You have to remove the tire, yes. Never tried _not_ removing the tire, but remove it to knock the studs out. You can use a piece of re-bar. I use a steel lightning rod that's about 3-4 feet in length. Also a 5lb hammer or sledge is a must. You won't ever get them with a regular hammer. Just 1 or 2 good blows knocks them right out. I've never used penetrating oil, but we don't have rust either. Should be _very_ easy.

 

1. He said it was fine as is, after he replaced just the seal.
2. A non-ADD diff doesn't have those bearings or bushings.

 

then wahat bearing did i replace in my add diff? stub shaft goes thru the seal and thru a bearing and then into splined gear mounted in the carrier. the carrier has its own bearing that is shimmed for back lash and held in with the carrier bearing cap. what is the needle bearing between the carrier and seal ? toyota part # 90364-33009 (AB1410B). in a non add diff there is a bushing in this location.

 

1. Why are you asking me, when you already know the answer? Second question. Why are you telling me, when I never asked?
2. For the second time, that's not correct. There are no bushings instead of bearings in a non-ADD diff.

 

my question to you is what bearing did i replace and what is it for? im not telling you anything other than the location that it was in and on my non add diff if found a bushing in this location. just for extra info i added that either one can be replaced by removing the shaft and seal. i am intrested in your input on this because after replacing the bearing, shaft and seal i still seam to have some wobble. im refering to theright side of the axle not the side that houses the disconnect ,i believe this tread was about the right side.

 

O.k., I see what you're saying. The bearing you replaced is supposed to prevent some of the play. Evidently, since I will take your word for it, it doesn't prevent all of the play. It's also, and most likely mainly, to prevent wear on the stub shaft(side gear shaft) and the carrier. Since with ADD, the right side stub shaft is always spinning. And since, if one were to use a non-ADD diff without a bearing instead, that would also cause wear on the carrier too. Because, as I'm trying to tell you, a non-ADD diff does not actually have a bushing. What you thought was a bushing by looking at it, is just part of the carrier with grooves cut into it, resembling a bushing. But being non-removable, and instead being an integral part of the carrier, it is not considered to be a bushing. If it were to become excessively worn in that area, you would need to replace the entire carrier.

I'll have a pic showing what I'm describing here shortly. My camera battery is failing to hold a charge these days. So I'm having to constantly recharge it. I know, I need a new one. But until then, some patience is required.

Here's that.

 

Some ifs axle has a needle bearing that supports the axle flange. like mine does which is on the passenger side. The shaft on flange gets worn as well support bearing. This would be a abs set up. A non abs doesn't have such bearing for flange shaft is larger. Which excessive vertical movement will wear a seal quickly. Think of this seal is round vertical movement would be of oblong travel. Usually the specs would be .001 to .010 with most bearing. Which would not be felt too much by hand. Less 1/16 of movement.

 

I just wanted to add something. I had a buzzing sound in my front end, and its not wheel bearings. So I pulled apart my ADD differential to find the internal needle bearings(part #43631A) making grit sound. So if you have off and on vibration with the ADD system look there.

Do I need to do gear backlash if I'm just changing bearings?
Thanks in advance!
By the way, thanks for the diagram, it helps a lot.