I know the rear is hanneman, i cant remember the front

 

Few of mine, stock with 1" torson bar crank and trhe swaybar connected.





Going out again tomorrow and will disconect the swaybar first, see what that does.

 

ahahahaha

it was like that when I got it (I swear!) there is another one of those latches on the inside of the door to hold the door closed... ghetto fab to the extreme.

I already cut the tip of my left thumb off on the latch inside the door. luckily I broke the yota wheeling and it's down for repairs so I have a chance to fix that door before wheeling again haha


also forgot to say that my swaybar has been in the back of the truck since I got it

 

 

 

^^^ I like that

 

Hi guys,

Im from Australia and was wondering if you could tell me what is the best way to get flex out of a torsion bar IFS suspension setup? I have a 2" lift from replacement heavy duty torsion bars and have wound them up, and am considering the 1" diff drop to ease the Driveshaft angles. Is there any other way to get more front flex without having to go a replacement 4" lift setup?

will removing the swaybar give me more flex?

thanks

 

I saw more flex with the swaybar removed. I lost a bunch of flex with cranking the Tbars up. Mine are relaxed now. Im planning on adding BJ spacers and relaxing them more. Im supprised how well my front end moves.Up travel is great I just wish i had more down tavel. I am going to look at moving the bump stops down and cutting them in half or getting a harder low profile one.

The tacoma in the pics i posted is as stiff in the front as mine was before i cranked the bars up. It doesnt move much at all. were looking in to new springs for his but he doesnt want it much lower then it is now. If it were me id lower the bars to stock and throw in some bj spacers and remove the swaybar.

 

If you exceed more than the typical 1.5" spacer you will need to source new axles. The outter joint can take added drop but the inner joint cannot take the angle or the extra extention needed.

 

First thing is put the stock bars back in. Stiffer bars do not give lift on our trucks. You simply adjusted the height with the stiffers bars for +2" exactly as you would have for stock bars had you kept them. All the stiffer bars do is make your suspension more stiff. The reason is that the load on the torsion bar does not go up when you adjust the front for more lift, it goes down. (can explain if you like)

I looked into selling my spacers (www.sdori.com) in Australia but there are a lot of differing laws among the regions regarding modifying suspensions. The spacers require a little trimming underneath the a-arm and many said they could not do that there. If you can do this, they will give you more flex.

Also, removing the sway bar will help regardless of set up.

Frank

 

What else can i use? Im running a 4inch lift with a 4inch diff drop. My bars are relaxed and the shocks will go farther down but with the spacer it will be close to maxed.Right now my down travel bumpstop is whats killing it for me. Im going to find a longer shock in the front to go with my new rear set up(63in chevys). I herad soemthing about using a porsche CV shaft on the ifs trucks? any info on that? My friends think im crazy for doing this and not SASing my truck but i like my truck right now and think it just needs small adjustments for what i want to see it able to do.

 

after continuous returns to this thread that never seems to die...i figured i'd go out back quick and snap some pics of my own

poser, backyard flex rules!



oo and look a pic of her first time offroad...man..she cam along ways haha

 

 

here's mine

 

anyone with bj spacers on an IFS bracket lift know what shocks will give me a bit more down travel? uptravel is not an issue because i never get close to bottoming those out.

 

Have you checked to see if your shocks are the limiting factor? On my Trailmaster 4" lift the air shocks I had were fine. They were air shocks but that's another story. With the bracket lift I would look into shorter compression bumpstops and take advantage of more up travel.

Frank

 

Will do. I couldnt find the thread i had started earlier but got it for some reason.

 

yes im a poser
its all stock

 

Back to this for a sec. My uptravel is not an issue at all. I relaxed my bars now to almost the top of the threads. I had to keep it atleast as tall as before. My tires are now new so that added the rubbing factor back to the game. I pounded the pinchweld and the fender was dented up from the old tires so on my camping trip i will see what it does. For some reason the truck still feels way stiffer and way top heavy but i think i need to get used to it again and that my tires were so bald that they were much smaller.They are TSL's now and measure almost 37(36.8). I did a shorter shackle to lower the rear(that now rubs maxed out with a load) so bumpstops will be the next thing i do to the suspension. Im going to Chevys in the rear and bumpstopping the uptravel and for the front Im kinda stuck right now.

I heard there was a porsche CV i can use and because of my now torn boot i think i should just get a set of those. My issue with the truck is the down travel forsome reason my truck just doesnt do much. Up travels great as is and i can stuff the tires in the fender. Any lead on the porshe CV's?When i get back on Sunday night im going to tare in to it. If i cant find anything i will be replacing them with what i have.

 

Ok scrap the porsche idea. I just read about them and for the money im going to autozone and getting a set of remans and moving the boots up tighter so they dont split anymore. I may bump stop the down travel if i end up braking one this weekend. Id like to brake something like a CV for once cause its always big stuff that brakes on my truck when i dont want it to. CV would be nice cause then need to be done anyways.LOL