i was drinving my '88 PU with a 22 RE and it just stopped running.
turned the key and it re-started for a few seconds, then quit again. got it towed back home and here it sits.......

it cranks hard and even trys to start some..... then just keeps cranking.
all i can get it to do is sputter, like its not getting fuel.... has 133k and not sure what the PO has done (or not done) so i decided to start with the fuel filter. i looked for it by following the fuel lines, but saw nothing obvious that hollered out "fule filter" so i wnet and bought the new one in hopes of being able to know what i am looking for...... maybe i am just plain dumb, but i still cant find it.

Is this thing in one of those impossible to get to locations?
the hayes manual has been no help, so i turn to the brotherhood.

Thanx in advance

trevor

 

IIRC the fuel filter should be under your intake manifold in the engine bay..

As for the issue, Id first say fuel pump..
have you tested it..?
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump


Good luck..

 

Great info...... thanx

just tried the jumper and no change.....

i have a 3" body lift, but guess i still need to either lift the bed, drop the tank.......

any guesses which will cause less injury to me!?!?!?

t

 

hahah

Well if you can lift just the pass side and verrrry diligently prop it up with something verrrrrry rigid inbetween the bed and the frame rails, Then you wont have to drop the tank.. But you would need another person or 2 to help with lifting the bed..

If you can drain or siphon your tank, or its empty, quick to drop the tank, But if its full thats not fun...and youll most likely need a floor jack as gas weighs ~16 PPG...

 

wouldnt you know it, i just filled the tank......
i can use the trusses in the barn to lift , or even my tractor's loader bucket.
i lifted the whole rear end by the bumper to be able to move it around by myself and have it not roll away from me. just left it in gear with the parking break on and pushed it around, then when i sat it back down, it didnt roll.


thanx for the help. i will get a fuel pump tomorrow and try that.

t

 

Hey bro, there is like a 16 or 17mm drain plug on the bottom of the tank, you may need to remover the skid plate for the tank, but thats about it. Me and my dude dropped out the tank, did the sending unit and slapped it back up in a night (3 hours), tank still had 1/4 tank of gas.

Also see if you can hear it click on, dont do all that work if your pump is still working. A quick way to test it out is take the 19mm bolt off the main feed line going into the rail, and see if your getting enough gas to fill a beer/pop can in under a minute. The bolt is located behind the trottle body. You will need a new crush washer though. thats a whole 50 cents.

 

Yeah theres a drain plug in the tank.. just drain it out and drop it easy as pie theres like 6 or 9 bolts or something.

Lucky me, my fuel pump is two bolts on the front of the engine block. Carbureted ftw

Edit: Oh 89 beat me to it

 

before you start replacing stuff, crank it over for about 30 sec. take out a spark plug and see if its wet with gas. if it is, gas is ok .
Did you check for spark? my 87 did something similar. may be the Igniter is the square thing under the coil, Good luck

 

Yeah, Should have mentioned the drain plug..

Um yeah, I know its a PITA to drop a tank, I had to drop and reinstall my tank on my old truck probably 5 times.. Dont ask..

 

Why not just disconnect the banjo off the cold start injector, and see if it fills a small bottle in under a minute.

 

My fuel filter is behind the tank above the right rear tire. I don't need to get under the truck to change it.

 

good point. i always did the other banjo bigger stream and minus going thru the rail it was more of a direct shot, going through the rail might require pressure, whereas coming out of the feed line would give a more true reading but i see your point

 

Got smething even quicker to check for fuel problem. Remove the tube from the air filter and spray some starting fluid into the engine and crank. If it comes to life you have a fuel problem, if not the problem is else were ( spark, compression, timing ect....) . You are not gonna soak it just add another fuel sorce to check to see if the fuel is the problem....

 

yup... try some starting fluid, but don't disconnect the tube from the air filter housing, just have someone crank the engine over while you spray the fluid behind the headlight.
If it will start and run while you're spraying the fluid... then we know it's something to do with the fuel system, as mentioned by lilgreg46.
Then we can start narrowing down the problems.

 

Be careful with the starting fluid, quick short bursts. I'm not sure how the Toyota's are, but my old *quiver* chevy used to get ether locked...

 

OK... it started and ran for 5 seconds.... ran around and pushed the pedal and it stalled out...... i am going to try the fuel pump first as i can't even see the fuel filter and that means talking off stuff i am not sure what they do in order to get to the filter.
if anyone knows a real easy way to chenge the filter, please let me know. the Hayes manual just says the obvious, tkae off the connectors and replace it, but says nothing about how to even get to it to take off the connectors!

thanx guys

t

 

You dont have to take anything off but the access panel in the passenger side fender well. The filter is mounted on the passenger side of the block right under the lowe intake. I did mine in about and hour.

 

i talked to a friend who had a 89 yota PU..... he told me the same thing.
took off the right front wheel and there it was (i am already missing the fender well skirts due to body lift and wheelin') the bolts were on pretty good, but a little power blaster and flare nut wrenches and i got it off and the new one on.

Still doesnt start, so i will get the fuel pump tomorrow and try that this weekend.

yipee!?!?!

t

 

x2 on getting the filter by removing the tire. i talked about replacing my filter for a couple weeks before actually doing it because i was scared of taking off the intake, and was too lazy to remove the starter.

monday my buddy had the same problem with his f150, he got about half way home from work and it just died. when he tried to start it, it would almost start but then die out, like it wasn't getting enough fuel.

i towed him back to the house (in my yota! ) and the neighbor came out (with a similiar truck) looked at it for about 3 minutes and said it was the cap and rotor.

turned out to be the cap and rotor....

it might not be the same for your truck, but $20 for a cap and rotor is worth a shot, when you consider the price and effort differences in a cap/rotor and a fuel pump

 

i got spark, so i dont think it is the cap and rotor........ or could it still be?

maybe the ignition box on top of the coil?

now you got me thinkin"