Toyotagirl555

Sorry if this is the wrong section.

Been looking into getting a Toyota pickup and I can't find (after searching) anything about their common failures. In other words, what should I be looking at when I'm inspecting the truck besides just any normal wear and tear. Do any gaskets tend to fail prematurely? Certain bearings go bad at x miles? Any certain years of the trucks that are known for parts failing etc?

Thanks,
Jenelle

Erik Beeman

What kind of Toyota? Regardless of what it is, MAKE SURE YOU CHECK COMPRESSION AND HEAD GASKET ON ANY 22RE! Those motors are known for blowing head gaskets, I've blown one as early as 160K miles, and seem them go for 220K before any problems. And like I tried telling my ex girlfriend......please, don't get a 3VZFE...aka the V6 motor...ha ha

yoterr

unmm the only well known failure is the toyotas 3.0 headgaskets, nothing els really, 22r has no real downfall other than being a little bit underpowered to some people, and check out the bodys GOOD for rust, they like to rust lol

mac9968

headgaskets, on both motors, but you sure get a feeling of ownership once you have it in pieces, and back together, and purring like a kitty. A great amont of confedence in know every part. It really is a hobby, more than a mode of transport.

MAC

Toyotagirl555

I'm not sure what kind of Toyota, I have a limit of $2,000. What is the best year I could get for that amount of money without buying junk (I'm from Washington). I'd prefer it to be an extended cab, and I really want it to be a 5speed transmission.

So to sum up what you guys said, stay away from the 6 cyl, look for rust (what area likes to get rusted first typically?), and last but not least, check compression and headgasket.

v6854runner

if i were you id get a 93 toyota pickup extended cab 4x4 for like 2 grand with no lift or goodys but it would be a nice buy

toyota4x4907

Since when are they "known for blowing head gaskets"? the 3vze is "known" for that. The 22r(e) is known for running on 2 cylinders with a rod through the block and less than a quart of oil on your 50 mile trip home. They have their head gasket problems (less than the 3vze) and are pretty easy to replace.

The 3vze is a good motor, never owned one, but good motor. Yes, the second gens (1990-'95) are pretty crappy, but the 1st gens only have like a 7-10% failure rate on the head gaskets. They take up a lot of room in the engine bay and people typically complain about not having enough room to work on them. The 22re is so easy to work on. In my opinion, the 3vze requires more preventative/ routine maintainence and might have a higher owners cost, and they are gas hogs (not saying my 22re is super fuel efficient ) good luck with the search!

Toyotagirl555

The truck will definitely be used for daily driving, no four wheeling. I forgot to say that 4x4 is also a requirement (for snow).

Thanks for all the quick replies!

kornhuskerwizard

i picked up a 88 & 87 trucks w 5spds and 22r for $600. I drive one and use the other for parts

mattaway

i'd sell you mine for $2,000! it's extended cab, 22re, 5 speed and 4x4.... but i live pretty far away

toyota4x4907

3vze: 3.0L v6 150 hp and 180ft/lbs of torque
problems with the 3vze: Head gaskets: Keep the cooling system in tip-top shape, never let it over heat and and keep oil changes up to date. If possible, get rid of the stock exhaust manifold design.
Burning #6 valves: Basically same as the HG
Gas hog: drive slower and not aggressive, get a manual.

22re: 2.4L i4 108-116 hp (year dependent) 142ft/lbs of torque
problems: timing chain guides: replace with metal backed ones when the factory plastic ones wear out
valve lash: easy fix every year.
head gasket: not as big a problem as the 3vze, but common. pretty easy fix.

WatsonToyota

are you looking for a daily driver or a hobby truck?? carefully look for rust on the ENTIRE frame, inspect around where the leaf springs attach to frame and where the cab mounts to the frame....on the body anywhere that gets "overspray" from tires, under the doors, the underside of the bed, behind left rear tire where exhaust pipe sticks out...also, make sure when you pop the hood you see a red "22RE" sticker on the front of the motor

Erik Beeman

Since always.

peow130

If you go after a toyota up here, be sure to check out the CV's and the CV bushings. I had a bushing dry out on my during last years snowstorm...
And since she said she lives in washington, frame rust is minimal up here. We don't live in the rust belt...

Toyotagirl555

Sweet, I feel well informed, and I will post up pictures of the truck when I find a good one.

Thanks again guys

Erik Beeman

Post up pictures of you too. Chicks that drive Toyota's are hot.

WatsonToyota

still check the frame who knows where the vehicle has "lived" or how the previous owners treated it

v6854runner

yeah it might look like its just a lil bit of rust but sometimes its really eaten up and then your gonna have to start fabin some metal up for your frame and thats alot of work and you wouldnt want to do that

peow130

I'm not saying to not check the frame, i'm just saying there is ALOT less rust up here.
I could go take a picture of my IFS A-Arms that still have the stock black paint on them lol.

sundog kid

As someone who just bought a 94 V6 ext cab 4wd, I can give you a good idea what to expect from a former non toyota person. (i.m.o.)

First off, with any import, I always look for the rust, and there will always be some if the owner was on top of it. Look at the rocker panels, fenders, quarter panels (box sides) inner fenders, and get underneath, inspect the cab for rust. if you see some rust, dont be shy, smack it with your fist of a mallet. if it exposes carpet, walk away! lol

check the shocks. are they falling off? can you move the back ones side to side?

Check the bushings and boots for all the front end - most people do not change any front end parts until there is an obvious issue. because of this, there may be ripped boots and deteriorating bushings, that the P.O. didnt know, or didnt fix, that wont pass an inspection.

check the engine for signs of leaking/seaping. Is there grease/oil all over? are the fluids the right color and are they full? does it look like the P.O. washed and dolled up the engine bay to sell the truck? Thats usually a sign of covering up something (very rarely does anyone go through the task of that much cleaning on a 2k vehicle)

The Test Drive

-Did it start with ease?
-Does it idle at a contant rpm, preferably around 1000 when cold?
-is there any squallin or whining from the belts?
-is the exhaust quiet and uniform in note? (oem exhaust setups are very low noise and very car like Ive noticed)
-does the clutch move in and out with no sense of grinding?
-does the brake feel taught? with no loose pedal feel?
-rev it to 3000 rpm - does it studder or back fire, will it hold 3000 rpm consistantly without adjusting your foot?
-while parked, clutch in, go through the gears. Does it feel tight and can you gear with ease, and no hang ups?

While driving, is there alot of play in the steering wheel? can you steer with one hand, or does it feel stiff and underpowered? Look for wobbles, shimmys, and chatter while turning corners. does it brake uniformly, without pulsing? At speed 60mph/100kph, does it drive straight, no major vibrations, or noise?

ask for history on where and when parts were replaced. make sure to ask for the reciepts also if they have them. ask if its been to a dealership lately. be critical.

My truck had 300 000 km's on it when i bought it, and needed an inspection. Because I thoroughly looked over the truck, I passed my Out Of Province inspection, with only investing $500 in parts, and about 5 full days of my own labour.

Good luck!

(all opinions above are strictly based on my own personal experiences with used cars and my toy!)