kfergiez

I know this is probably on another thread somewhere, but i can't find it. I've seen some MAF products that adapt your current MAF so that you can take out that bulky cleaner and put in a cold air intake, or something else. just wondering if anybody has any input on their preference on a certain product to do this? and do you still use the old MAF or do you buy a different style with the housing? I would like to cut down on the bulk of the air intake system and install a snorkel, but am stumped at how to do this with the current Air metering device.

iamsuperbleeder

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-95...Q5fAccessories

And they're all basically the same thing; here's my setup; obviously looks like the same adapter, I just have a shrouded filter on it with a universal 3" inlet



Works great BTW, but don't do it for HP gains... it would make things easier fo install a snorkle though. The hardest part is probably supporting the AFM and filter up once it's all done, so that it doesn't fall down and rub the intake on the PS pump pulley

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

yup, bleeder is right... only thing that i would note tho, is that there are no "cold air intake" kits for our truck...

you could do the ISR mod to clear up some of the engine bay, but the factory AFM (not MAF) completely strangles our motors...

anyways, the 10 dollar adapter from autozone or oriely should work just fine...

abecedarian

Speaking 22re here... I'm not sure how the fact afm strangles the engine. Through the little digging I've done, it appears to be the same one as the afm on the rte and somehow manages to flow enough air for that. Shortening the distance between the throttle and the meter by doing the afm / battery swap would probably pick up some throttle response though, as reported here by others who have done it.

874runnersr5

Good point abe, ive also been wanting to do a supra afm swap with a cold air? maybe that'd show some gain "somewhere" haha.

abecedarian

I think it'd be more imprtant to have the AFM that is for your engine able to react to air-flow changes as quickly as possible... so finding a way to rid yourself of that 3 feet or so of intake duct will move the AFM closer to the throttle plate allowing it to react sooner.
Going to a larger diameter AFM means the air velocity will slow down thus causing the AFM to experience delayed reactions to changes in air flow.

874runnersr5

hmm, that makes sense..
Im going to look into swaping the battery over/afm over.

Pretty much all i need is some 10guage wire and crimpers?

scuba

87runner, If your going to do the battery/intake swap just do a big 3 upgrade at the same time, Tis What I would have done.

abecedarian

where's the link to the "big 3 upgrade" you mentioned?

you say it's what you 'would have done'... so why didnt' you do it?

874runnersr5

ima search it up and see what i can find.

Junkers88

Your going to need some sort of connection tube and a couple of couplers. You'll also need a way to suspend the unit and secure it as well as track down a small filter that will work with the room that you have. Don't forget longer battery cables.

Mine.

ovrebo1

what do you do with that hose that runs into the stock air box once you put your cone filter on

xzyragon

if you do buy one, buy the aluminum, not the plastic one, as the holes have to be drilled to fit the bolts on the AFM. Although there are some there, they dont work, and there are dimples on the reverse side for drilling, but those are slightly off. The hardest part is getting it exact enough and not cutting into the side of the tubing. Its a tight fit.

Hardest part is mounting the sucker in the engine bay. I modded brackets that attached to the radiator and to the radiator support, and then made a cradle that supported it from underneath.

ovrebo1

I ended up just making my own

RMA

Wheres the pics.

ovrebo1

I'm guna paint it and make a mount for it some time this week. Sorry it's dark, but it's like 10:30pm and I don't feel like bustin out the halogen.

xzyragon