justinking060310

OK - first and foremost - this thread is useless without pictures! This i know, and i will get them up in the next week or two(my house burned down and the HD that has the pics is not in my possession)- but i will get them up!

Currently the motor is torn down to the short block and still needs to be cleaned! the plan is to use 2" roloc's

I am working off of this FSM:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

I already have:
Head bolts from Ted at ENGNBLDR (great guy)
Rock Gasket kit from Ted at ENGNBLDR
O/S valves from Ted an ENGNBLDR
Injectors have been cleaned, rebuilt, and tested by Rich at Cruzin Performance($84)
Downey Ceramic Headers and xover ($530 at Baja Concepts)

My cams are up in Canada with Johnny(aka WEASY2K) and should be here late this week. The cams run somewhere about $450. The heads will be rebuilt(no port and polish) by a local shop who does the 3 local dealership 3.0 heads. They will install the OS valves(they are running me $500 and 3 days turnaround). this same shop is going to run all my metal motor parts in the hot tank for me. YAY --

I am getting ready to order the remaining parts from the boards vendor at Champion Toyota... Shannon

Here is my GETTING READY TO BUY list-
1. water pump
2. FIPG sealant (black seal stuff from dealership)
3. knock sensor wire
4. front main seal
5. cap
6. rotor
7. plugs
8. wires
9. thermostat
10. all coolant hose
11. 3 drive belts
12. fuel filter
13. throttle body to intake gasket
14. cold start injector to intake gasket
15. o rings for plastic fuel boss that fuel injector sits in on the lower
intake
16. pcv valve
17. distributor o ring

I am looking for anything I may have missed - I want to make sure I get it all - and yes I know i will be making many trips to the auto parts store regardless.

BTW - there is a tag in the engine bay that shows the knock sensor and timing belt were done at 94,500(it has 102,600 currently) so i am not touching them

A couple questions I have at the moment:
1. Anyone done an oil filter relocation? anyone have a cheaper source than Downey at $65

2. anyone ever thought of making a shield out of thin aluminum and attaching it to the firewall to keep the wires and stuff away from the heat of the headers. I was thinking this would be better than wrapping them with reflective tape....

3. Best one yet, what color should i paint the motor? I think i am going to paint everything but the block -- i forgoed(is that a word) powdercoating from the budget in order to do the cams. so i am looking to paint and bake in the oven worked like a charm on VW's years ago.

4. Any suggestions for a torque wrench? i am looking at an sk 10-100 ft/lb 3/8" such as the link below - any better - other suggestions -- i want something that is going to last with care.
http://www.amazon.com/SK-Hand-Tool-M...9?ie=UTF8&s=hi

So, we will see how many people make it to the bottom of this post --
I figure it never hurts to have to much info and pictures out there - So if anyone has a particular picture(that pertains to the mission) they would like to see, just let me know - and as i said - i will get pictures posted when i get them back.

Thanks Boys
Katie

Ganoid

I would mention to the machine shop doing the work that there is a considerable weight difference between the 3.0 OS valves and the Dainty stock OE valves. They need to consider this when evaluating the valve spring condition and may need to shim the spring a bit to get that pressure up. These guys used to sell high performance 3.0 valve springs but they have very little in the way of parts listed on their new website so I'm not sure if they are still available. I will be calling them in a few weeks myself to see about higher pressure 3.0 springs unfortunately.

You may also want to consider pulling the whole engine out as its much easier to TQ all the parts on an engine stand where you can work around all sides of the motor. I have had the unfortunate pleasure of removing 3.0 heads 3 times now (#4 coming up in a month or so) and having pulled the motor out of the truck this last time I can say for sure that is how I will do every 3.0 HG replacment from now on. Pull the upper manifold to remove all the injector harness and bungee it out of the way. The manual says to pull the trans and motor as a unit but I just put a jack under the trans and pulled the motor with no problems, Installation was also a breeze. This rout also gives you a chance to inspect the clutch or replace the $30-$40 worth of rod and main bearings since its already out.

2) Does Downey even make headers for a 2wd? I guess I never looked. Wires usually aren't the issue with headers its the fuel and brake lines under the foot area of the pass side fire wall.

3)I went with yellow so any future oil leaks would stand out like a sore thumb. I guess any light color would work but its really preference. I painted with a temp resistant engine paint on the block and its holding up fine.


