Hi Everyone,

New on this forum hope somone can give some guidance. So long story abbreviated to alleviate snoredom... 1987 4runner 85-86 22-RE engine. Blew a headgasket, right before I had to leave in July for training with the U.S. Army. Shop I took it to took three attemps to figure out what was making the gasket blow (I did all this over the phone so I really dont know for sure but I think they suck). Needless to say the truck was apart and back together at leat three times before they got that right. So I get back on the 11th of this month and the truck lurches and jerks and basically has no power, and cylinder# 3 sparkplug is covered in soft black soot (not contributing). So I readjusted the valve lash (# 3 was way to tight) to specs fm fsm. Reset the air gap in the distributor, replaced, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and ignition coil. It ran better for a little while (#3 firing again most of the time), but still hesitates/lurches while accelerating (maybe timing?), and recently as of today just cuts off, then on while driving, or off and wont restart for ahwile(seems to happen when truck has been driven awhile, or hot). Motor turns but no spark when this happens. At this point I am thinking signal generator/pickup coil in the distributor or ignitor on coil. I can pick up another dist with pickup coil or ignitor tomorrow from the salvage.

Any Ideas?? I am definitely not Joe Mechanic and am trying to learn to use a multimeter to troubleshoot. That is why I am here to gain knowlege and learn to fix my own truck. Any help appreciated.

 

what is it? 87, 86 or 85? what year ecu?
checked trouble codes? what are they?

 

Not Sure on year Its and 87 but the guy I got it from replaced the engine the distributor has a signal generator that you can still adjust air space on so I think it would have to be 86 or older I think as of 87 no more adjustable air space. The coil is the round oblong one with the ignitor mounted on top. Wish I knew for sure. Ill Try to get som trouble codes. How would I check year ECU?? Thanks for the help

 

Here is how to read the codes

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html

The T and E terminal should be in the drivers wheel well next to the air box. It is yellow, round and is the only one with two ports when you pull off the dust cap. (Cap may have already been removed and lost)

 

Trouble codes are 5,6,10,11 5 flashes -2.5 seconds 6 flashes - 2.5 seconds 10 flashes - 2.5 seconds 11 flashes - 2.5 seconds then 4.5 seconds and the sequence starts over. Hope this helps

 

if it's an 87 22re signalling codes...
5: O2 signal sufficient, but signal unchanged
6: RPM NE signal (crank angle pulse) to ECU- missing while engine is cranking or NE value ofer 1000 in spite of missing NE signal
10: Starter to ECU- missing when vehicle stopped and RPM over 800 rpm
11: Switch signal: NSS (neutral start switch) ON or IDL signal from TPS is OFF when diagnostic test port is jumpered.

to begin with,
start with 11: put the jumper in and turn the key on without doing anything else, that is saying you put the jumper in the test port when the TPS (throttle position sensor) is not showing IDL (idle throttle) to the ECU or the clutch is depressed.
Adjust the TPS, reset the ECU by removing the EFI fuse or battery for 60 seconds, then drive the vehicle and continue with troubleshooting if problems persist.

 

Codes:
5)OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL/OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER SIGNAL

OPEN OR SHORT IN OXYGEN SENSOR OR OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL

6)RPM SIGNAL-NO SIGNAL TO ECU FROM DISTRIBUTOR ("Ne" OR "G") AFTER ENGINE HAS BEEN CRANKED

--DISTRIBUTOR/CIRCUIT

--STARTERSIGNAL CIRCUIT

--IGNITER/IGNITER CIRCUIT

--ECU

10)STARTER SIGNAL--NO "STA" SIGNAL TO ECU UNTIL ENGINE SPEED EXCEEDS 800RPM

--IGNITION SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--ECU

11)SWITCH SIGNALS

IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU

WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED

--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--A/C AMPLIFIER

--TPS/CIRCUIT

--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--ECU

Copy and pasted from http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html

 

sorry, what I said was a little vague....

...and thanks a4runnerfreak- got all that from my chilton's manual... see they are good for something.


start troubleshooting code 11 first. clear the codes by removing the EFI fuse or disconnecting the battery for 60 seconds.
drive the vehicle.
if the vehicle starts acting odd again, pull the codes.
if 11 shows up again, adjust the throttle position sensor and repeat the above steps.
Do NOT depress the clutch or use the Clutch Start Switch to start the vehicle or turn the A/C on AT ANY TIME while the jumper is in the test connector.

 

Ya beat me to it, Abe!

 

Thanks guys Will give it a try and report back.

 

okay... you get the next step ... you know it's coming.

 

I have an idea, BUT you are 1 of the resident 22-re guru's. I don't to step on your toes in your brilliant diagnostic troubleshooting teachings, oh wise long haired 1.....

 

my hair hardly touches my ears... as of late.
oh you... one who is in touch with 'reality'.

 

and trying to portray me as some know-it-all guru ain't gonna fly
I'm wrong nearly, if not more often, than I'm correct...

... but being wrong teaches you alot about being right.

 

This is true, but you DO know a lot 'bout the 22re. But lemme ask you, why don't you want to depress the clutch, or use the clutch start/cancel switch, with the jumper in place?

 

it throws the code

 

start the engine... then insert the jumper. or maybe not... ?

 

sorry, but have to admit, the codes tell you exactly what's going on...
11: Switch signal: NSS (neutral start switch) ON or IDL signal from TPS is OFF when diagnostic test port is jumpered.
operative word being "WHEN"...

 

Well, I know that you don't start the truck when pulling codes. Thought it was common sense not to do that. But have never thought that just pushing the clutch in while trying to pull the codes.....would throw a code. Never crossed my mind, hence the question.

 

So anyway got rid of the number 11 code finally on my 87 4Runner after some trial and error. Thanks a bunch to everyone for the good advices. Also I found lots of good info for anyone with questions about this topic at http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

So anyway running a lot better as I was able to set the timing finally with TPS functioning, but now its starting to jerk and chug again and cuts out then on again. Now throwing 5 and 6 trouble codes. I know 5 is the oxygen sensor, but 6 says rpm NE signal (crank angle pulse) to ECU missing while engine cranking or NE value over 1000 in spite of missing NE signal.

Any insight appreciated

Thanks Guys and Happy New Years