big_blue_goat

I'm replacing my R&P on my 94 toyota with Yukon 4:88s and I have IFS. I've got the parts but now it's starting to become a bit of a mystery as to the best way to go about accessing the fron gearbox. Do I need to remove anything. I know alot of you are SAS advocates, but I can't go down that road... How should I go about doing this?

Thanks.

Josh

mastacox

Do you know anything about setting up a ring and pinion? Because it isn't something you just do with some wrenches and a screwdriver...

olharleyman

mystery sloved
Take them to someone who knows what there doing or you will be taking them later when you have to replace the set you install now. Just a friendily pice of advice better to have them done right the first time rather then having to do them over a second time.

mastacox

Hey, I was just curious is all... You wouldn't believe how many questions get thrown out where the asker has no idea of what he/she might be proposing. It just seemed strange to me that you want to install a R&P set, but don't know how to remove your front diff...

That being said you need to remove your cv shafts, and then you can unbolt the diff, driveshaft, and take it out.

big_blue_goat

thanks. That's all i needed to know. i got a guy locally who was recomended by randys ring and pinion, but when I called him, he said he had done tons of rear end stuff but no toyota IFS stuff. I'm trying to find out how hard it is so i can convince him to help me with it anyway. I wish I knew what I was doing... I've read how to do it...

MudHippy

I talk ya through it, if you need. It's actually much simpler in an IFS axle, than the rear, I've done both many times. First, you have to remove the assembly minus the CV axle shafts and driveshaft. Put it on a bench. Then open the case. I'll assume you have some detailed instructions with the new ring & pinion. They'll have the specific torques, and tolerances, I hope. If not there's a less conventional route to essentially, achieve the same results. I know how it's done on many levels is what I mean. It's not at all difficult, aside from the heavy lifting. It does not take an expert of any shape or form, all of the concepts involved are easy to understand.

86Original

Brian has a point there. I've opened up both my diffs and put lockers in them, but put everything back the way I found it. Had to buy tools to check that I hadn't messed anything up. If I change my R&P's I'm not sure I would do it myself.

If you read at least half of ZUK's gearinstalls.com you will start to get an idea of how to do a gear change. Getting a good contact pattern on the R&P has many subtleties to it.

Good luck!

big_blue_goat

thanks man, that's nice. I'm going to let an experienced cat do it i guess. I still want to know how to doit though, in all essence it's still my project.

86Original

Oops. While I was composing, you replied that you were having someone else do the gear install. Brian & Mud described it well.

Remove:
17mm nuts that hold the CV shaft flanges on,
4 14mm bolts holding the front drive shaft on the flange (open or boxed end needed due to clearance)
4 cross member bolts (19 mm, IIRC)
22mm bolt holding the front half of diff on the cross member
Crossmember

Put a floor jack under the pumpkin, to hold it up

remove the two 19mm bolts holding the back of the diff up to the frame (one has a loose nut and the other has a welded nut)

Lower the diff with the jack

When tightening cover bolts, use thread locking compound.

HTH

edit: when removing the cross member, tap down on the driver's side first (after removing all of the bolts from it). When it's loose, then you can get the passengers side off the diff. But don't get the DS end down too far, else you'll be torquing the bracket on the front of the diff.

ovrrdrive

When I was contemplating doing the gears myself I had a major brainstorm.

I posted in the pirate 4x4 section that I was looking for someone that did an SAS to their truck that had an IFS diff laying around with 5.29's in it that they wanted to sell.

The next morning a guy posted up that he had one that he would ship to me from CA to FL for - get this - $150 total.

I promptly sent him a check and he sent it right away. I got it yesterday.




There are tons of these out there. Chances are that someone has a 7.5" in their garage right now with 4.88's in it that they'll sell you for cheaper than you can get it done for, and you'll have a spare...

big_blue_goat

that's a pretty good idea but I think I'm willing to shell out a little extra to know that I have new Yukon 4.88s cryo'ed by Bobby Long. I might sleep a little better at night. At this point it's just a nightmare and I need to wake up and get this project over with.

mochester

listen man, the kind of questions you're asking, you can not just replace your ring and pinion. what you could possibly do, is replace the whole third member if you were to buy one. i've done the third on the rear on my truck. its pretty straightforward. but as for setting tolerances and backlash and doing the actual installing of the ring and pinion, just take it to a professional dude. if its not set up right, it will chew itself to shreds. if you have the whole third member, be prepared to do a lot of reading and buy everything you'll need (tools, silicone gasket maker, gear oil). be prepared to replace things you aren't expecting to replace. but dont try and install a new ring and pinion into your third member if you dont even know how to get it out in the first place. its a disaster waiting to happen. however easy it is to someone who has done 10 of them, it will be a total gamble for someone like you to try and do (or someone like me for that matter). just buy a whole 3rd member