Installing a new clutch
#1
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Installing a new clutch
Don't have any big questions but I'm in the middle of changing out my clutch and needed a place to vent and rehash the process. Just finished for the day and I am beat. My wonderful girlfriend just scrubbed me down in the tub and I feel a bit better.
Let me just say, I have never done a clutch before or even dropped a transmission. I like to work on my own cars for the experience and to fulfill my ongoing need for self sufficiency. When my clutch went out, I was actually a bit excited by the prospect of installing a new one. Ordered a marlin clutch kit and fly wheel, and also went ahead and got my self an electric impact wrench as a late xmas present. That being said, I know this process will take me about 3-4 times as long as it will the 2nd or 3rd time I do this. I'm cool with that. I feel pretty good that I'll finish this project tomorrow, but if not I have a transmission jack until Tuesday.
My sources of information for this job...
Haynes Manual-pretty crappy
FSM-pretty good
4x4 wire write up-A little vague but solid method
Yotatech-The most usefull
Toyota Truck Forum on Toyota Nation-Helpful
Heres what I have done so far...
-Disconnected the shifter and transfer shifter. It took me a whole to get the shifter out. Figured out there is a sweet spot to push down on to get it all the way so you can twist it, and then out it pops.
-Dropped the rear drive shaft.
-Took out the front drive shaft
-Removed all the wired connections.
-Removed the starter. This was surprisingly easy. Just take of the wheel and go through the little access panel.
-Removed the clutch slave(release) cylinder.
-Removed the transmission cross member. Go impact wrench!!!!
-Removed all 7 transmission to engine bolts. The infamous top 2 weren't that bad. I used about 3 feet of extensions and my impact wrench, boom done.
--Only problem I have right now is the bracket that connect the exhaust to the transmission. The bolt that connects the ring is so rusted I can't get a wrench on it. I got both of the bolts out of the transmission, just not the support(ring) that connects to the exhaust. I might just cut it off with my sawzall.
So right now the transmission is completely disconnected and ready to come out. Then I get to play with the clutch, and then put it all back together.
Cheers
ps If your reading this months from now and have questions, feel free to PM me and I will be happy to help.
Let me just say, I have never done a clutch before or even dropped a transmission. I like to work on my own cars for the experience and to fulfill my ongoing need for self sufficiency. When my clutch went out, I was actually a bit excited by the prospect of installing a new one. Ordered a marlin clutch kit and fly wheel, and also went ahead and got my self an electric impact wrench as a late xmas present. That being said, I know this process will take me about 3-4 times as long as it will the 2nd or 3rd time I do this. I'm cool with that. I feel pretty good that I'll finish this project tomorrow, but if not I have a transmission jack until Tuesday.
My sources of information for this job...
Haynes Manual-pretty crappy
FSM-pretty good
4x4 wire write up-A little vague but solid method
Yotatech-The most usefull
Toyota Truck Forum on Toyota Nation-Helpful
Heres what I have done so far...
-Disconnected the shifter and transfer shifter. It took me a whole to get the shifter out. Figured out there is a sweet spot to push down on to get it all the way so you can twist it, and then out it pops.
-Dropped the rear drive shaft.
-Took out the front drive shaft
-Removed all the wired connections.
-Removed the starter. This was surprisingly easy. Just take of the wheel and go through the little access panel.
-Removed the clutch slave(release) cylinder.
-Removed the transmission cross member. Go impact wrench!!!!
-Removed all 7 transmission to engine bolts. The infamous top 2 weren't that bad. I used about 3 feet of extensions and my impact wrench, boom done.
--Only problem I have right now is the bracket that connect the exhaust to the transmission. The bolt that connects the ring is so rusted I can't get a wrench on it. I got both of the bolts out of the transmission, just not the support(ring) that connects to the exhaust. I might just cut it off with my sawzall.
So right now the transmission is completely disconnected and ready to come out. Then I get to play with the clutch, and then put it all back together.
Cheers
ps If your reading this months from now and have questions, feel free to PM me and I will be happy to help.
Last edited by drshoebocks; 01-13-2008 at 02:22 PM.
#2
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Sounds like you did a good job of researching it all. Looks like your exactly on the right path. What you do w/ that exhaust bracket is up to you. Mine is still on my transmission but theres no clamp on the exhaust.
The fun part is getting the transmission back in! But I've done this job 5 times now the first 4 by myself w/ out a tranny jack so it CAN be done! =)
The fun part is getting the transmission back in! But I've done this job 5 times now the first 4 by myself w/ out a tranny jack so it CAN be done! =)
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You will find that the most fun you will have is sliding the tranny back in after the new clutch is installed, but if you have a true transmission jack this will be easy for you, compared to those of us who were too cheap to actually get one
#4
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hope you got the alignment tool.
