Just more 4.3 swap questions
12-08-2006, 05:36 PM
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Just more 4.3 swap questions
Currently my '94 extended cab is parked outside, half dissasembled, with two holes in the bock and one rod visible. This is the second 22RE I have killed in this truck.
The only good news is that there is a 4.3, 4L-60-E, and an NP-231C in the bed. I pulled the entire drivetrain, and wiring harness down to the gauge cluster, out of a '96 S-10 with 155,000 mi during thanksgiving break.
I think that the biggest buggers of this project wil be wiring, and cashflow. I would like to locate a D300 to slap behind the reduction portion of the NP231 with an adapter. I tell myself that this swap can be done for less that a reman'd 22RE, but I really only know one way to find out.
That's the intro, heres my questions.
I haven't seen any 4.3 swaps that are still IFS. Am I going to run into any problems between the motor's oil pan and front diff or steering?
Where can I find a complete wiring diagram for the S-10? I've searched and only found dead ends. I'm also looking for any information I can get as far as stripping the harness down and mating it into the Toyota chassis harness.
I believe the S-10 used some sort of speed sensor in the back of the NP231. What does this affect as far as drivability would be concerned. Can it be adapted to the speedo drive of a D-300?
The tranny had a bad front output seal. The torque converter has some shallow grooves in the seal mating area that may require a new converter. I'm a junkyard shopper, so what vehicles will have a converter that will fit my motor and tranny?
In an attempt to show some forsight, is there anything that should be replaced on the 4.3 or 4L before I install it, such as seals that are known to go bad or etc...
Will the stock exhaust manifolds work? If not, what have other people made work?
I'd like to mate Toyota U-joints to the D-300. Is that doable?
I've seen some designs for motor mounts that look like they use leaf spring bushings with a steel sleave, but I can't find any part numbers. Anyone know more about this?
Any pictures of fabbed motor, tranny or transfer case mounts that are relevent to this swap would be appreciated.
Sorry for all the questions. This will be my first non-bolt in motor swap and I'd like to catch any problems before it is halfway built. Thanks for any help.
The only good news is that there is a 4.3, 4L-60-E, and an NP-231C in the bed. I pulled the entire drivetrain, and wiring harness down to the gauge cluster, out of a '96 S-10 with 155,000 mi during thanksgiving break.
I think that the biggest buggers of this project wil be wiring, and cashflow. I would like to locate a D300 to slap behind the reduction portion of the NP231 with an adapter. I tell myself that this swap can be done for less that a reman'd 22RE, but I really only know one way to find out.
That's the intro, heres my questions.
I haven't seen any 4.3 swaps that are still IFS. Am I going to run into any problems between the motor's oil pan and front diff or steering?
Where can I find a complete wiring diagram for the S-10? I've searched and only found dead ends. I'm also looking for any information I can get as far as stripping the harness down and mating it into the Toyota chassis harness.
I believe the S-10 used some sort of speed sensor in the back of the NP231. What does this affect as far as drivability would be concerned. Can it be adapted to the speedo drive of a D-300?
The tranny had a bad front output seal. The torque converter has some shallow grooves in the seal mating area that may require a new converter. I'm a junkyard shopper, so what vehicles will have a converter that will fit my motor and tranny?
In an attempt to show some forsight, is there anything that should be replaced on the 4.3 or 4L before I install it, such as seals that are known to go bad or etc...
Will the stock exhaust manifolds work? If not, what have other people made work?
I'd like to mate Toyota U-joints to the D-300. Is that doable?
I've seen some designs for motor mounts that look like they use leaf spring bushings with a steel sleave, but I can't find any part numbers. Anyone know more about this?
Any pictures of fabbed motor, tranny or transfer case mounts that are relevent to this swap would be appreciated.
Sorry for all the questions. This will be my first non-bolt in motor swap and I'd like to catch any problems before it is halfway built. Thanks for any help.
12-08-2006, 10:57 PM
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12-09-2006, 05:09 AM
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I am familiar with pirate. I have a red star and have been searching there as well.
Oh, I am all too aware as to how much work I have cut out for myself. The wiring harness to the 4.3 is a monster compared to what I am currently ripping out.
The original motor lost all compression in the number three cylinder at about 166,000 mi. The second motor came from a junkyard. I overheated it three times, hydro'd twice, and just abused it in general. After being hydro'd it developed a small rod knock. Several hundred miles later, that knock really started to scare me. It would figure that all of this would happen after I replaced the starter, alternator, timing chain, and other odd's and ends I will no longer be using.
Oh, I am all too aware as to how much work I have cut out for myself. The wiring harness to the 4.3 is a monster compared to what I am currently ripping out.
