I'm doing my first oil change on my 88 running a 22re. Former owner informed me he has been running NAPA 10-40 in it and I'm considering switching to an oil with more ZDDP such as T6. I would love to hear your guy's thoughts on whether or not the switch is a good idea or not. I've done some searching and my biggest concern is that a couple of people have mentioned that it does not do a very good job of reducing chain wear and some even mentioned chain breaks shortly after switching. Also I was told that the YZDD3 oil filter from the V8 toyota engines is a great filter for our 22re's. Can anyone confirm this?

P.S. Before anyone jumps down my throat about searching...I did. There are only 2 threads about this with very few opinions.

 

Don't know about the tundra oil filter but I run a ford 460ci truck filter. direct fit and 2x the capacity of the 22r/re filter. I have a remote filter/oil cooler so I don't have to worry about wether the filter has the anti drain back valve (or whatever) and I don't get oil down the side of the block. the 460 filter will go directly on the block though. Don't know about the oil, I run redline in my truck and love it. The best is putting the MT-90 in the manual trans, shifts like butter and quiets down older trans.

 

Your 22re is very tolerant of oil types, thicknesses, etc. Run what is on sale in a 30 or 40wt. Use any filter that fits.

But yes if you want to spend some money T6 is fantastic oil and will protect well. That is what I am currently running along with an oversized filter.

 

How many miles do you have clocked on your engine? Have you been running it since its inception?

 

I ran dino oil from day 1, Oct 1987. then a few years ago went to a syn blend, now Rotella T6, all is good. Toyota filters only. 280k +-.

 

If you can't get the T6, the Dello 5W-40 Synthetic works just as well and is the same price. I also run the Purolator HP30001 Oil filter also. This is all on a turbocharged 22RE.

 

About 40k on the engine. I've used Amsoil, T6, Delvac 1300, and Valvoline Maxlife all in 40wt.

 

Well I was under the impression that the PO was running synthetic but after double checking with him I now know that it was indeed conventional. I'm worried now that if I switch to synthetic she's going to start pissing oil.

 

It won't. If it does its not the oils fault. All conventional oil is part synthetic now anyway to hit SN API ratings.

 

Well costco had 3 gallons of delo 400 le for 31 bucks on sale. Anybody running it?

 

Not a bad idea; not a good idea...anybody's appropriately API rated 10-30, 10-40, or 5-30 winter cold climate will do just fine. My '89 175,000 mile runs great no smoke, no oil consumption issues. Right now it has 3 qt of Shell 10-30 I got on sale for $0.49/qt six or seven years ago, and a qt of SuperTech 10-30. Last change before that was WallyWorld Super-Tech 10-30 full synth (winter). Before that was 3 qt Chevron 10-30 and a quart of Shell 5-20. Before that was Chevron or Shell 10-30...I got several cases on sale at $0.49/qt when they were closing out the previous latest greatest API for most cars...NAPA (Wix) or Toyota filters, Once in a while Purolator. Change filters every couple of years...I heard that a used filter actually filters better than a new one, and doesn't send new manufacturing debris into the system...

 

I find that last part hard to believe. Any source?

 

I will make sure to never take your advice in the future. This is the most ignorant post I've heard in a while...

 

Do your BITOG research before accusations. Everything JJ said is right on the money. Filters do become more efficient as they load up. True for oil and air filters.

 

They may filter more but flow less, or they may become so clogged they just get bypassed altogether. How is that good?

Sometimes things in theory are just that...good in theory.

 

I'm sorry, but there's no way that's true. Particularly if your definition of efficiency is a function of particles filtered and flow rate.

 

that's what I run... it tests very high(relative to other oils), in zddp and such.

I ran wire mesh filters on other motors for well over a decade... it's true that they filter finer particles as they clog up, but at some point the filter will present too much resistance to flow, and the filter will be going into bypass mode more often... not what you want.

motor oil doesn't wear out, it just gets dirty, and the additives wear out... an old filter will have some of those worn out additives in it, I think i'd rather be using fresh oil in there instead.

if you want finer filtering, screw on an adapter for a remote filter, and look at your mesh filtering options.

 

Of course there's a point of trade off. But generally filters are underutilized. Cut one open and decide for yourself. I regularly run standard filters to 10k and better ones (like Mobil 1) to 15k. The media is not overloaded.

 

this is what I used to run, I ran it for probably over 80k miles, not with toyotas:
http://obergfilters.com/faq.html#faq2

blow out the mesh media with carb cleaner, onto a newspaper, the carb cleaner dries immediately, and you can see exactly what the motor is doing... imho, the particles are pretty small to visually judge the density, when they are captured in paper media... paper filters don't have bypass indicators, so you have no way of knowing when it's filtering and when it's bypassing... high filtering efficiency = more resistance to flow, period.

on the other hand, long change intervals with synthetic oils and paper filters have proven results... and based on all the particles that I've looked at over the years, that giant PL30001 filter is going to take awhile to load up.

 

Ended up going with a YZZD3 denso filter and Delo 400 LE. Motor seems to be happy so far.