$295 where else can i buy them?

 

awesome write up. I just placed my order today.

 

good wright up! but next time just weld the rear, it makes less noise around turns (from the diff anyways) and doesn't make any noise going strait, tire wear isn't much worse then the locker and off road traction can not be improved!! after having two pickups, at the same time, one with the lock right and one with a welded diff i will never spend money on a locker again... i did have the lock right disengage a few time when i needed it.

 

I keep hearing about how lockers wear your tires more frequently.
Is there anyone that has a locker in a daily driver can tell me how many miles they've gotten off a set of tires?

 

did any one make a write up for the front locker? the PWT-1611-LR

i just bought the front and rear lockers for $517

 

Nice post and great pics. I love the smell of gear oil!

 

ive actually removed and put back the 3rd member in my dads 89 2 times and altho the original poster did excillent on showing how to do this and all there is one thing that he did that i didnt have to do. That is disconnect the brake lines , i just unbolted the holding brackets for the brake lines and then i pulled out the axles just slightly but anyways good work man!

 

jij to answer your question as far as i know as long as you dont weld the spiders then no they dont wear any more then a open diff, I believe this is so because the way MOST lockers are designed they actually allow the inner tirer on whatever way your turning turn faster then the outter. I know thats how my dads detriot is at least.

 

welding a v6 rear is harder than you think. Its not as easy as a 4cly.

 

GREAT WRITEUP!!!!
Nice work!

 

best price I've found for a lockright is at rocky road outfitters mine was about 250 shipped for a 4 pinion v6 third.

also, thanks to the OP for posting this. Referenced it at least a few times while doing my install,the pics really came in handy.

 

I bought mine off of just differentials ebay site for 248.70

 

ok so i finished installing the locker tonight. I ran into a small problem with the adjuster retainer or whatever. I labeled one side of the retainer but screwed up and didnt label the other. I took my time upon reinstallation for these parts to make sure every thing was snug. Should I be worried?

 

Did you go back and measure the backlash? I bet the carrier bearing preload can be off a tiny bit but if you eff up the backlash your rear end will quickly turn to mush. Or so I hear.

 

Thanks for the write up.. Just bought a 97 runner, want to do this. SOON

 

I did that once...it's nice not having to break the hydro line open and make a mess of everything. You have to slide the axles out about 3 inches(take the drum off so the excess weight is not resting on the poor seals) so you don't want to stress or straighten out the bends in the lines too much...and you can address that issue by removing all the little brake clamps on the rear housing. The steel lines will be more resilient/flexible that way
ZUK

 

Great write up. I hope it helps me when I install my lockright this week. It's sitting on the work bench, I am just waiting for a day off.

 

Note: Make sure you are gentle because there is a round spring in the seal that can pop off. Look behind the seal with a flashlight to make sure this spring did not pop out.

James

 

what do you mean by rattling?

 

This post helped me alot! I just finished my aussie locker install with the help of this thread. the only thing i was concerned about was the backlash, but i feel i did everything right- using a dial indicator to check everything... came out with .008 backlash, went in with .010 backlash.... every bolt i took out has threadlock, and initial unlock test worked! hurray for me