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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Just bought '86 4Runner, starts for a second then dies

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Old Jun 21, 2021 | 03:56 PM
  #21  
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Well, good luck
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Old Jun 22, 2021 | 01:47 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BigBluePile
Well, good luck
Thank you! I did whack the COR on your suggestion, but no dice. Now I've replaced it entirely with a brand new one, and I'll know if it helps once my battery is charged.
'
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Old Jun 22, 2021 | 03:00 PM
  #23  
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Something tells me these scorch marks could have something to do with it? Although I'm not sure if they were there when I bought it or not. Fuses are intact, or at least appear to be... any suggestions on what to do about this?
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Old Jun 22, 2021 | 03:59 PM
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From: nh
Originally Posted by Danson
Something tells me these scorch marks could have something to do with it? Although I'm not sure if they were there when I bought it or not. Fuses are intact, or at least appear to be... any suggestions on what to do about this?
first, although you can generally see when a fuse has blown, the proper way to determine whether it is any good is to use your multimeter. second, you might want to take a look at the ratings of the fuses called for in that fuse block. i see too many 20 amp fuses. most should be 15. don't believe there should be any 25 rated, either.

Last edited by wallytoo; Jun 22, 2021 at 04:01 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 02:38 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by wallytoo
first, although you can generally see when a fuse has blown, the proper way to determine whether it is any good is to use your multimeter. second, you might want to take a look at the ratings of the fuses called for in that fuse block. i see too many 20 amp fuses. most should be 15. don't believe there should be any 25 rated, either.
Found some photos of the kick panel diagram, looks like everything should be a 15 except for the two 7.5s (saw one that had a 20 for the defog instead, might be a different year?).

Will replace those and at least if they start blowing I'll have a trail to follow. I'm sure the PO replaced them because they kept blowing (anything he did seems pretty poor work).
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 04:12 PM
  #26  
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From: nh
the plastic cover over the fuse panel should list the proper ratings for the fuses
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 07:48 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wallytoo
the plastic cover over the fuse panel should list the proper ratings for the fuses
Oh mine is long gone, but I looked up pictures.

So, it turns out I'm an idiot. Kind of. I tried to spray starter fluid into the intake as someone suggested, days and days ago, but I was too conservative and didn't notice a change. I just had my girlfriend crank for me while I sprayed it continuously into the brake booster port, and could keep it running. Which means my cold start injector is getting fuel but the rest aren't? Or maybe they are getting fuel but clogged and/or not firing? At any rate, I've been chasing my tail thinking I had fuel because the pump is running, I could see fuel come out of the lines, and I had pressure at the banjo bolt.

Suggestions on what to check first before I tear the whole thing apart? I'm already afraid of what I'm gonna find, it's clear the PO has had the intake off before and there are wires that shouldn't be nearly as "tight" as they are, like the coolant temp sensor, like he pinched the wire under something or just routed it totally wrong.

Last edited by Danson; Jun 23, 2021 at 07:50 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 09:46 PM
  #28  
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Open to ideas but I jumped the gun and went ahead and just pulled the plenum off. Really wanted to know what was underneath and as I predicted not very happy with what I found. PO broke all four injector harness clips and secured them with zip ties instead. One of the boots was slid way down and one of the wires pulled out of the connector slightly. It's the front-most injector which means that exposed metal was certainly hit by the pressure washing job and moisture got into the connector. Three injectors came out with wet nozzles, one was bone dry. Not sure if one of them (or all of them) is clogged or if it's an electrical issue but we're getting closer. Thanks for all the good advice, too bad I'm a dummy and didn't narrow this down earlier.

Last edited by Danson; Jun 24, 2021 at 01:31 AM.
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Old Jun 29, 2021 | 07:10 PM
  #29  
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Well, I'm learning a lot. Lesson number one is that taking the entire intake off is completely unnecessary and I should've just brought the upper half to the machine shop for cleaning. Broke thermostat housing bolt, most of the bolts on the block are the absolute worst (clearly meant to be removed with the engine OUT), the radiator needs replaced badly, PO not only broke the injector connectors but seemingly every damn connector in the engine compartment. On top of all that, the lower half wasn't even that dirty (upper was absolutely CAKED in carbon) so now I'm not even sure I want to take it to the machine shop. Considering everything I'm finding I wouldn't be surprised at all if the rebuilt injectors don't do a thing.

Last edited by Danson; Jul 1, 2021 at 10:48 AM.
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