Here todays progress:

I got the rear coils changed out, the fuel filter installed, all 4 shocks replaced, and the stock exhaust is all the way out now.

Here is a pictorial - OF THE TOYOTA!~~

Step 1 - Lift rear of truck


Step 2 - Compress spring


Step 3 - Compare springs (the new ones are shorter, they are by MOOG)


Step 4 - Compress springs again


Step 5 - Use 2 hands and 2 ratchets for "nascar-like" speed


Step 6 - Add shocks and feel content


Step 7 - After shot of 4runner with no saggy ass - I forgot to measure SO hopefully i don't have a saggy ass anymore - hard to tell still without a drive train to weigh down the front


Tip 1 - AntiSeize on all components - I also antiseized the spring compressors!


I also ripped the stock exhaust out since it was in my way - well, visually anyways!




Well, I am about ready for my motor, I will install the deck tomorrow and put my dash back together. That reminds me, I need to send my speaker to BUMPIN for a custom glass job

Other than some touch ups, I think that I am ready for my engine. I have some woodworking projects to work on this weekend and packing my house to leave.

Kat

 

If you TRULY wanted "nascar-like" speed with your spring compressors, you'd have used that AirCat on 'em...

 

Hello Kat...Nice job on your rig..FYI... I found some good prices on original toyota parts from www.toyotapartsales.com. If you need anything else. They are located in Dallas,TX. I KNOW YOU ALREADY PURCHASED THESE ITEMS but here are a few examples of their prices. Knock sensor=$114.15. KS wire=$7.63..Good luck in finishing your ride.

 

Read UP, mike....

 

read up mike lol ahhh yep may want to start at the begining

 

Hey Kat.. your rig looks kinda like mine (tippy) today.... Cept I was ripping out the coils. LOL

Looking good girl!

 

No saggy ass that I can see, the 4runner looks great now too.

 

Worked on getting the interior together for a while today. I got the deck installed and I worked on fabricating some mounts for the 5 1/4" speakers I want to run in the stock dash location. The set I have is spec'd to have a 4" midrange, however mine measures 5 1/4" . No big deal. I wanted to beef up the factory location anyways.

I did not want to cut the doors(I will for the tweets). So I am having Bumpin' build some kicks for my Midbass 6 3/4's. I am sure he will build em plenty strong to handle some 200 watts.

I will let the pictures do the rest of the talking... There is huge room in there once you get those little "boxes" out of the way. Props to toyota for the effort.

I have to route my hole for the driver this week sometime - My router was at the rental house or I would have hooked it up. The driver one took a lot of work to get it flush.

Throw up any questions if you have any.

Kat

 

hey that is a great idea for your components, great way to keep a factory interior. i am afraid it may not sound great though; i tried doing something similar, but ended up building out the doors with some mdf. the farther you separate the components, the worse they sound; especially with the midrange pointing at your feet. i would be happy to take some pictures of my doors if you care to take a look; i think something similar would be great with your midbass in the kick, and keep a very good sound image.

 

Why dont you go ahead and post your pictures -- idea's are always welcome!

I am not competing in SQ or anything, so I hope they will perform well enough for me -- If not, like you said, I can change something else and nothing is lost.

Thanks!

Kat

 

That is a sick-@$$ radio! I love it!

By the way; the pics look like you cut the BACK off your speaker enclosures?? If so, that will ruin your sound...they are sealed for a reason.

Great thread, Katie. I look forward to seeing what you've done each day. Pics are the bomb!

 

well the way I see it, those boxes were sealed in order to gain midbass response from the drivers. I have a separate midbass driver going in the kicks and am only pulling midrange from these guys. I would not be able to mount these without cutting/replacing them. I only cut the driver's side one in order to keep it easy to mount. The passenger one is replaced with MDF.

 

yea once you have the kicks in there you will be able to tell a big differance

 

I understand your rationale, but you introduce unwanted rear-phased reflections with an open back. Plus, an open enclosure (is that an oxymoron?) tends to let your speaker excursion go beyond the ability of the speaker (you can push more watts into enclosed speakers because the pressure of the enclosure helps prevent them from over-excursing) (is that a word?!?). Oh well, I guess it's a moot point now, isn't it?!?

 

well, here's what i have. i put midbass in the kicks too, but if i had known i was going to do this i would build them into the door also.

 

toy power: are those crossovers next to your speakers? Also, your avatar had me busting a gut!! hhahahahahaha!

 

yea, i put them there to lessen the amount of wire to run from the amps. that picture cracks me up too. although i wonder how many people even know where that came from. ice ice baby.

 

Toypower- How did you attach them to the panel? I assume you cut as small of a hole as you could in the door/door panel to make it work?
Did you dampen your doors at all?


I am looking at the braxial mount to put my tweeter on the midbass driver on the kick - I am thinking maybe if all of my sound image is low that I can use the head unit to raise it up?

 

If you're using a tweeter/mid-bass component pair with crossover, locate your tweeters in the dash below the window. I have had mine there for years and it really brings the soundstage up to you. Reflects perfectly off the window. I just velcroed mine in place. People don't even notice them.

 

The speakers are attached to the piece of mdf. i positioned the midrange driver so that i did not have to cut up any of the door frame. the door panel, on the other hand, was cutout behind the midrange driver, and holes for wires were drilled behind the tweet and crossover. just to clarify- are you using just a component set (tweets and midrange) or are you adding a midbass driver in the kick also? i am confused by mounting the tweet on the driver in the kick. basically, i think that if you don't want to build out the door, or just want to keep the inside factory, finish your speaker in dash plans. however, there will be no way around the poor acoustics resulting from the midrange pointing at your feet, and a midbass in the kick kind of eliminates a factory appearing interior, and with both a midbass driver and tweet angled directly at you, the midrange speaker will really suffer. i really hope i could offer some useful help.