KRos_+

Ill start off by saying this site is the best for yota lovers and everyone here seems like they are very honest helpful good people! This site has helped me very much! I am forever grateful.

I have loved toyotas for a long time (+10yrs and im only 24). Ever since i saw and felt what my friends 94 single cab 22re 5 spd 4x4 would go through with everything stock (except 31" Mud kings). I fell in love with that truck. It went everywhere for years without anything ever breaking. And he beat the hell out of it. Drove up trees thru creeks and ponds 5 feet of mud, overloaded it with gravel, sand soil, trees, 2 skids of brick in the bed (1 ton each!). It was when he tried tearing the top half of the engine aprt and putting on a new timing chain that he made a vital mistake which claimed the engine. He didnt clean a ground wire (not sure which one) and then he drove it for awhile running bad and it caught fire shorted out the ECU along with everything else melting almost every wire and just totalled that engine. He didnt know what he was doing or what he lost. That was about 8 years ago.

February of this year I bought my truck that I have wanted so long. Its a 91 single cab 22re 5spd 4x4 manualocking hubs all stock (will post pics soon). I got severely ripped off by a used car dealer (scam artists). Speedo didnt and still doesnt work nor does the odometer Its stuck at 129,xxx (true mileage unknown! ). It didnt have a cat converter and i live where theres emission checks for registering for plates. The bed, tailgate were rusted pretty bad. The rear bumper was rusted in two, split by where the ball goes. I found out the frame had been repaired right behind the cab on the drivers side. All the tires are crap and have sidewall bulges that are huge! The list keeps going, theres so many things that need repaired. But its ok because i love doing it and its a toyota. The engine, transmission and 4 wheel drive all seemed to work good at the time of purchase.

What I have replaced since then:

-thermostat and coolant
-replaced bed w/one in better shape
-rear bumper (custom tube steel with reciever)
-rear shocks( waiting for used front ones from a friend)
-sway bar links
-lower ball joints
-had a cat. conv. welded on (passed echeck and got plates)
-plugs, wires, pcv valve, 2 oil changes, air filter
-I might be forgetting something...

Things i want to fix (in the order i want to do it)

-brakes (i keep getting are in the lines??)
-change all gear oil (it shifts rough esp. 1st to 2nd when cold??)
-exhaust manifold gasket (has slight leak)
-upper ball joints
-tie rod ends
-exhaust
-diff lockers

Of course i will always want to do more but thats my list for now. I have a friend who is doing a SAS on a 92 yota so i will have all his IFS parts for spares or use if they are better than mine now. Thats where i got my bed bumper and shocks! I just recently got some tires from craigslist, 30x9.50x15 BFG's but have to wait for funds to mount them since i am on a very limited budget. But this truck is my daily driver for now so everything is very critical. I must make sure i keep it running decent and relaible. So far it has done very well, no major issues!! Brakes goin to the floor is about it, but still having some stopping power until pressure builds back up.

I apologize for the long story. I just wanted everyone to have a good idea of who i am and why i am here. I would appreciate any advice and/or criticism on everything ive said here. Im not an expert mechanic but consider myself skilled and capable of figuring things out. Ive worked on cars and trucks most my life.

I have one question that i have searched for and found nothing on yotatech about it.......Detroit diff lockers? Are they good? http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/diff_detroit.html

Thanks for reading and again I would love to hear a lot of feedback from everyone on yotatech!! You guys are awesome! I will post pics ASAP

KRos_+

I justed wanted to post some pics up.........I call it the bruiser . I plan on painting it all black this summer. Along with bondo on the few rust spots like under the doors and 1 small hole on each fender. And im gonna paint the frame to prevent rust (gotta love Ohio winters!).

KRos_+

I was wondering, how much oil pressure should i be getting? It seems like when the engine is cold it will go above halfway when i rev and it will stay around the first notch at idle. But when engine is warm it drops to near off (no pressure on guage) when idling. And when i rev to say 3k rpm it doesnt go past the first notch.

Seems to me that is too low. Im assuming oil pump is going or i need a thicker oil. Im currently running 10w30 but im considering 10w40 from what i have read on here. Any suggestions or advice would be great! Thanks in advance!

One pic is when engines cold and the other is when its warm. (temp guage indicates)

Badger62811

How hot does it get in the summer? I have to run 20w50 to keep any kind of oil pressure when it's hot. I just have to remember to change it back to 10w30 before winter hits.

tardman91

My oil pressure does the exact same thing. I'm in FL though, where The temp has been in the mid 90s lately. Should I be using a different weight than 10w30?

KRos_+

Lately it has been around 80 degrees, like on my drive home from work. At night it has been goin down to 60s and 50s and i do notice a little more pressure. But not much. I ran 5w30 in the winter and noticed pressure was kinda low but it would stay around the 1st notch and go up while revving.

