I wired a kill switch to the fuel pump today and hide it in my 4runner, I can turn it on and off and hear the fuel pump turn on and off when the engine is off and I think cool it works, So just to see how long it takes to run out of gas or how far someone could actually get with it I turn on the switch and it turns off the fuel pump and I go drive it. Take a 15 minute drive and come all the way back to my house and it is still running? WTF, why would it keep running if the fuel pump is off? I did have some codes one was a 14 and the other 26. I reset the ecu and the 14 went away, but it would start to give me the code while it was running and then stop and start blinking steady like everything was ok and then try to give me the code especially when I rev it up a little. I don't know if these are related at all or not, I was thinking the 26 air fuel ratio was coming up because I think I need a new o2 sensor, but I could be wrong? Anyone have any suggestions about the kill switch?

 

how did you wire the switch to the pump wiring?

 

It was already wired for it, but I didn't know that until I pulled the cover off, the tapped into the positive wire coming off the pump and ran a wire. I extended the wire and put my switch on and tried it and it turns on and off.

 

if im understanging you, i believe all that lead that you tapped into is just a manual override to turn it on or off, i dont think you are actually cutting the power. you need to switch the positive that comes from the battery, or relay.

 

I see what you are saying, where and how do I tap into the relay?

 

you will have to ask someone else on here for that. never messed with it. im sure its in the manual somewhere. but you shouldnt have to tap into the relay, just find the positive wire that is actually feeding the pump with power, if you have a hard time finding it a voltage meter will help right quick and in a hurry.

 

anyone else wire one and know where I need to wire the switch to?

 

i told you, if you will find the positive wire supplying the pump with power, cut it, take a wire from the end coming from the relay, wire it to one end of the switch, wire another on the other end of the switch and take it back to the pump. thats it.

 

if all you did was tap the wire...
ghetto solution:
disconnect the power wire to your switch, not the one to the pump...
run a second wire along with the first, from the switch to the pump...
tap that into the fuel pump wire near the first, then cut the fuel pump wire between your two taps
so the voltage path goes from the wire to the fuel pump, to your switch then back to the fuel pump...

 

Clean kill switch install;

From the air-flow meter, cut the Green/Yellow wire. It supplies the ground to the fuel Circuit Opening relay, which in turn controls the fuel pump. The truck will crank and start, but stall out almost immediately. By the noise of it starting and restarting may give you enough time to act, or at least call the police.

 

Good tecnique Nolts. I'll have to find that wire and install a kill switch. I've been wanting one anyway.

Thanks, Phil

 

On my '91(22RE)truck, the fuel pump power line is a blue wire under the pass seat. This is the wire between the relay(near/in the computer) and the pump itself. I cut it, installed switch under seat, works great always. Simple. Great if you want the kill switch in the 'under-the-passenger-seat' area. I rarely use it, but I'm glad i have it.

 

phildelfino thanks man thats what I needed I will do this tomorrow and let you know how it goes. I tried the method that abcedian suggested, but it didn't do anything like the way I tried before, but thanks for the advice. I did find something weird though the wire that the po had coming from the fuel pump under the rear seat went up to the harness under the kick panel on the drivers side, I think he had it going to his pos alarm that was on the 4runner when I got it and I took off. Anyway I could always hear the pump running if I had the key turned and the engine off(listening to the radio) and then after 10-15 minutes I would start it and it would act rich like it had got to much gas or something and this was after driving it and parking not the first start of the day . Now since I disconnected the wire the po had going to it and patch the stock wiring up I can only hear the pump running when the engine is on and not when the key is just turned with the engine off, and now it doesn't start funny after leaving the ignition on for 10-15 minutes. Anyway I found it weird, but I will wire up the new switch tomorrow thanks for the help everyone, keep you posted!

 

sorry, meant to say thanks to noltz, didn't see the quote at first, thanks man!

 

NP! I'll be doing it on mine this weekend.

 

Hehe, when I park in a bad area, I remove my coil wire and take it with me.. I have also been known to remove my intake ( 4 band clamps and its off) if I want to make 100% sure they won't be able to drive my truck away..

Its free

 

yeah I still pull my coil wire sometimes, can't wait to get this done it will make me feel a little better when I leave it in the parking lot!

 

yeah, no kidding eh.

Im just getting a imobilizer installed. There is a VERY good one a local company sells for about 200 bucks.. I can't for the life of me remember the name though

 

if you have the sr5 with the tilt and roll gauge on the dash use the light switch on that for a kill switch and run it to the key start input on the ecu with out that the ecu wont turn on and with out that well you get the point

 

He's so good, you can't even find HIM, nevermind the switch