Slowly but surely, I'm replacing every single part on my truck~





Since the new fuel pump, distributor & plug wires last week & the FPR yesterday, I've notice quite a difference in power, particularly below 2000 rpm.

Has anyone replaced a fuel pulsation damper without removing the plenum? I HATE the though of pulling mine just for this....

 

Still trying to figure out a way to do this without removing the plenum. I think it can be done, but it's going to be a PITA.

 

I'm looking to replace my fpr soon, did you follow the fsm or were you able to do it without taking of the plenum? Looks like the fsm says to take off a lot of stuff for this. Also, where did you find the Denso fpr?

 

I figured out how to take the old FPR off (bend the nipple out of the way) & install the new on without taking off the plenum. VERY SLIGHTLY bend the nipple & you can screw it on without removing anything!

STILL haven't figured out a way to do this with the Pulsation Damper~

 

I'm pretty sure that you need to remove the plenum and the aft fuel-line cross-over to remove the Fuel Pulsation Damper. Otherwise, you can't get a wrench on the FPD.

At least, that's how I did it. Once you've removed the plenum a few times, its ... oh, who am I kidding? It's still a bunch of work.

 

I know this thread is old, but I just had to replace my FPR and bending the nipple worked. I used a 5/32" allen wrench that fit into the nipple just right. And all I had to do was remove 2 bolts for the bracket that holds the cables down that go to the throttle body. Saved a lot of work and time!! Thanks.

 

I have to replace my pulsation damper too and wish I knew about this bugger two years ago when doing a head job. I believe the damper absorbs the impact of fuel in the rail when fluid increases in velocity. You know the pipes under your house when you turn off the water the pipes under the house rattle and move? It’s because fluid is flowing and suddenly stops. There is no where for that energy to go so the pipes move. Most houses have a damper which consists of a piston (like the internals of a master cylinder) in a length of pipe. When the water suddenly stops it has somewhere to continue. It pushes the piston down the pipe thus decreasing velocity to zero (there’s a spring at the end of the piston to absorb the shock). The pulsation damper is similar in theory. The force of the gas would cause the fuel rail to move and possibly unseat fuel injectors without it.

Two years ago I refurbished my fuel injectors minus cleaning the internals. Now that I am seeing 12 port injectors for under $200.00 I am thinking of installing them also, Osetigers on eBay that are a direct install. Being that I have to remove the upper intake, which is not much fun, to replace the blimey pulsation damper, I was thinking of installing completely rebuilt injectors that are newer in design. What would you all do?

The pulsation damper I found by Herko do not have the screw and the internals are made of Viton, a much better material than stock and it was $62.00.

The placement of the damper couldn’t have been in a worse place. It’s like driving a Molotov Cocktail. I was praying I was just smelling things, but I could see the drip, plus the performance of the vehicle tanked and fuel economy with it. At 14 degrees timing, 85 octane fuel, new plugs and wires I got 230 miles per tank. If I remember right it fell to 190.

What do you all think of DOA’s larger throttle body? Does Toyota make a larger throttle body for the 3vze in another vehicle? I would bore it out myself and fab up a butterfly valve, but I live in a dumb apartment now since my house was stolen, yes stolen, not foreclosed on. Watch your identity and signature. I was in an accident and was taken advantage of.

What do you guys think? I don’t mind being a guinea pig. I would like to get some more power and economy out of it. My speed demon will be either a Lotus Elan 2+2, a race prepped Triumph or with a little luck a Jensen Interceptor.

On on another note, my dash just cracked since I had to mothball it outside. Anyone ever fix that successfully?

Cheers

 

Unless you plan on making some major internal upgrades, I would personally stick with the stock Toyota fuel injectors and stock throttle body.

Getting more power out of the 3VZ-E (without totally compromising reliability) takes quite a bit of money. A larger throttle body or "higher capacity injectors / better spray injectors" really are not worth it unless you have modified the engine in such a way (porting, larger valves, etc,) that those upgrades will have a positive effect.

 

Thank you for your voice of reason. I haven’t worked on anything in awhile and I miss it.
I figured the original injectors were just fine. After I did the head job and timing belt and other odds and ends the car drove great. I got a few miles per gallon increase and she purred just right. The car still runs ok with s leaky damper, but it’s super dangerous, like driving a Molotov Cocktail I previously mentioned. I didn’t drive it all summer.
Anyhow the engine was never designed to be modified for performance upgrades, nor would it even be a good choice even if it could given the amount of work just to get at anything. Hiding the rocker arm covers underneath the intake manifold was a bad design choice. Many cars of that era had the intake manifold cover rocker arm covers. My folks’ 1993 Explorer, if I remember right had the intake right between the covers, but there was lots of stuff that went over them or mounted in a way that covered them partially. Even modern engines are not conducive to changes that would not require some serious surgery.
While I have the upper plenum and other things removed should I change anything else that when fails becomes dangerous?

thanks ,
Marc