All right, I got a good start today doing my gear install but I've run into problems. I'll get to that. I han no trouble getting the front diff out. I already had the driveshaft off anyway, Plus I had a cheater bar and I lift weights pretty seriously so breaking the bolts loose wasn't too much trouble.

Here's the diff all taken apart. Everything looks good. It's too bad I even have too do this, but It's got to match the rear.


Pressing the pinion bearing off to get the original shim to start with.


I cut the cage off the old bearings and used the inner part to press the new bearings on the new pinion with the factory shim. It was .099" thick.


Torquing down the pinion without the crush sleeve. So far so good. You can see my homeade tool used to hold the flange. It's bent from the foot tons used to crush the crush sleeve in the rear. I hope this ones easier.


I got the park tool for $50 like Zuk suggested. I should have done that for the rear too. I'm going to take it back apart later and put it back together with the solid spacer anyway so I can use my new tool then. I love that thing. Anyway, just under 20lb. I got tired of the trial and error thing.


Skipping a few steps here. Took off old ring gear. I had to press on the new one. I used wood blocks to not damage the ring. It took quite a bit of pressure.

Here's where I ran into my first problem. I pressed off the old carrier bearings. Then soon realized that my master kit came with the wrong bearings. It seems like they might match the rear but I'm not sure. I hadn't kept up with which side was which or even which bearing went with which race for my old bearings. I was forced to make the best guess I could and put back on the old ones. They looked good so I wasn't too worried about it.

I put everything back together with the .119" shim on the ring side and the .100" shim on the other. Those were the factory ones. When I got it together there was nearly no backlash. So I did it again with a .005" shim opposite the ring side and got about .005" backlash.


Thats tight, but I wanted to check it anyway. Here's what I got.


Here's the coast.


Looks pretty good, a little shallow on the ring. I thought it could use another .005" in the pinion shim. I tore it down switched out the pinion shim for a slightly thicker stack of shims and put it back together again without the crush sleeve.

Here's where I ran into a major problem. he carrier was already tight on that last setup, but it seems that if you can get it together then it's not too tight from what I gathered from Zuk's info. Well I added some more shim opposite the ring gear side to try to increase my backlash to around .007" but when trying to coax it all together I was using a steel hammer against an aluminum rod directly on the races. It had worked so far but this time it took too much because all of a sudden it went in. At first I was happy but then I realized that the race had cracked. Since I got the wrong bearings in my kit I had no spare. I called all the local auto parts stores and no one had one. I'll be stuck waiting until Monday and going to the bearing place to get some. At least I'll have new ones after all.

 

your on the right track. i don't have the patience for gears, in steps "ZUK" and my problemo is solved. my hats off to you for doing your own gears.

 

Well, appearantly I have a V6 carrier or something because that's what my carrier bearings match. They are Nachi part number 50KB801LT. they have a 50mm inside diameter. I really need some of these. I can't find them anywhere. If someone could help me out, let me know.

 

PepsiBlueFloat saved the day. He gave me his old front ifs diff. I'll decide whether to use the whole thing or just the carrier or what when i get the cover off. If I can use the new bearings that came with my master kit then I'll use the whole thing, otherwise I'll just swap the carrier over with the bearings that are in it. Thanks again Pepsi! Looking forward to wheelin with you sometime.

Looks like I'll be working on this thing through the week. I'll post more pics.

 

I just sent you a pm....I have some used 50mm carrier bearings...I also have a selection of CB washers if you don't have enough of a selection to dial in the BL. ZUK

ps----pattern says to go .004 or .005 deeper.

 

np man, im glad to help someone else out. Not to mention i got that smelly thing out that back of the 4runner, heh.

ill for sure contact u to go wheelin if i ever get this SAS done...

 

The carrier I got from PBF happens to be a four cylinder diff. That is good since I can now use the new bearings that came in my kit but I've run into other problems. For some reason the carrier drops in with about .350" of room for shim and I'm not sure if that's okay. By the way, I'm now using the 4cyl housing and carrier that I got from PBF.

 

All right, My master kit came with the wrong races for the carrier bearing. That damn thing has cost me a lot of time. I put back the bearings and races that came in my donor diff and after a couple tries and a busted finger I got it set to .0085" BL with .110" shim on the ring side and .129" on the Pinion side. That baby is SNUG! so CBPL is high, which I like. Here's my pattern with .105" pinion shim.




Now if this pattern is okay I just have to pull it all apart so I can put in the crush sleeve and start putting everything back together.

 

Pattern appears ok. I recommend a genuine Toyota crush sleeve...seems like the after-market ones for the 7.5" IFS fronts take too much effort to crush and sometimes the threads on the nut go bye-bye. Use anti-seize on the threads to help save them.

 

hey, you wouldnt happen to know the gear ratio that was in that diff do you?

 

You're exactly right. I stripped the first one and reused the old one which was more heavy duty and I caked it with red threadlocker. Finally got it. I may have gone a little high on the preload, a little over 20in lb, but everything looked real good when I got it all back together. Now I just have to put it in. I'll be doing that on Thursday afternoon.

 

I won't be there until Thursday, but I'll count it up then and post the gear ratio for you.

 

thanks

 

Yay! I got it all back together. I also changed the fluid from the rear gears since I put them in a few weeks ago and I greased all my u-joints. It should be a happy truck! Now I'll let this thread die.

Pepsi, I counted those gears. 41 teeth on the ring and 10 on the pinion. those are 4.10's.

Thanks to Zuk for valuable info all the way through this process. I do need to call J.T. and see if he can do anything about those races being wrong. I have new bearings that I can't use now. Other than a few setbacks everything went all right. I can't wait to go climb something!