BMcEL

Fixed the image link...it's on my server and I made a bunch of changes the other day.

yotasavg

hmmm great info here

yotasavg

where can i find an image like this but for a non-ADD setup? the fsm doesn't seem to have part numbers......???

BMcEL

Non-ADD:



ADD:



And, if anyone's interested, the ADD vacuum setup:

rattlewagon

Welp. It snowed bout 8 inches here last week so I figured its finally time to fix the ole 4wd. Got the seal @ napa for about 12 bucks, spent a couple of hours swapping it out, and my diff holds fluid again. There are a set of roller bearings on the pass side of the diff (43631A ?), but they didnt have any play in them, so I bolted everything back up. So far so good.

rattlewagon

So its been about a month and Id figure id update this. Ive gone on 2 mild off road trips with the truck as well as 100+ miles on the road with the hubs locked and Im not seeing any leaks. Looks like just replacing the seal did the trick.

Buck87

Seal installation tool a 2" nipple
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Dealer seal with dust cover. I like this better than the one at the local parts store that did not have the little skirt to help keep out dirt.
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I removed the bolt splines to make reinstallation easier
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Buck87

Quote:
Originally Posted by rattlewagon
Welp. It snowed bout 8 inches here last week so I figured its finally time to fix the ole 4wd. Got the seal @ napa for about 12 bucks, spent a couple of hours swapping it out, and my diff holds fluid again. There are a set of roller bearings on the pass side of the diff (43631A ?), but they didn't have any play in them, so I bolted everything back up. So far so good.


https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51826159

Thanks Rattlewagon!
I cant really make heads or tails of that photo, but you told me what I need to know... Replace the seal while in the vehicle. This is good news because I have an IRS brace under the in-put flange that makes lowering and replacing the pumpkin a real wrestling match.
I ended up removing the studs and drilling out the splines so that they are just bolted now. No need to lower the Diff.
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__________________
Matt
87 4runner SR5, 5speed, 22r-e

To get Factory Service Manual downloads: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...manual-156129/ Get them while you still can.
My Build Thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f92/...thread-261071/

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Last edited by Buck87; 07-11-2012 at 06:43 PM.

rattlewagon

Glad it could help! That photo was from standing by the passenger door looking into the frame, but it looks like it disappeared , Ill see if I can find it again. Looks like you moved some of yours too?

cred92

I know this is an old thread but I was trying to change that seal but I couldn't get my cv axle past the studs to get the half shaft out of the differential. So maybe somebody can help me how could I press the studs out I thought about a c clamp but couldn't get one in there then tried hammering but couldn't really get a hammer in there.

Any ideas?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I used a piece of 1/2" (about 3' should be enough) round steel stock and put it on the head of the stud and used a 3lb sledge on the other side. Popped em right out backwards. Grind the splines off before you put them back in to make them "quick change" for next time.

cred92

Did you do this while it was on the truck? I'm trying to change the seal on the truck and I'm thinking if I knock out a couple of the studs the axle will drop low enough to get the half shaft out of the diff n change the seal.

Think that sounds like it'll work?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

You can knock the studs out while on the truck, yes. I don't know if you'll be able to get to the seal after half shafts are removed. However after they're removed it's only 3 large bolts and the driveshaft that's holding the front axle/diff up there. It's easier to remove than the rear diff IMO.

cred92

Well I unbolted it n got the cv off the studs and dangling but couldn't get it dropped low enough so that I could pop the shaft that goes into the diff out. I'm jus wondering if I get the studs out will the cv drop far enough to get that out. Like in rattlewagons pic his cv is dangling far enough to get that shaft out.

I'm gonna get a 2 inch PVC n try n make a seal driver out of that

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I don't know man, I can get mine out on flat ground now with the studs knocked out. Makes for easy trail repair.

rattlewagon

Yes, you need to knock at least 3 of the bottom studs out. If you knock them all off and gring the splines off, they will pop out much easier on the trail. But make sure to use loctight or locking fasteners on them.

cred92

How did you knock the studs out I tried with a hammer n couldn't really get a good swing to knock um out

rattlewagon

I used a 3' pipe and a dead blow, spray them with some penetrating oil. Gotta hit it like you want it. Be careful not to damage the threads on the bolts. Use heat if they are really stubborn.

cred92

Lol, did you take the tire off I tried with tire off n shock still in n there was no way I thought about a cclamp but got tired n gave up

lobukbuild

rattlewagon, what did you ever do about your wobble in the shaft? ive noticed a few incorrect suggestions have been posted and was wondering if you got it figured out. that bearing isnot the carrior and is replacable without disassembly. in a non add diff its a bushing . new bearing and shaft will still wobble. also looking for your input on lockers. check my thread: ifs lunchbox locker