Sturmcrow

I am looking at the eBay steering kits that come with all the tie rod ends, balljoints, pitman arm, and idler arm for $140 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-T100-...baf964&vxp=mtr). I know that this is super-cheap, even compared to getting Moog or Beck-Arnley from Rockauto (~$270, not including idler). I've read a few threads on the forum where other folks have used these parts, but have not found a single post where someone used them and had troubles with them. That seems odd, as I'm sure I could find at least one post from someone hating on almost any other part out there.

Has anyone had a bad experience with these? I do like that they are greasable. I may go offroad a few times a year, at most, with the stock size tires. I don't see the need for high-performance parts on a 20-year old truck, but I also don't want to die in a fiery wreck after a balljoint fails at 65 mph.

I was planning to just swap out a couple tie rod ends, but there is a bit of play in one of the ball joints as well. With this kit, I can get all new parts in the wearable parts of the steering, which combined with a new steering damper and some decent shocks, should have the truck handling pretty well, I hope. I also would like to swap out all the steering parts I need at one time, to only have to pay for one alignment.

Of course, if I swap out all I've mentioned already, I'm probably going to want to do the control arm bushings too. Are those a problem to deal with?

'92 Xtra Pickup, V6, 4WD

WHAHAHAJR

There's alot of threads about these. They're cheap junk that won't last.

Go oem if you can afford it otherwise moog etc...

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

IIRC there were just as many negatives as positives for these kits. mainly, it's because 90% of the time these parts are chinese-made and quality control is not so great. personally, i would recommend spending a tad more and going with beck-arnley parts - which are typically re-branded oem equivalent, japanese-made parts (like the "555" brand). when I bought my beck-arnley ball joints I got mine from Amazon, which had better prices than basically everywhere I looked for them, and they were the 555-brand. you'll find many opinions on beck-arnley/555/japanese vs moog, but I chose japanese parts. i do like inexpensive, but usually draw the line once i find out they're chinese-made parts.

i cannot comment on control arm bushings, but from what I've seen they are not an easy task and I've been putting it off on my truck - and my truck needs them badly on drivers side after the last couple wheeling trips. i was actually planning to try and find a used set of control arms in good condition, swap new bushings onto those, then swap them onto my truck and go get an alignment. seemed like a faster option vs having my truck on jack stands for a while, but then again i hardly drive my truck anymore these days.

Sturmcrow

This thread, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ng-kit-102596/
and another by iamsuperbleeder both give good reviews of these cheap Chinese kits. After spending another 20 minutes searching, I still cannot find anything bad said about them. I am fairly new to YT, so all of my knowledge comes from what I can find, not from what I've read in the past.

I had read before about the Beck-Arnley being essentially OEM equivalent. I've also had good experience with Moog in the past and like that their components are greasable. My only problem with those products is that my budget does not permit me to splurge and spend $300 on steering parts (plus another $250 on shocks). At the moment, it is either the cheap chinese parts, or subpar steering for another year.

I guess I could try to get the lifetime alignment deal from Firestone so that I do not have to do all of the steering parts at once. It might be easier to convince the lady-friend to let me spring for the Moog parts if I do it a little at a time.

b4wheeler

iTrader: (1)

I put one of these cheap ass kits on my truck and after sitting in the garage for a few months (no road time at all, not even twenty feet) All the boots had cracked and split....
I had to replace all the boots with urethane.
I would at least buy Autozone or Advance auto stuff and pay the price.... Maybe one side at a time if you cant afford the whole thing. But don't buy any of these cheap, low buck kits... You will end up redoing the work again in short time...

Sturmcrow

The suggestion to look at Advance was a good one. I still need to check Autozone. Everything in the kit, getting the cheapest parts that Advance has, and except for the idler, would be right at $200. It's quite a bit more, but those parts all have lifetime warranties. I assume that if one goes bad, the "count the threads" technique of alignment should work fairly well, since they are the same part.

I would get the idler from Autozone of course. The FA5040 is not the one recommended for my truck by Autozone, but hopefully it will fit OK in case I want to upgrade to some bronze bushings in the future.

snobdds

Don't skimp on steering stuff or ball joints...if you value your life.

Remember it's too expensive to be cheap. If you have to do the job twice, it cheaper to go OEM the first time.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

x2 on that. Save up and do it right the first time. I've been working on old trucks for over 20 years and I have two rules:

1) don't skimp on quality, either go OEM or a trusted aftermarket brand when it makes sense (I'm ok with NAPA ball joints, but will only go oem on sensors, ignition, oil filters, etc.). Safety and reliability come at a price.

2) whenever possible, if you're already digging to an area, replace other likely worn or at risk parts to save on overall labor and increase reliablity. In other words, if all of the coolant hoses are the same age and one fails, it's better to replace them all at once and do a thorough flush vs. waiting for the next one and the next one to fail one at a time. I had to redo my A-arm bushings, while I was in there, I replaced the ball joints, sway bar links and shocks at the same time -- extra $$ in parts up front, but all had to be removed anyway and all were worn.

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

" I've also had good experience with Moog in the past and like that their components are greasable. "

x2 on that, Sturmcrow. I have never really liked sealed parts when you can buy Moog with grease fittings and squeeze the moisture out
with fresh grease to make the part last longer. Grease.... But I'm not saying that sealed parts are bad either.

RobD

I'll echo what the others said, pay for the better stuff and not worry. Or you could have that constant nagging in the back of your head. I use either Beck-Arnley or OEM, when I can afford it.

Pay now or pay later. Do it once, do it right.

I'll come up with more cliches later.

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

Also, Stanz brings up another great point:

2) whenever possible, if you're already digging to an area, replace other likely worn or at risk parts to save on overall labor and increase reliablity. In other words, if all of the coolant hoses are the same age and one fails, it's better to replace them all at once and do a thorough flush vs. waiting for the next one and the next one to fail one at a time. I had to redo my A-arm bushings, while I was in there, I replaced the ball joints, sway bar links and shocks at the same time -- extra $$ in parts up front, but all had to be removed anyway and all were worn.

If you are there already, put new quality parts in when you are doing the front end. It would suck to replace only one thing and then later on, have something else break/wear out that you should have replaced the first time you were there doing the other thing. Right on, Stanz....