im from Wisconsin,and Id have to say keep lookin! I guarantee that frame is rotted out.keep in mind that aroun dhere its usually around the reaf inside framerails around the gas tank.your biggest problem is rust,if the underside looks like the rest,that e-brake will be the last of your problems.theyre out there...patience.

 

Yes, loud FPR is normal with these old engines. No issues, just loud. Best parts are DENSO parts and OEM parts from Toyota. For non-electronic parts, Rock Auto is good.


Avoid Auto's. The transmissions will start to fail around 200k-250k miles and they are SLOW. They are the ones that coined the phrase 3.SLO. But if that's all you got and can afford, I guess it will do.

 

I would call them a passionate gear head. And talented.

 

I agree with this. I grew up in MI and brought two different rust belt cars west. Electrical issues, seized up parking brakes are standard, rust holes in body, bolt threads too rusted to get out... PITA.

If all you want is a short cab hilux with manual hubs, Colorado is lousy with those things. I'm too tall to be comfortable in a short cab so I had to hold out to find an xtra cab in decent shape. But when I was looking you couldn't swing a dead cat on craigslist without slapping a short cab hilux...

If I were going to specifically target a state to shop for a toy, I'd probably go with ABQ, NM. The AZ towns like Tucson and Phoenix are drier, but it's also so damn hot there that paint is usually more worked than usual and dashboards and stuff can be cracked. NM or West Texas...

Good excuse to take a little trip and drive your new rig through the mtns.

 

If I could get it for 700$ and the frame itself was sound, I'd drive the piss out of it.

I like the way it looks,my 3.0 isn't that bad, gas sucks tho in town. I'd get it.

All you basically want is something you can take to the trails and beat on? This fits.

Also, my ebreak is broken too. Lol. Same issue. Snapped at the rear.

 

And depending...you might have the ADD 4*4 system. Its controlled by vacumn.

 

This would be a project truck for me. I have 2 other vehicles to use for DR purposes so if it's out for awhile I would be ok.

But from what I'm thinking and my uses for it, I'm going to buy it. Just wanted to really know how bad this follower tick was and if it was something I should stay wary of. My cousin had a pickup with the 22re motor and loved it. Just had no background on the 3vze. I will post back up when I got to get it. With the holiday it's causing some issues with the current owner and appointment setup.

Thanks all!

 

I think we've all been there. I'd buy it.

The 3.0 isn't that bad. It is slow but if its a trail rig, who cares. Lol. The rust could be an issue but as long as the frame is sound, I'd see no problems. Especially if you plan of fixing it at a later date.

Good luck.

 

so I am going to look at it today.


list of things to check.


1) oil in the antifreeze.
2) try to track down the source of the tick.
3) frame rust
4) ? anything else I should be aware of?


thanks!

 

You see how all the cheap ones out there are 3.0's? Think about it. People dont sell them with the 22r or re. They keep them.

Be patient. You can avoid a nightmare before it starts. Choose to be patient and hold out for a 22r/re.

You will thank me for years to come if you listen.

Otherwise a premptive "I told you so" is in order.

I see 4-5 threads a week here....where some guy has bought a 3.0 and it has issues...turns out to be head gasket....then they disappear forever after a 3 page thread full of disassembly pictures.

Dont be that guy.

 

Eh, I'll take my chances if all else checks out. Even if this takes a full rebuild, I don't mind. Part of the fun of it all.

 

There is nothing fun about a 3.0 rebuild.

Im just trying to help...nothing for me to gain whatsoever.

It's like warning a freind the girl he wants to date has herpes....but he just thinks you are BLEEP blocking him.

Dont let Toyota fever overide the voice of reason. (spock would say that...and of course he would drive a Toyota 22re. Its only logical.)

 

I respectively don't agree with your premise. And, couldn't pass the opportunity to raise my hand as one of those guys I purchased a 23 years old 3.0 4runner, I started from the head job and ended up doing a whole engine rebuild. And finally today I may just finish and be able to start it. Here is everything nearly back in.

After some cosmetic work inside and out it will end up costing me about $5k, which in my mind is a great deal for a 'rebuilt' car.

Of course, I'm not stupid and I agree that it can get overwhelming for some...

Cheers

PS: I have one of those disassembling threads to!

 

Lol, at least you're funny man

I'd do the 3.0 rebuild again knowing what I know now...

I think with some small modifications to keep the engine bay cooler a rebuild will last another 100k miles easy.

 

The 3.0 is a problem child. If you have an initial 1k to drop into it, I'd buy it. Get the gaskets done and play around.

If this is not gonna be your dd,have fun.

I've got a 3.0 and like it. I've got a rad leak but that's it so far.

 

This truck may see 20 miles a week just to keep the fluids moving. Off Road maybe 4 times a year. In all this will be a fun/project truck. Works for me

 

Sounds good. Post results.

Have you gotten it yet?

 

Didn't buy the truck. The "tick" was more of a bomb going off every second. No thanks.

 

Then find another one.