Reverse drill bit

 

I buy a lot from LC and their prices are always high but sometimes their quality is worth it such as their headers but in this case 22.00 for a quality part such as this is well worth it. Worst part with LC is thier shipping charges which are off their charts. I will bet that 22.00 part will cost you 15.00 in shipping, i didnt look but thats about where they are. They ship nothing cheap and ive called and talked to them about shipping charges but their thought is handeling, packaging and misc so they believe their shipping is fair which I disagree with. Ive went to get a small item that only they carry many times only to see the shipping cost more than the part. I will continue to buy from them because of their selection and quality but its hard with the shipping prices but I have one of the idle screws and its definetly top quality part....like they say sometimes..you get what you pay for....G

 

It's not the pill, it's the o-ring. I got a couple of different sizes to fit my pill and i'm good to go. If you want to buy a complete throttle body, good luck finding it and paying the price. So just buy a couple of o-rings from your local AP store that will fit snug not letting in air then you will be on the right track.

 

I'm finally getting around to answering this thread definitively. I just did this on a 1990 3VZ-E today. I used a metric o-ring purchased at Ace. Size 8mm x 12mm x 2mm sold in 3 packs for $1.49. It's as good a fit as you're going to get(see below). Very snug, but not too tight. It needed a good licking(as in application of saliva via my tongue) to help it slide in as far as it needs to while adjusting. Works as good as new.

I did a little investigation just now. Which has led me to the following conclusion. The actual size is more than likely slighty smaller. Probably JIS(Japanese Industrial Standard) P-series. JIS-P8 / 7.8mm(ID) 1.9mm(CS). Which would be equivalent to a metric size 7.8mm x 11.6mm x 1.9mm. But good luck finding that at Ace.

http://seals.mspseals.com/item/jis-m...-rings/jis-p8?

 

i spray some dry type silicone on the rubber before install. adjust to where it needs to be and when the silicone dries. it will keep it in place for those that might have wondering idle screws lol

 

Its the same o-ring that goes on the fuel injectors..

 

What keeps tension on the screw ? The o-ring ?

Mine is loose as a goose, I can can turn it with my finger mail no problem.

 

O ring suppose to keep it from moving. If you get yours adjusted where u want. Just dab a little silicon on the outside face if it to keep it in place. It's not like its something you adjust all the time. If u do than u have other issues.

 

Just a little input here before I forget... On a recent trip to Big Bear, I was supposed to run seven or eight thousand feet at the base of the mountain/Fawnskin, I pulled in the driveway the gas station is our last stop before heading up the trail, my truck completely died... As I managed to get it to start a couple times and limp into a air and water station corner of the gas station parking lot, pulled the hood, are very quickly saw that my idle screw had pushed itself all the way in! I truly believe, since that never happened before that, the altitude had much to do with that, via pressure/ sitting of oxygen, whatever...

Obviously, as Toyo mentioned, I clearly have other issues as while I don't have to adjust that screw all the time, my idol seems to adjust itself even at sea level without that screw even moving... Asus replaced the screw as I mentioned above, LC engineering screw is going back in very quickly,... But I'm going to clean up the threads a little more and hope for it to see a little further down. For now the o-ring of it is working. Hahahaha.

 

Thanks man.

O-ring was like hard plastic.

Replaced it with a used injector o-ring, much better.

 

Screw has resistance to being tuned now.

 

I'll second that.

 

She had a very slight surge in the idle, it's gone now.

 

As it should have.

However, idle speed can need readjusted with altitude changes. Which is why Toyota recommends that you readjust for it, if the vehicle's principal usage altitude changes. See the tune up specs on the sticker under the hood. But I've never seen the screw move on its own. Even with a totally shot o-ring. Not saying it could never happen. But I just have a hard time believing it would. And I would never go so far as trying to use any type of sealant told hold the screw in its place. Seems like a total waste of time. And will only make readjustment a hassle. Instead of a one tool, 5 second, job.

Yes, I know I misspelled neutral.

 

What's up, Mud? just mentioned you the other day of the discussion of the many walking encyclopedia that I'm very grateful for on this site! Lol....

Not sure what to tell you, other than, when I left Dennys off the 210 Highway, it was idling at 750rpm.... the screw was pretty much too far out( that's been a problem recently where it is had to be out just too far in order to stay idling at a decent rpm ... As I got to the gas station, and I've already mentioned, it stalled and that's the first thing I notice when I open the hood. It was literally screwed in all the way til it couldn't go any further. I should note, that previously, I had cleaned everything out in there, along with thoroughly cleaning the throttle body, before the installation of the new TPS.... As I placed the adjustment screw back and I noticed that it's screwed in or out much easier from that point on... So I believe the gum, and everything else in there that had formed, compressed that o ring and it got harder and harder, well, I think it just became sloppy. Maybe because of the vacuum that is present within their, that could have created this situation, along with the slop, where the screw just kinda rattled and twisted its way back in it was being pulled on by vacuum? Two other guys with me verify the story, so I don't know what else to say except that happened... However, knowing you I'm pretty sure you would have the answer of it quicker than I am considering I can't even track down a gremlin after 2 years! Haha. ...

 

Thanks mud, I've got a 22 hood on my truck.
Great info.

 

Idle kept changing and noticed my idle adjustment screw kept moving after driving around. Had to use an X-acto knife to carefully cut mine out, it was hard and flat, and gave no resistance to the screw.

I had a Storehouse metric size kit on-hand from Harbor Freight and after finding this post I was surprised to find the dimension that Mudhippy had stated as the correct size: 7.8 x 11.6 x 1.9

The screw is nice and snug again. Here's my contribution and thanks to this thread.......I provided some pics to make it easy for you.

 

Man I want one of those kits. Gotta see if I can find it next time I'm at HF. Thanks for sharing.

 

For what it’s worth, you can purchase the o-ring from yotashop here: https://www.yotashop.com/idle-screw-...IaAgedEALw_wcB

 

Actually, those o-rings are available everywhere. Auto shops, hardware stores, and so forth. You can take the idle adjust screw with you to get the size right. I know it's large and weighty.A few grams, a couple of MM, huge and heavy.....

Anywho, a small note on installation, if I may be so bold...
Rub a thin layer of Vaseline, or silicone dielectric grease, onto the o-ring before installation..It will make the o-ring last much longer, and make it seal better, reducing the brittlling they suffer.

Good luck to you!
Pat☺