The original motor lost all compression in the number three cylinder at about 166,000 mi. The second motor came from a junkyard. I overheated it three times, hydro'd twice, and just abused it in general. After being hydro'd it developed a small rod knock. Several hundred miles later, that knock really started to scare me. It would figure that all of this would happen after I replaced the starter, alternator, timing chain, and other odd's and ends I will no longer be using.
12-09-2006, 05:39 AM
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If the oil pan hits the IFS you could try a drivetrain lift, or a suspension lift, or a custom oil pan. I'm sure most people on Pirate will tell you to SAS it.
Last edited by mt_goat; 12-09-2006 at 05:41 AM.
12-09-2006, 09:58 PM
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Well today the stock drivetrain was removed in 30 degree weather. But at least it was warm.
The 4.3 was lowered into place to see what hit where. I am not sure if it is practical to make the IFS and 4.3 work together.
The oil pan hits the front diff, the manifolds nearly touch the torsion bars, the thing sits way to high, way to far forward (the #3 cylinder is inline with the front axle), and can't be tilted back enough to fit a drivetrain under the floor. Figuring out exactly where to position the drivetrain is not going to be as easy as I had hoped.
I'd like for the truck to have a flat belly, or close to it, after the swap. The truck currently has 1.5 inches of body lift, which will help. Floor modifications still look inevitable.
A SAS swap is the obvious solution, but that adds more cost and downtime. and is a last resort.
I started cutting down both the S-10 harness and the trucks current one. Certainly not my idea of fun, but it has to be done.
It looks like the easiest way to make this work is to change the oil pan to one with a much shallower sump, preferably a Driver's side drain plug, and the sump needs to be farther back than stock to allow the motor to sit more behind than above the front axle. I am thinking that the odds of finding an oil pan like this are pretty much nill. I guess I need to look into oil pan designs.
The 4.3 was lowered into place to see what hit where. I am not sure if it is practical to make the IFS and 4.3 work together.
The oil pan hits the front diff, the manifolds nearly touch the torsion bars, the thing sits way to high, way to far forward (the #3 cylinder is inline with the front axle), and can't be tilted back enough to fit a drivetrain under the floor. Figuring out exactly where to position the drivetrain is not going to be as easy as I had hoped.
I'd like for the truck to have a flat belly, or close to it, after the swap. The truck currently has 1.5 inches of body lift, which will help. Floor modifications still look inevitable.
A SAS swap is the obvious solution, but that adds more cost and downtime. and is a last resort.
I started cutting down both the S-10 harness and the trucks current one. Certainly not my idea of fun, but it has to be done.
It looks like the easiest way to make this work is to change the oil pan to one with a much shallower sump, preferably a Driver's side drain plug, and the sump needs to be farther back than stock to allow the motor to sit more behind than above the front axle. I am thinking that the odds of finding an oil pan like this are pretty much nill. I guess I need to look into oil pan designs.
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12-10-2006, 05:20 AM
#8
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Look at Cebby's V8 swap, he's been working on a custom oil pan. Maybe you can pick up some tips. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f161/1uzfe-swap-into-2nd-gen-4runner-54771/
Here's another V8 swap by Twisty:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f161/my-lexus-v8-into-2nd-gen-4runner-conversion-76701/
Here's another V8 swap by Twisty:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f161/my-lexus-v8-into-2nd-gen-4runner-conversion-76701/
01-19-2007, 12:24 PM
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I have done a similar swap into my CJ-7 with a 1993 Multi-port Vortec 4.3, 700R4, and Novak adapter for the D300. The wiring for mine was actually simple. I only needed 12V power to 5 wires to make everything work as it should. It took time to find the wires and slim down the harness, but it has worked great for me for the last 5 years. I used an aftermarket fuse block to power everything, if you would like pictures, just let me know. I can also give you some pics of the mounts, but I just modified my Jeep mounts to work with the 4.3 stock mounts. I would love to find a set of poly motor mounts, since I have been ripping the stock rubber ones apart lately. The Novak adapter I used changed the input shaft of the D300 to match the 700R4 output. I liked that since I could tie any 4wd 700R4 to it with no additional mods. My bigest problem was finding an external fuel pump with the right pressure for my engine, since there was not enough room for it to go with my sending unit in the tank. I have a diagram for my 4.3, but I doubt that it would do you any good due to the differences in the years. The Haynes and Chilton manuals also had great diagrams for mine, so you might try that for yours. Let me know if you have any questions, It has been a while since I went thru the swap, but I will do my best to answer them. Good luck.
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