bleed/flush helps more than anything. It lets the bubbles leave naturally without having a bunch of pedal pressure to stir everything up. If you have a brand new clutch and you are slipping/revving I can't see it being more than a good bleeding, unless you forgot the pressure plate or something lol. Also I usually park my truck (when I had a 5speed/s auto now) on a slight incline, not steep but noticeable. The slave is a little further back on the chassis and lower so naturally it will help move air through the line a little easier.

Also what was your reason for doing the slave/master? I bought a 94 4cyl toy a while back for a donor truck that was said to have a bad clutch. Well the clutch was in great shape but we'd spin the input and nothing happened on the output end at all. My buddy unfortunately was the one that split the truck with me for that trans and he rebuilt it. I can't remember what was wrong, Im not too transmission smart lol.

 

I would have recommended bleeding the master on the bench first.
But if you want to get GHETTO, hook a piece of vacuum line between the clutch slave and a windshield washer spray nozzle. WHAT!!! The spray nozzles don't bleed back fluid. Thats right, hook up the vacuum line with the sprayer on the end and insert into a plastic catch bottle and pump the pedal. A one man job. Don't believe me, try it.

 

What does air have to do with his clutch not engaging? He says he puts it in gear and it just revs? Your clutch peddle is for disengagement. If he has it in gear it should be moving.

Sounds like your slave cylinder is stuck holding the clutch fork.

 

x2 or it could be the throw out bearing all worn out

 

Nice, ghetto power bleeder, I like it. I can't wait until I have a clutch to bleed

 

Haha, told you I wasn't an expert

 

oki stopped reading cause it pissed me off ok buddy i had the same probem you did....... this is how i fixed it first go under the truck on the pass. side have some one push the clutch pedal and you WATCH the fork on the trany see if it moves even if not then you have a over engaged slave take your had palm side and push like all heavens on that baby it should pop and go back in now try and not do that again and since everythings new, and installed like mine was you have to blead the master now so fill her up take a 10mm and have some one pump the clutch and hold crack that clutch line open on the master then tight then pump and so on and so on do that a few times then filler up and go for the slave do the same pump her up blead it and so on and so on then try it out again should be good now if not pm me and we can talk and see whats going on with her

 

i ended up doing the same thing you just said about 5 or 6 times
the fork is moving, the slave is getting what seems like good movement
its just revving
i ended up putting fluid in it
nothing
so
im guessing i need a new clutch
a few days back i called my dads friend in ST louis who gives us good prices on toy parts.
i think he said like 200 for the clutch kit
sounds like fun eh ?

 

make sure when your bleeding the system you keep the master cylinder topped off or you will get air in the lines. as far as the comment made about using only GL-4, it kinda hard to find just GL-4 fluid unless you go to a dealer. most of the gear oils from the auto part stores are GL-3, GL-4, and GL-5 combined and are save to use in manual trannys.

 

I dont understand what you are saying here. Just sounds like you are gravity bleeding it. maybe im wrong and cant understand you. please elaborate.

also keep in mind that is you replace the slave you should replace the master as well. they are usually a match set. I had a clutch that wouldn't disengage and it was because the master was not displacing enough fluid to the slave. Just a thought decided to throw it out there.