When I bought my 4Runner a year ago, it did not have a front sway bar. A couple of months ago I picked on up on the cheap along with these quick disconnects from 4Crawler.com. In the end, I ended up pulling off the sway bar again because I like the ride better without. I have had 'moments' on the highway with both installed and removed conditions and there was minimal difference for the emergency handling in my case.

The 4Crawler parts are very well made, but I think I'm going to sell them.

 

Wow! That's genuinely impressive for such a stock-ish setup.

 

Had to bust out the forklift at work today to see where my new-to-me tires rub at - need to bust out the grinder again in a couple spots, like the bumper:


not great, but not bad either. had the front flexed a little more when I lifted the back end, but they came out too dark. rear is limited by the shocks. front is limited by the IFS, hehe. wish i didn't have to put almost 1" crank in the t-bars to get the tires to fit...maybe i'll be able to cut that metal away and get my susp back to where it was with 31s.
Setup: 93 xcab, OME dakar medium duty leafs, OME shocks, stock shackles, bj spacers, no swaybar, 33" toyos.

 

that's far from stock. Not sure what he's running for rear coils. (maybe LC coils?) but the front is a 4" bracket lift running no bump stop extensions.

 

i can post in this section since i have my 88 now

not the best pics but its the best i could do.

88 4x4 xtra cab, 35x12.50's, no lift (i dont think)















^^^^^gotta trim this bed^^^

 

^or just raise the bed with 4x4s that aren't notched out, lol.

 

Yep. 4" bracket lift that sits at about 3 inches after the 4.3 swap. And fj80 coils. No sway bars. no rear shocks. No bumpstops up front, and no rear bumpstop on the drivers side lol

 

thats not exactly the safest setup.. lol

 

Does fine if you dont drive it like a race car. I already drive like a granny, so it works for me. Should be grabbing some fullsize ford shocks this week though

 

yeah, good call. the only problem though is i dont want the bed to sit too high when im not flexin or it might look dumb...ill try it out though just to see

 

that's why I said stockish

bracket lift = stock geometry. No bumpstops (and extra weight) is the only thing in the front offering extra travel.


That would challenge a long-travel setup.

 

How about 2WD flexing while I was cycling my suspension for shock setup and limit straps? LOL

 

epic!!

 

HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!! That is MASSIVE FLEX!!!!!

You have any side shots of that thing?

 

 

That's what it's capable of but remember, it's only 2wd so it really doesn't see that situation in real life very often. It's built more for speed and hauling butt in the desert but that's a nice shot to show it's capabilities. It's on coilover shocks and that picture was taken with everything on the suspension installed but no coils on the shocks so I was able to run the suspension thru it's full travel by hand to check my bumpstops and limit straps and steering and everything...

Oh and it's a 1989 pickup, it's not a tacoma, just has the tacoma front clip on it...


drooped... You can see what I mean, the shocks are there, just no coils...



to fully compressed...








I don't have any shots of it flexing under it's own weight but here's ride height... Someday I'll go do a loading dock with it. I'm waiting to swap in my new rear axle though first.




Rear suspension droops equally as far and is obviously soft too from how low the ride height sits. The rear leafs, shackles, ubolts and mounting hardware will all be for sale here pretty soon though cause I'm going a totally different route with it really soon. The leafs are 62" deaver springs though and require some custom fab to install.

 

awesome truck man! that droop is amazing! one question, whats with the light bar? does it swivel? looks sick though!

 

A little flexing

 

Yes, I just have bolts welded to the cage about 6-8 inches up from where the struts are attached that you can see in some of the pictures. I simply pull the two nuts, slide the struts to the upper bolt, put the nuts back on and it's good to go. Takes just a couple minutes at the most.

I built a light bar for a kid that had a 4 cylinder ranger that was identical to mine and with the light bar folded down you could drive the truck just fine. Flip it up though, you'd have to bang the limiter in 4th, then grab 5th and it had just enough power to hold the speed on flat ground. Any hill would kill it and you couldn't accelorate. It was pretty amazing how noticable the drag from the lights was on his power. So since then I've always had them flip down. I've got the two lights on my bumper to hold me over if it ends up dark till I get to a stopping point and flip up the light bar. The ones up top are a HID converted Hella 4000's. It looks like the sun coming at you at night! Every once in a while on ebay I spot a linear actuator which I want to someday install so that I can flip the lights up with the flip of a switch! That would be pretty damn cool!!!

Look closely here, you can see the second mounting point further up the cage. And yes, the light rack doubles as a lumber rack! LOL



Here's the ranger I was talking about... Similar concept, you can see it's flipped up here and there's a tab lower down for it to be bolted to to flip it down.

 

linear actuators are easy to install, especially if they have an integrated limit switch. all you would need is a few relays and the switch to make it work right. i actually want to do something like that, too. if you want any help with diagrams and wiring stuff, go ahead and ask me... it's my hobby



edit- here's one that'll work nicely, after you weather-proof it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-STROKE-100-LB-...item588c7b6a52