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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 09:13 PM
  #81  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Yup its pretty cool that they let me borrow them too. He told me that one was $150. Ouch! Glad I didnt break it. lol
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:41 PM
  #82  
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From: Miami, Florida
Thats blue point baby.. isnt that the same as snap on?
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 11:08 AM
  #83  
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wow dude, that is way worse than i thought it was... your workin really fast though, i'm sure you'll get it! i wanna see it out on the trails again! though i would recomend checking out the crankcase, it might need some tlc.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 06:22 PM
  #84  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Originally Posted by coolthew
though i would recomend checking out the crankcase, it might need some tlc.
Do you know something I dont? lolol
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #85  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Spent a little time outside tonight. Not much done. Took the water pump off. Looks pretty clean inside compared to other engines I have disasembled.


T-stat dont look bad but they are cheap insurance.


Number 1 piston was the only that I could see had a problem.


Here you can see where the edge of the gasket was hitting the piston.




Tried to clean up the block a little.




I need some tips on what to do to try to get the block prepped. After I did it I realized I probably should'nt have used a paint scraper/chisel. But scotch brite is okay right? What do you guys recommend?
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 01:06 AM
  #86  
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before doing anything, shove rags into any and EVERY water and oil passage inthe block... it would suck to have some small debris fall into one of them and end up costing you a rebuild...
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by toylocost
Do you know something I dont? lolol
hahaha! no, just paranoid, thats all.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 07:18 PM
  #88  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Originally Posted by toylocost
I need some tips on what to do to try to get the block prepped. After I did it I realized I probably should'nt have used a paint scraper/chisel. But scotch brite is okay right? What do you guys recommend?
Anybody?

Originally Posted by space-junk
before doing anything, shove rags into any and EVERY water and oil passage inthe block... it would suck to have some small debris fall into one of them and end up costing you a rebuild...
I had a vacuum over the scraper so I dont think much went in but if I miss a rag its gonna suck. lol

ENGNBLDR stuff should be here tomorrow. I found a machine shop near where I work and I asked them how much to resurface the heads, they said $35 per head. Is that good/bad? I know they do good work because we use them at work. Is there anything else I should have them do? I was gonna ask them to check the exhaust manifold surface to make sure its straight.

And the worst question for me... Should I buy a new knock sensor? 143 bucks from Toyota. Gayness. I figure it worked before why not after? Plus I dont plan on running this engine for another 100k. Doubt it'll even make another 30k.

Last edited by toylocost; Jul 8, 2009 at 07:34 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 05:58 PM
  #89  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
ENGNBLDR stuff is here. Yay! I think I might have to wait for my next paycheck to have the heads resurfaced and start putting things back together though.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 06:11 PM
  #90  
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From: kick yer face
most often its the wire for the knock sensor that goes, so i'd replace that not the sensor. I usually go with a scotch brite pad to clean the block.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 06:16 PM
  #91  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Originally Posted by vital22re
most often its the wire for the knock sensor that goes, so i'd replace that not the sensor. I usually go with a scotch brite pad to clean the block.
Hey thanks man.

Ill probly get one of those rotary scotch brite pads for my drill. That should do it.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 06:35 PM
  #92  
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From: kick yer face
thats what i do.. but be carful!! dont sit in one place too long, you dont wanna burn a hole.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 11:52 PM
  #93  
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burn a hole in the block??? weird... never heard of that before... at least not with a scotch brite pad...
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 02:57 PM
  #94  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
I think he just means it will make an impression in the block. The scotch brite will take steel if you stay in one place too long.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 08:11 PM
  #95  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
So I'm gonna take the heads in in the next couple days. What do yall think I should have done to them?

Hot tanked?
Check and resurface both sides(head and exhaust)?
Have the valves taken out and cleaned? I dont know what thats called?
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 09:12 PM
  #96  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.


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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 04:53 AM
  #97  
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she sure is purty
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 06:42 PM
  #98  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
...purty nasty
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 07:24 PM
  #99  
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From: quesnel b.c Canada
how do the valves look? your slowly inspiring me to pull the top end off of my 3.0 so i can fix a burnt valve. Any rough estimate how long it takes to get the heads off your first time?
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 08:11 PM
  #100  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Well that picture of the valves is all I've seen of them. The other side looks the same.

Fist time taking this apart for me was 14 to 15 hours all-together. I'm 18 with a very mechanical background, but have only been working on cars for 3 to 4 years. I dont know much, but I have done a head gasket on a 22re before. I dont know your background but once you get into it you find the "bad stuff" isnt too bad. You'll figure it out.
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