cujeeprs

I am in the process of swapping the front IFS gears on my 1994 Pickup, but I have one problem. I can't get the axle shafts out of the housing. I have the compete diff on the bench, cover off, tubes unbolted, and I don't see any clips to hold the shafts in. What am I missing? Or do I just need to give it a good jolt to break it loose? The truck had the ADD system and I am thinking of swapping to the non ADD with manual hubs since I have the parts available. This is my first time with a Toyota IFS diff, but I have worked on many rease/solid axle diffs, and Jeeps with no problems. Any Ideas?

BTW, this truck is for sale. 1994 Toyota Xtracab, V6, SR5, PW, PL, PS, PB, Sunroof, Bucket seats, approx. 60K on the engine, 196K on the truck, 4" Superlift, 33x12.50 on 15"x10" chrome, driven daily, but I need a bigger truck for 2 carseats.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Hey Scott,

Here a few pics from when I changed the seal on the short side of my IFS diff.
Shaft removed

Seal removed

New seal, greased shaft


Hopefully you can see that the end of the shaft has a slot cut in it with a c-clip. In order to get the half-shafts out you just need to hit the flanges with a hammer and they will pop out. They will also pop back in.

The reason I changed the seal was that one of my hubs was left locked and I did alot of 70mph+ driving. Afterward I noticed that diff fluid was being flung out of the seal (big mess!). I attempted to change both of them but the long shaft would not come out no matter how hard i hammered it. But that seal was fine, so I left it alone.

Hope that helps! I have a few more pics of the IFS diff if you need some, PM me.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah, you'll notice that on the flange 3 of the 6 studs are missing. It's WAY easier to remove/install this third member and the CVs if you pound out 3 (or more) of the studs and drill the flange holes to 1/2". Then you just use the studs like bolts, works fine.

cujeeprs

Thanks for the help! I knew there had to be something to hold them in. I'll use the tip for the studs too.

mtrdrms

Not really a common tool but a slide hammer works great to get the axles out.

89934runr

This is assuming you have yanked the ADD actuator/housing so you can see the locking collar that slides back and forth...

On the long side, you'll need to pull out the axle using a slide hammer, or a 'generous tap' on the backside of the flange with a rubber/plastic mallet. A small snap ring keeps it in place, but that will stay on the axle as you pull it out; you can see that it rides in the groove at the end of the splined part of the axle (see it in his pics?). Once that snap ring lets go, the whole shooting match comes off.

Once you get the outer axle out- you'll have to deal with the inner adapter piece. WARNING: There is a 14-roller needle bearing down inside the small adapter hub; If you do what I did, you need to make sure ALL 14 ROLLERS come out, or you'll need to fish it out of your diff.

Here's the ADD 'adapter hub' still installed (this is what your ADD locks to when engaged):


Here's the ADD adpater hub coming out:


Here's looking down into the Diff with the 14-roller needle bearing destroyed by my inner-slide hammer (in the above picture, see the small snap ring that holds this hub in as well?)



Here's that damn needle bearing:


Once you have all this crap out of the way, replace your seals & driver's side bearing if needed, the bolt in your non-ADD tube & axle. You can rent the slide hammer at MOST auto-parts stores.

cujeeprs

Thanks for the help! I'll let you know how it goes this weekend.

leiniesred

is it an open diff? You already have the cover off, so here is the easy way.

Get the big screwdriver. Use it to lever out the axle shafts by placing it between the cross pin and the end of the axles. Avoid scuffing the cross pin where the spider gears run. The axles will pop right out. easier than digging out the slide hammer from the bottom of the toolbox.

cujeeprs

It is an open diff, and I was able to give it a few taps with a brass hammer to get the axles out. I got the gears in, and everything worked great. It's nice to have a 4wd truck again! Thanks for the help guys!

as2sb3100

I don't think you need to switch to non-add ifs crap to put manual hubs on. At least the hubs looked pretty much the same between my non-add ifs and another rig I helped work on that was add. Not %100 sure, but I think manual hubs from that gen will bolt right on. Then again, I have been wrong a few times.

cujeeprs

The hubs are the same. My truck, and I think all ADD trucks have drive flanges instead of hubs. There is not much point in installing manual hubs on an ADD truck, unless you just want to stop the cv's from spinning. I swapped out the ADD tube and actuator to the solid style for added strength and reliability, since I have had some problems witht he vacuum actuator in the past.