4) You may want to consider a 1/2 drive TQ wrench as they usually have a higher working range needed for cam and crank bolts. When considering an in/lb wrench I would suggest going with out or using an old school beam type instead of the clicker type for in/lbs. I myself and many others have snapped off intake manifold bolts using clickers for low torque in/lb stuff.

Babypig

I would do header wrap and form some sort of shield. Maybe even a trip to a wrecker yard to see what can be scavenged and modified to work would be a good start. Sorry to hear about the fire and all, and yeah pics when you get them. Let us know how it all works out.

mt_goat

If you do that make sure the new location is the same height or lower than the original filter, or the oil will drain out of the plumbing and you'll lose oil pressure on start-ups. Personally I wouldn't do one because if anything goes wrong with it you've ruined your motor.

I used a lot of this type stuff:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

If you do wrap the headers (which is a PITA BTW) follow up with a good coating of this: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...00451&D=300451 Personally I'd get the ceramic coated headers if avaliable and wrap the stuff you want to keep cool.



I did mine in gloss black:


I guess that one would work fine for your smaller torque wrench, but I think you'll need a bigger one too for at least one bolt (crank pulley bolt needs 181 ft-lbs on the 3VZ-E) You can get some pretty nice torque wrenches at Home Depot of all places. I found one that goes to 250 ft-lb there for about $70 IIRC, but its better to have a smaller one too (they read most accurate in the middle of their scale. A lot of parts stores will loan torque wrenches too.

justinking060310

no new news- just didnt want to appear to be ignoring the threads - business will be slow until next weekend when i get parts to put in --

parts mentioned above are all ordered from Shannon at Champion Toyota in Houston -- great guy ($340 shipped for the future researchers.)

GANOID - The spring rates being different had not occured to me - i will talk to them about it -hopefully later this week.

I like the yellow idea - i have a hunter green runner so i am trying to get something that would not look to bad - i have pondered yellow, lime green, light pink(i am a gurl you know) -- i do want leaks or problems to stand out like you said.

i will probably wind up getting 2 torque wrenchs - 1/2 and 3/8 i will always use them. i am willing to spend about 100 or so on each one if anyone has some other suggestions - i like tools that i only have to buy once - i am not quite a snap on tool user yet though.

and yes the 4wd downey headers will fit 2wd 4runners as long as you have 6 lug wheels -- this is info from downey - it is written in their catalog as well

as for the headers, i think i am going to run them without wrap for the start and see how it works out, i will make a shield of sorts to keep wires away and probably wrap the wires too

thats about it for now, i will get pictures when i can

katie

EuphoricKaty80

there are 2 katy's!!! OH NO!! Well guess its a good thing we spell our names differently.....Best of luck and keep us updated on progress!

DH6twinotter

Not sure if the gasket kit includes one or not, but there is a small O-ring at the end of the distributer shaft. Whoever worked on my 3.0 before I got it forgot to put in the distributer O-ring and I had oil pooling up in my distributer.

You may want to consider replacing the tensioner and possibly the idler pulley if they weren't replaced when the timing belt was.

Just my $.02.

GSGALLANT

Katie,

Consider buying "the right stuff" FIPG by permatex. You can use it for every application on your vehicle, and it is excellent stuff. No waiting time required for curing before you refill your systems.

Like mentioned by others, you will definitely need two torque wrenches when working on your vehicle. Try to get a 3/8" one that goes from 20 - 250 in lb and a 1/2" one that goes from 20 to 250 ft lb. That way, you'll have a wrench that will handle every bolt on your vehicle.

Although I agree with some of the previous posters when they say to be careful when using the in lb torque wrench in very low torque applications (such as your valve covers), I disagree that a bending torque wrench is any better. Just go very slow and be aware that the "clicking" will be extremely faint in very low torque applications, and it can be easy to miss. If you don't realize that your wrench clicked, you will keep turning and turning and strip or break something. If you are aware of that, then you won't overtorque anything.

Good luck. It's great to see girls taking on a project like this! Keep it up!

jht3

piggybacking on this thread

what is the preferred method to stop oil leaking from the valve covers and cam seals? is FIPG used for all of this and the heads? are there any special tricks to applying it? the FSM step for this leaves alot to be desired in terms of details and clarity

justinking060310

Katy - Nice to see another Katy on board! Where in Va are you from?

DH6 - #17 distributor o ring - got it - I have seen that problem before. Also, everything was "tight" and nothing wobbled on disassembly, i will check it upon reass. thanks for making sure i look for it!

