bigredj87

This might be a stupid question. I have a 87 runner, with auto hubs. When in I put it in 4-hi and start to spin, I end up only spinning one rear wheel, conviently the one with the least traction. It still does it when I put it in 4-lo. Is there something not working right, or do I just need a set of lockers, I'm new to the off-road world, and I'm not real sure what lockers, uh..lock? Also I'm hoping upgrade to manual hubs for christmas.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

dcg9381

Welcome to the world of the open differential. The wheel with the least traction will always spin.
You need a locker or a limited slip differential.. There are lots of options available for the toyota and they make a big difference.

rdlsz24

Is an LSD more livable for everyday driving? I've heard that lockers are kinda harsh when turning on paved surfaces.

Rob

cruisinforburgers

I agree with the Locker comment, also change out those auto hubs! GARBAGE! LOL! if you can find a set of toyota manual ones at the junk yard or on e-bay you'll be set. there is a tech forum on doing the swap listed on here or pirate off road.
and welcome to "Oh what a feelin" Land! LOL!

Merry Holidays!
Rick

InternetRoadkill

The LSD will be friendlier for DD.

The detroit locker is not too bad for street use and is a very durable unit. But you do know it's there when you turn a sharp corner. (a light klunk.) But that's the only time you'll really notice it on the street. Just be careful on ice with these or any other locking diff.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Big Red - I will have a set of manual hubs here soon, all cleaned up and ready to go. PM me if you're interested.

BTW, in the "off-road tech section" there's a sticky called "locker FAQ" or something, check that out.

bigredj87

another question of mine is, shouldn't the front wheels spin to if its in 4 hi or low?

amgraham

Yeah, the fronts should spin when in 4 hi or low. The auto hubs probably aren't locking. Like everyone else said do yourself a favor and get manual hubs asap.

On the locker I DD my 87 4Runner with an Aussie Locker in the rear. It was the cheapest one ($260 shipped) and pretty easy to install. After it broke in (took a week or 2) it is very smooth and predictable. The main things are it clicks when you turn so people are always saying "dude, something's broke in your rear axle!" and if you stomp down on it pulling out in traffic or whatever it will chirp the tires. I like it though. Since I ditched my swaybars I don't need to be hammering it in turns anyway It's all in what you want to use your truck for.

Good luck man! Merry Christmas!

dcg9381

Lockers are harsh - at least the lunchbox and always-engaged mechanical type.
You can get selectable lockers if you're willing to foot the bill - both ARB and Toyota make selectable lockers. You're looking at $500-$1200 though.

Elton

i like my e-locker its there when you need it by a simple push of the button

Mister Willie

I don't know if I'm missing something, but, I thought Auto hubs were just plates that were always locked. If thats the case, either your auto hubs have broken so the CV's aren't engaged or something further in like the front diff isn't being engaged.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Nope, Auto hubs automatically lock when you switch to 4WD but do not stay locked in reverse, thus the reason they SUCK. You want to switch to manual hubs.

There is TONS of information all over the web on the variety of Aisin hubs on Toyotas from how to rebuild them as to what the differences are in the types.

Mister Willie

OK I guess I was mixed up between ADD and "Auto" hubs.

I thought Auto hubs were on like old old trucks

misterzee

Auto locking hubs showed up on the SR5 Yotas in the 80s, as a precursor to the ADD system. My old (70s-80s-90s) Chevy and Ford pickups had "auto-locking-hubs" as well. They engaged when you went into 4WD, and when you were done, you had to back up 30 feet to get them to drop out.

bigredj87

So when in four wheel drive, with the manual hubs (i'm hopin to get for christmas), both front wheels shoud spin, all the time, right?, and to make both back wheels spin all the time I need to get a locker.

neilan

no one will spin all the itme both sometimes if there is traction. One wheel in the front will spin if it loses traction just like the back will. To solve this a front locker or limited would have to be installed too. This is a whole new argument though as lockers in th front *may* (some might disagree) harder to turn sharp cornes, excesive tire wear and breakage of cv axles. But it is the same concept as the rear. Most peopel go with just a rear locker when starting out. But even with just the rear locked and open in the front the difference is huge.

bigredj87

I sure am glad i found this site, or else i would just be wandering around in the dark. thanks for all the great info.

SwampThing

Lockers are great and all, but when you can have your's welded for a case of beer, I say do it to it! May be a little harsh on the tires, but it's dirt cheap, 100% effective, and did I mention cheap? Just don't weld your front diff. Makes it VERY hard for street driving. Believe me, I speak from experience. Thank god for junk yards lol.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

One drawback of auto hubs is that the wheel needs to turn a bit in order for them to lock up. However, if you are already stuck and shift into 4WD to get out and can't move, the front hubs may not turn enough to lock and so you are stuck in 2WD. So with auto hubs, you always should engage 4WD before you think you may need it, or replace them w/ more reliable manual hubs:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/autohub/

jjrgr21

check your local junk yard for a wrecked TRD w/e-locker, theres one local to me, for $300, then you have a selectable for the same price as a lunchbox.

to everyone else, if i were to switch from auto hubs to manual, is it a drop in part or what? my 98 taco had manual hubs and were easy to take out and stuff , but what would i have to do the switch the auto-manual?