Deathcouger helped me (actually did most all the work) and we did it in 4 hours. from lift-to test drive.
for that bolt, i would grind it off, rather than sawzaw. *much faster*
i replaced my
pilot bearing
throwout b"
rear tranny seal
engine main seal
fly-wheel-clutch. and at 1st, it was a bit nioisy, rough, but now its smooth and quiet.
Deathcouger helped me (actually did most all the work) and we did it in 4 hours. from lift-to test drive.
for that bolt, i would grind it off, rather than sawzaw. *much faster*
i replaced my
pilot bearing
throwout b"
rear tranny seal
engine main seal
fly-wheel-clutch. and at 1st, it was a bit nioisy, rough, but now its smooth and quiet.
#5
Yeah I just did mine too and its a good ideal to replace that rear main seal while your in there. Dont forget to clean the flywheel and pressureplate with brakecleaner before installing. Good luck and good write up!
Andy
Andy
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Be sure you get the throw-out bearing in the correct way. If you have trouble getting the pilot bearing out, fill behind it with candle wax then use a similar-sized round object (socket extension, etc., to pound in and the wax will force the pilot bearing out. If it's particularly rusted, like mine was, you may need to PB Blaster the hell out of it for a few hours first.
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once you are sliding the trans back in, i use two c-clamps to pull the trans into the engine. tighten a little, wiggle trans, and repeat. make sure you are level and it will slide right in. i know it has been discussed, but make sure the throw out bearing is on right, and the clutch disc is on right, and put some grease on the rubber part of the rear main seal to prevent dry start wear. swearing does help...
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Speaking of swearing....
I've been stuck trying to get the transmission out. Cut the exhaust bracket connector thing. Tried pulling it back....nothing doing. Wiggled it, played with the angle of the transmission and engine, etc. Just realized there is one bolt left, coming from the engine side into the transmission. WTF, had no idea about that one. Sprayed it with some lubricant and I'm taking a break.
I've been stuck trying to get the transmission out. Cut the exhaust bracket connector thing. Tried pulling it back....nothing doing. Wiggled it, played with the angle of the transmission and engine, etc. Just realized there is one bolt left, coming from the engine side into the transmission. WTF, had no idea about that one. Sprayed it with some lubricant and I'm taking a break.
#9
For difficult bolts, rusted bolts, use a six sided socket. The 12 point sockets will easily round off the heads. Also, PB Blaster from Wally World is great because it dissolves rust that WD-40 can't do. An overnight soak or two is worth the wait on rusted fasteners. Reassemble with anti-seize lubricant.
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There were two bolts facing towards the transmission from the engine. Got those off and the transmission pulled away easily. Now I have to learn how to use a transmission jack so I can pull thing completely out from underneath. Beer and football break. Thanks for the help.
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Well I stopped last night after my post. I was a bit frustrated that I spent most of the day clowning around with a transmission that had two bolts still attached. Lesson-If the transmission won't budge, double check all bolts!!!!!Duh
Today I easily got the transmission off and then all the clutch components. Just got finished taking the pilot bearing off. I used a 1/4 inch extension attached to a 5/16th socket and backed the area behind the bearing with wax. Smacked with a hammer then kept adding wax. Took about 6-7 times of refilling with wax and then smacking the socket back in. Not to bad.
Now I'm searching on how to install the pilot bearing, so I don't break it when I install it. Should have the clutch done in the next hour and then I'll start bolting the transmission up. I bet that will be fun...hehehe.
Today I easily got the transmission off and then all the clutch components. Just got finished taking the pilot bearing off. I used a 1/4 inch extension attached to a 5/16th socket and backed the area behind the bearing with wax. Smacked with a hammer then kept adding wax. Took about 6-7 times of refilling with wax and then smacking the socket back in. Not to bad.
Now I'm searching on how to install the pilot bearing, so I don't break it when I install it. Should have the clutch done in the next hour and then I'll start bolting the transmission up. I bet that will be fun...hehehe.
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Well at this point I'm going to try and have Marlin refund my money and then find a machine shop to resurface for me tomorrow. Really thought I was going to get this done tonight. Anyone know a good machine shop in Chicago? I've got a couple leads, but know one is open now. The saga continues....
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Humboldt Park
I'm going to call Napa tomorrow, since I have their tranny jack as well. By the way, totally unrelated, but are the Taco rims plug and play compatible?
I'm going to call Napa tomorrow, since I have their tranny jack as well. By the way, totally unrelated, but are the Taco rims plug and play compatible?
#20
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ya i got a deal on them they only had 500 miles on them when the kid got new rims and tires. so i got near new rims and tires for $600. o the only thing is it has to be 4x4 to 4x4 for the rims to work