Curious as to has anyone ever tried to take apart the ball joint studs on the idler arm? If so is it repairable? I've never heard of it being repairable nor ever tried to, but it beats me as to why it wouldn't repairable.

 

Because you can buy a NEW (aftermarket, RockAuto) one for less than $15?

 

Yes, I took one apart. No, it's not repairable. In the sense that you could get parts to fix it. You could get inventive with it though. The part that wears out is rubber. Maybe you could fab something to work out of a stronger material. Getting it apart isn't the only trick. It's not meant to come apart...ever...for any reason. Then you're stuck trying to figure out how to make it "one piece" again. Got a welder? Don't melt whatever you put in there welding it shut. Good luck with that....

I modified/upgraded mine by tearing out the guts. Then pressing in a steel sleeve and using a ⅝" grade 5 bolt. Which also required reaming out the hole in the center link/relay rod for the bolt. I made my own castellated nut for the bolt, and drilled a hole in it for a cotter pin.

 

Order one for a 92 and up 4runner. If I remember correctly it's heavier duty

 

Well first I know you can buy a after market one, I did before I took this one off.

i was just interested in knowing if you can rebuild one of these as there really isn't much to it only the parts aren't available and like mudhippy you would have to fab one yourself.

 

If you mean it has a larger diameter shaft, yes it does. But so do 4WD trucks and 4Runners from 89-91.

86-88 4WD Truck/4Runner = 18mm shaft

89-95 4WD Truck/4Runner = 19.5mm shaft

Some aftermarket idler arms have a larger than stock 20mm shaft.

 

MudHippy you have any more info on this??? Any pics by chance?

One of the reasons I am doing a complete frontend rebuild is the approx 245000mi and the fact that I am going through idler arms. Per this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-issue-283682/ the last idler arm was replaced in October 2014 and is shot after approx 15000 miles, same problem ball end not the shaft.

Cheers
Andy

 

One of these days I'm going to make the bolt greasable. At least, that's what I keep telling myself.

Works good as is though...for the moment.

 

Thanks for the pics MudHippy!!! Are you using any kind of spacer/washer between the centerlink & Idler arm?

Cheers
Andy

 

No. But I'm not opposed to the idea. The bolt's too short to fit anything under there at the moment though.

 

if the ball end of the idler is in that sort of condition, the rest of the idler has the same wear. the only thing i know is officially serviceable on an idler is the bushings inside for the main shaft. even with a fresh rebuild, it's still not going to be as strong as an aftermarket upgrade, or even further - aftermarket + idler brace + brass bushings inside. it used to be the FA5040 idler arm, but now it's not being made.

here's some info for you: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/IdlerArm.shtml

 

Something like a hard nylon or delrin might work.

A spherical bearing, if one could find the right size to fit in the idler arm end should work pretty darn good also. Would need a couple of spacers also. Trying to keep dirt out of the bearing might be a challenge though.

Cheers
Andy

 

Unfortunately in my case this has not held true. The shaft & bushings were fine in the 3 idler arms I have replaced. It is the other end that gets all wobbly in the ball socket. Hopefully it is something in the front end related to 22yrs and 245000 miles. I am hoping to tear into the front end this weekend or next and rebuild it, just waiting on a few more items to arrive. Hopefully rebuilding the front end will eliminate the idler arm problem.

The bad one I have now is a Duralast FA5040, I will have to pay attention to what is in the box when I exchange it.
According to the 4crawler page that was posted the only arm listed that is not a crap shoot for a larger diameter shaft is the Pro-Forged 102-10045.

Cheers
Andy