Ive researched here on yotatech and found a lot of people use different weight oils mostly depending on where they live, outside temp and altitude all play factors in pressure.

Im going to switch to a 10w40 and see if that helps. From what ive read i think it will. Tardman91 i would suggest you do the same or maybe thicker. Ill post back here with results. It may be about a week due to funds. Was kinda hoping to get my tires mounted and balanced and 2 new front shocks. My friend blew one out while doing his SAS. I was gonna have a free used set, oh well gotta spare.

Can anyone tell me if driving like this with low oil pressure will hurt anything? It will only be for about a week longer. I have some Lucas oil stabilizer. Should i put some of that in there?

sb5walker

Trying a 10W40 is a good idea. Either that or a 15W-40 (which is a diesel oil) or Rotella T6 5W-40 which is a full synthetic (Group III - petroleum derived), and is also a diesel oil. Diesel oils are basically gas engine oils with more and better additives, and are fine for our trucks. In fact, since they have more of the ZDDP additive, they are probably better for our engines than most gas engine oils. Of the 10W-40 oils, Valvoline MaxLife is one of the best available.

All three of the oils mentioned will be the same weight at operating temp: 40. They will only be different at cold temperatures (the left-hand number is the weight at 0 deg F). Since the operating temperature of the motor is close to the same in summer as it is in winter, choose an oil with the same right-hand number, regardless of season. Pick that number based on oil pressure at operating temp. Since you have low pressure with the 30, yeah, trying a 40 is a good idea. If that works well for you, then in the winter use the synthetic 5W-40. That Rotella T6 is awesome oil. You can run that all year if you want, since it is every bit as "thick" as a 10W-40 or 15W-40 when motor is at op temp. I've got T6 in my truck right now and it's doing great.

Leave the additives out of the oil. Just choose a good oil and use only that.

Best all-around oil filter is the Purolator PureONE PL20195 - it filters finer particles than any other filter out there and has great flow. This thread has a more oil filter detail than you probably want to know, lol:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...filter-190242/

drmix

Might have to try the rotella on the next oil change. Ive heard alot of good things about it

tardman91

What does the rotella cost compared to most regular oils?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Welcome to Yotatech

:wabbit2:

drmix

From what I remember it was about the same price as all the other oils. I seen it at walmart they always got it in the big gallon jug. I think it was less than $20

sb5walker

It's about the same as any quality oil. A bargain when you consider it's full synthetic. Wally World probably has best prices, but I've seen it at Advanced & Autozone for close to the same, and occasionally on sale for cheaper.

The Rotella T3 15W-40 is a very good conventional oil for even cheaper.

MaxLife consistently gets good reports over on bobistheoilguy. It's a syn blend that performs as well as many of the Group III synthetics.

aviator

Welcome to the family...
Nothing wrong with your gauge that operation is completely normal.

As for the oil I generally use Mobil1 10w30 or a house brand version of it (made by Mobil which sells for a few bucks less). I have used RotellaT 10w30 in the past but it can be hard to find. I also use a product called "Engine Restorer" (comes in a black and silver can) about every other change, it swells the seals, and quiets the lifters. It seems to improve the drive-ability and add some power as well.
I used some 15w50 aviation oil one change because i had some lying around the hanger and while it worked I would'nt go that thick again I found my mileage went down.
I'd stick with the 10w30 the book calls for unless you live in a very cold or hot area then change as the manual specifies. For Ohio I'd just go with the 10w30.

KRos_+

Thanks for all the input everyone! Very helpful info. I think i will stick to a conventional oil. Sb5walker, I think I will try some Rotella 10w40 or 15w40 and see what that does glad to know wally mart has it for cheap! lol. As Ive mentioned before theres alot of mixed reviews on engine oils LOL. Everyone seems to have there preference. Aviator, Im glad to hear you think theres nothing wrong with my truck on the oil aspect, just one less thing i have to worry about fixing.

What about gear oil?

Last weekend i changed my rear differential oil. It looked like it hadn't been changed for years! It had quite a bit of metal filings in the oil. So now im concerned that my gears are bad. Should i be?

In the FSM it calls for straight 90w GL-4 or GL-5 when the outside temp is above 0 F degrees. And 80w90 when the temp is below 0 F degrees. I could only find 80w90 GL-5 at advance auto parts. So i put that in there and it seems to be fine 1 week later. Should i put straight 90w instead? Since it may be warn more than normal and my outside temps are way above 0 LOL.

And what about transmisson gear oil?

