Kolton5543

I think what you need to do right now is check injector signal. If the truck can start and run briefly on the cold start injector then you likely have enough pressure in the rails for it to at least try to continue to run. That information alone is enough to check for injector pulse. If you don't have it then you know where to start looking. If you do then continue with trying to check rail pressure. Most part stores will rent a noid light set. A multi meter with an audible continuity check mode will also work. Set a meter to continuity. Connect one lead to engine ground and the other to the signal wire on an injector. Crank the engine and listen for the meter to beep briefly. It should. Don't try to just check for ground there as a meter isn't quick enough to update the display. Then continuity check usually is fast enough. I've done it many times and it's not let me down yet.

Saturn

Small fuse box behind the battery in the engine bay. Labeled EFI

cracker1

Will check the injectors with the continuity meter. Will check the EFI relay by the battery as well. Thanks to all for your valuable information... will get this running one way or another....

akwheeler

I am confused, no fuel out of the regulator... but now you are checking the injectors? It sure sounds like your fuel pump is not supplying enough pressure or can't keep up with that pressure when you try to start or you have a clogged/pinched line or filter. you can "get sprayed" with 5 psi but your injectors need 38-44 at the injector and it take good flow to maintain that pressure.
But like Scope said, disconnect the return line and put it in a bucket and run you pump, no flow means check your fuel supply!

cracker1

That is what I asked, can the fuel pump fail under a load or pressure? I took the fuel pump out and bench tested it, it showed around 55psi..... New fuel filter has been installed previously.

RAD4Runner

O.P.,
May I suggest you post ONE single update on mostest current status that lists, in as few essential words as possible (concise), things that you actually see, hear, smell, feel & measure, compared to what you know normal conditions should look, feel, smell, measure.
Examples:
FSM says fuel pressure should be this, but you actually measure that.
NormaL plugs should be dry but yours may have fuel residue (meaning no spark)

This way people who are donating free time to help would not have to read your whole thread, or exchange questions and answers that will only make your thread more confusing, lengthy and less appealing for people who may otherwise want to help.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have never had a bad COR. 22re and 3.0 share the same operations. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-22re-270857/ If you are suspecting your injectors, a continity test is not always accurate. A lesson I learned the hard way. Corrosion will not let all the voltage or current pass to operate the injector. The Noid light will let you know if the signal is getting from the computer to the injector. Even if it flashes it could be not getting enough voltage.

Since it was running when you first started working on it, I suspect something has not gotten hooked up correctly.

cracker1

Finally figured out most of the problem. The bottom pully on the crank had worn out where the key way is, allowing the timing to move ALOT... never seen that happen before. But it cured most of the problems.