GSGALLANT - is this "right stuff by permatex" the sam or different from the FIPG that the toyota dealer is selling me? i was under the understanding that Thank you for the info on the torque wrench's.. i will do that, i cant believe how litlle 12 in lbs on the valve covers is - seems weak -- anyhow, does SK sound ok for a brand?

jht - i believe that you are to seal any misc areas without gaskets with this FIPG - but you are right that the FSM leaves you to figure it out. When i took things apart there seems to be FIPG at the cam seals and water pump housing. However, i am sure someone else will add but i do not think you want to use this on the valve covers... should jest be gaskets as far as i know.


****** Has anyone tapped into the lower side of the thermostat housing for an H20 temp sender? this would give me the temp of water in the motor at all times, correct? or is there a better place? also, i am going to be putting in a cooler on the auto trans and i would like to put a temp sender on that as well. I am going to run i gauge in front of the center console with a switch - did the same thing in another truck - water temp and trans temp with one gauge and a switch.

here is enough pictures to bog down the page - lol

katie
i have a ton of pictures, let me know if you need a particular one!

Targetnut

Make sure that the block deck is in good shape. It is common to find a bit of errosion at the edge of cylinder number 6 that can cause subsequent head gsk failures.

I'll second the motion for "the right stuff" Toyota FIPG is real good stuff but it is not as good as the right stuff.

As far as the valve cover gaskets, you want to put a dab at the corners where the gaskets go over the cam caps. Also at the end cam caps just a small dab to seal between the head and cap, making sure that you don't put too much and squeeze it onto the cam bearing.

When sealing the waterpump make sure both surfaces are clean and dry and only use as much sealant as necessary to "fill the gap" to much will spooge out and end up clogging parts of your cooling system.

SK makes fine hand tools, so that would be a good choice for torque
wrenches.

I think the sensor housing on the back of the intake would be a better choice for a location for the temp sender

Yellow and green are great choices for engine color. Unfortunately pink woul clash with your truck.

While you have it apart you should consider replacing the o-ring seals on the oil cooler.

justinking060310

awesome information Target -- i need to research the oil cooler prior to making a comment and sounding ignorant

pink might not be so good for resale (not that i plan on it) either

kat

Ganoid

x3 this stuff is like motor glue.

GSGALLANT

Plus, Toyota specifies a couple of different kinds of FIPG, depending on what part of the motor it's on (different part numbers, anyways). With "The Right Stuff", you can seal anything on your vehicle. It's good for all fluids.

jht3

why would you want another temp gauge? on the back of the engine are the two water temp senders; one for the ECU, one for your cluster. if you got creative you could T off the gauge sender port to install an aftermarket sender/gauge.

also, i believe there already is a trans temp sender on the A340H. I don't know what it's operating resistance range is, but you could probably T off that too. further more, the stock radiator has a tranny cooler built in. you looking for more cooling than factory?

justinking060310

OK, so had many delays(The house burning down was the main one)

Here is where we are at:






The motor is on the stand to be disassembled and the tranny is getting ready to be cleaned up tomorrow... Got a new pressurized sandblaster today, so we are going to test that out tomorrow.

I am going to assess what to do after I break the block down but i think that i am going to go ahead and do the rebuild.

If anyone needs a particular picture of anything let me know.

d0ubledown

nothin beats seein a girl wrench on her own junk...

lookin good so far! did you compare prices on what it'd cost to swap in a 3.4L instead of a rebuild+mods?

justinking060310

to be honest, i didn't -- It would probably have been cheaper to swap - but there is not a HUGE supply of Toyotas in my area -- I have never driven this truck either( so hopefully it will drive nicely when i get done) --

Happy St Patty's Day!!

L33T35T 4Runner

Kinda off topic, but the picture is in this thread so i dont wanna steal it...



I know this device has to do with the EGR system. near the top left of the picture the metal part connects to a black what looks to be plastic piece. when cold during idle and when coming down from from higher RPMs to idle when warm, this thing makes a loud shacking/ rattling sound. anybody heard of these things doing that? it hasnt noticably effected the performance of the vehicle, but my gas milage has seemed to be getting worse over the last few months (it's been doing this for a while).

sorry for stealing the thread

Ebin

Hey justinking, if I were you I'd replace that hydraulic tensioner on the timing belt too. Cost is about $45-$50.