gimpeh83

Hi there
I m a new poster to yotatech, and I have a question as im stumped. I have tried searching videos and threads on here but to nothing has turned up my answer.

I have a 1994 toyota pickup with a 22re, i love this truck as everything is generally easy to work on.

The alternator has me stumped however. I have removed all the cables to the alternator, and my haynes manual says to get out the old alternator, you have to move it to the rear of the alt. bracket and it should slide out. however I tried this, and i couldnt get it to come out.

The only other way i can think of would be to remove the upper rad hose and try to wiggle it out.

I have big hands, so not so easy to do. I need to get this alternator out so that I can put in the new one.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how i can go about getting this done? i need my truck for work and working in -30 degree Celsius weather really isnt fun.

Thanks!

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

I find it is easier to unbolt the PS pump (the whole bracket comes off the head pretty easy), 3 or 4 bolts) and then you can get to it easily.

bob200587

Take it out from underneath.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I remove the lower radiator hose it comes right out I have found this to be the easy way to do this.

Those stupid splash guards and tool catcher got thrown out years ago.

RobertIII

I have a 1994 toyota 4x4 22re and literally just took the old alternator out today. Remove the lower radiator hose and take the bolt out on top and on bottom and your good to go. The top bolt is a 12mm and the bottom bolt and nut is 14mm. Once you have that and the two connections removed, you just have to push it out of the bracket and just manipulate it out. Good luck!

93 Toyota 4x4

when you go to putting the Alt back in, use anti seize on the shaft of long bolt. As it tends to corrode and make withdraw difficult. BTW- I use anti sieze on most threads where there is a potential for removal. Not head bolts, oil pan bolts, but many others, like brackets, adjusting bolts,lug nuts, spark plugs, suspension..etc.

Also dieletric grease on all electric terminals.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see I am not the only one that removes the lower radiator hose to get them out. I thought I was doing it the hard way by always having to refill the radiator.

Romans117

Never had to take the rad hoses off and always took out the front. Splash guard bottom gone long time ago. I have large hands and sausage like fingers. It is a tight fit out the front and must be tilted front down.

670_islander_671

So I see the very helpful tips helping you out. This forum is awesome! Just registered myself and I'm trying to put in the new alternator today. My problem is that in the lower bracket there is a bushing that is looking like it's not sitting flush. Should this be replaced, pressed in? I have no vice to press it back in and was thinking that I can do it with vice grip pliers. Then maybe the new alternator will slide in better. What do you think?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Getting the alternator in the lower bracket can be tight. Cant think of which way the bushing goes into the bracket at the moment. I have never messed with it. Once you get the bottom bolt in, it isnt going anywhere.

rustypigeon

I use a bolt, a nut, some washers and a socket to push the bushing and allow the alternator to slide in the bracket.

Use a socket that is larger than the bushing diameter on the side you want the bushing to move. Use the washer on the other side. Just thread in the nut and bolt and it will be pushed to the socket side.

Averette

I have a 1989 Toyota pick-up. I replaced mine by taking it out from the bottom. Nothing on YouTube showed it coming out. Since you have the radiator drained and the hoses off, I found it easier to unbolt the radiator and pull it up. That gave me enough Clarence to get it out. It is tight but I preferred that over moving the Pwr steering pump.

Alfonso Meza

How's it going I seen that you were having the same issue that i am so I was wondering if you could tell me how you got bushing out or flush

Gracias chelu.

Alfonso Meza

Good day sir rusty pidgeon
Do you recall the sizes of the materials you used I'm having the same issue as 671

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

12" bastard file.. Solved.

I've banged on that with a drift and mallet and mine doesn't budge. Which leaves me with the thought it's not a spacer but a sleeve..

Also helps if you have the right alternator case casting, there are more than one and most places are going to give you the same case regardless of what years you say.

85TurboRunner

.....

Bakerbrah

I wish I thought of that before prying on the bushing, thus snapping half of the flanged side off! This is the only good advice I have found, anywhere, about fitting the alternator back in, and makes complete sense. I’m not filing my alternator casing 🤣. Any idea if the bushing is a replaceable part? I’m thinking the half that’s still there will provide enough pressure against the alternator, but I’m a bit too much of a perfectionist.

JoeS

I've replaced about 3 of them and I always go up through the bottom. You have to remove the lower radiator hose as it's in the way. Get yourself a set of Rino Ramps as it makes access easier.

Always buy a lifetime warranty on a generic rebuilt alternator or starter, as they will go bad within 3-5 years. Save you money big time or just spend more and get a Denso. The pain is not the cost but the installation effort.

A recurring issue I found out with the 1st generic rebuilt alternator that the bottom bracket on the rebuilt alternator was always 1/16" too wide, so it would not fit into the engine mounting bracket. Measure with calipers the bottom bracket of the one you took off to check the replacement one. If it is too wide, then use blue painter tape and cover all the vent holes and file/grind off the excess from the back side end only. That way the front fits so the pulley is still inline.

My latest one I bought a rebuilt unit from Toyota dealership and it's a Denso rebuild. Been 6 years now and going strong.