DrCreosote

I thought I fixed my click-no-start problem, but it has happened again.

1990 4Runner 3VZE

In the last six months, I've replaced the starter, the battery cables (with welding cables), and the battery. I've checked and re-checked my connections and everything feels tight.

As it was before, a simple jump start fixes the problem. I even shut down and restarted immediately without the jump start and it fired right up.

Just because I've replaced everything doesn't mean I think it's perfect and without fault. The starter is on warranty, so there won't be a cost involved, just time fixing it.

Is this going to be a starter contact thing? Are there some ultra durable starter contacts I can buy as replacements that won't do this again in a few months? Is it possible my new battery doesn't have the amps to push it?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

When you up graded your battery cables did you also do the negative ones as well??

Since you have access to welding cable and should be able to crimp on lugs .

Run a ground cable direct to the bottom starter bolt.

I don`t need to remind you to have the negative terminal off the battery while doing this.

I see a starter replaced to fix another problem it works while every thing is all new a few months down the road your having the same issue go figure

I am brutal on starters and batteries but have no real problems once all the starting circuit has been upgraded.

Could it be the solenoid contacts maybe one just never knows if they are pretty much still there in a cost saving measure they are not replaced.

SnowVan

Is this problem occurring with you using the clutch AND the Cancel clutch? Or does it only happen when using clutch? If it is clutch only, it could be a problem with the cancel button!! (I don't want to open a new can of worms but I have had problem before..)

DrCreosote

It's an automatic. I've wondered if it is the neutral switch and tried moving the shifter through the ranges but that didn't seem to help. It happened again today, so now it's two days in a row. I'm nervous about turning it off when I go anywhere.

I'll try a ground cable to the bottom bolt of the starter. If it's a grounding problem, that should certainly help.

DrCreosote

I tried hitting it with a hammer and it worked. Is that a clue that I can use to determine the problem? I'm not going to replace the shroud until I get the problem worked out and will keep a hammer with me, but I would still like it to work properly. Any ideas, or just replace the darn thing? Could it be a heat issue? I noticed it is very close to the exhaust system. When I thought about it, I never have had this problem when the truck is cold. Would a pail of water help?

DrCreosote

Update:
I had the battery tested and that was the culprit. Somehow it created enough voltage but not the right amperage. (unless I misunderstand, which is likely) The parts store load tested it and replaced it on warranty and now all is well.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

So do you think all the beating on the starter helped ??

I am thinking if I have a bad starter it might be good to beat on the battery till the starter admits it is not as good as it was in it`s younger days.

I hope the new battery fixes the problem for good.

kidd79

I bought a 93 toyota 4x4 pickup from a guy. He noted that the starter needed a "little" tap with a pocket knife, or a screw driver sometimes to start the truck. Well after doing a bit of investigating, i found that it was a little loose. The bolts that hold the starter onto the side of the motor/tranny, were in fact stripped out. So the starter being loose on the side, isn't making a good ground. I'm going to helicoil the bolt holes when i get a chance to. As for now, a pocket knife tapping the back of the starter gets it going when it decides to not crank. But deal cells in batteries will shut you down everytime. Stupid dead cells.