I really wanna change it soon. It shifts rough and doesnt like going into first gear all the time. And from what ive read here, it needs changed. Or the little rubber boot around the shifter needs replaced. Ive seen alot of ppl on here use MT90 gear oil (cant remember the brand of hand, Red something lol). And others use the FSM recommended 75w90 GL-4 or GL-5. Which is what i was gonna use. Any suggestions on gear oil and why it may be shifting rough?

Thanks again everyone! Im very happy to be a part of the Yotatech Family!

sb5walker

The spec for either a GL-4 or GL-5 in the tranny is a rare case where Toyota messed up, imo. GL-5 oils contain an EP additive that in many cases causes the synchos to slip, leading to very hard shifting. You're much better off using a GL4. Best choices are Amsoil MTG or Red Line MT-90, both excellent synthetic oils. I'm using the Red Line now which is working very well, but I think I'll switch to the Amsoil next time since the Red Line is a Group V ester, which tend to absorb moisture. The Amsoil is a Group IV PAO that will last longer without absorbing as much water, which is better for a gearbox oil that doesn't get changed too often. In fact the Amsoil should outlast any other gear oil by a substantial margin.

The only widely available conventional GL4 I've heard of is a Sta-Lube 85W-90 available at most NAPAs. It'll work fine in the summer, and in temperate climates in the winter, but for cold temps I wouldn't recommend it. Gear oils get VERY thick in cold temps, especially the conventional ones, and the Sta Lube is already thicker than the 75W-90 synthetics that are the best choices.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=328917

KRos_+

GL-4 or GL-5 may be my mistake, They may have just said GL-4 in the trans and GL-4 or 5 in the diff. Sorry.

It sounds like i wanna run Redline MT 90. Where can i get that at locally? And how much per quart usually? Same with Amsoil MTG? Hopefully walmart has it lol

sb5walker

No, not your mistake, I'm pretty sure the owners manual and possibly the fsm do suggest GL4 or GL5 for the tranny. I just wouldn't recommend the GL5. But absolutely DO use the GL5 in the differentials, they need the EP additive. You can use either oil in the transfer case.

KRos_+

OK so Im gonna try and go with the Amsoil MTG (80w90 GL-4 i think) or if i can find Pennzoil 80w90 GL-4 Gearplus i might try that which ever is cheapest and easily available. Thats for the tranny.

As for the differentials, I still think i wanna go up to a 90w GL-5. Like the FSM calls for. I dont feel safe with 80w90 in there when its warm outside. And with the metal i found in the last fluid Id feel better with thicker oil.

And for the front diff and transfer case, Would 75w90 GL-5 be ok? I bought a qt when i was gonna do my rear diff but realized it was wrong. I think the front diff only takes a little mor than a qt. if i remember correctly.

Thanks for the link and the advice sb5walker!

KRos_+

I figured why start a new thread. THis is my thread and it will have good questions and good info from good people.



Ive had an intermittent problem that has come back and wont go away. A couple months ago i lost my pedal( like having air in the lines) But pressure would come back and id have some stopping power. Atleast in the front. NEver felt like i had brakes in the rear. Nose dived all the time. But a week ago i lost pedal and would have to go to the floor to stop with no locking up or any real stopping power. NEVER lost any fluid.

Earlier today (or yesterday since its after 12am!!) I changed the brake pads on both sides. They were paper thin, basically no pad left! AS soon as i split the calipers fluid drained out and completly drained the master cylinder. Is this normal?? Happened on both sides? The second side i did (drivers side) i took the line off the back of the caliper and fluid just drained the m/c dry. I know i need do benc bleed the M/C but dont know how. The FSM says how to bleed the master with it in the truck...... WIll this work as well?? ITs what im gonna do if no one responds to this....


WHen the engines off and i pump the pedal it goes to the floor with very little pressure. SOmetimes it will build up pressure but slowly loses it in seconds. WE only bled the front calipers and they only trickled out fliud. No real pressure! Im also going to check and adjust the rear drums tomorrow. ALong with bleeding everything and put a used(better condition) master cyl. on. HOW do i bench bleed The M/C?? I have searched everywhere on here and no one explains how to bench bleed. Found some youtube vids of bench bleeding other kinds of masters but not toyotas

Im also going to try and adjust the pushrod in the booster.

Im gonna start doing this in about 10hrs from this post....Any help and tips before or while im doing it would be very much appreciated!!! Thanks you guys !! Im gonna try and take some pics 2morrow of what im doing!!

KRos_+

Also need to know if the block of wood under the pedal is neccesary? If so will a 2x4 be good? Ive seen some on here use a block to prevent M/C damage. But then Ive heard other people need pedal to go all the way to the floor to get enough pressure thru the lines. Ive been using a 2x4, and not getting pressure to the front. Im thinking i have bad M/C...... Would love to hear from others what they think on this!! Thanks again to anyone that can help me! This has to get fixed today!!!!