Idle Speed Screw O-Ring Size
 

I've searched and found pictures of the idle speed screw adjustor, I've read descriptions of it getting gummed-up, walking around on its own and other gremlinish things.

I have NOT read about what size the o-ring is. Folks have said "just go to Ace," but I'd really like to know if anyone knows the size of that little black o-ring.

Then it will be here, in this post for the permanent record.

Thanks!

Incidentally, I'm talking about the 3vze, but it appears that the 22RE and 3VZE use the same idle screw.

well i'm not sure if this is what you wanna hear but either you could a) get one from the stealer, measure it and let us know:laugh: b) remove screw, measure O.D. and find an o-ring with a slightly smaller I.D. and bam your golden. if you have a harbor freight they sell o-ring assortment kits on the cheap that are pretty handy to have around:bllama:

Sorry to bump this old thread, but i wanted to inform you guys that the dealer doesn't have a listing for an o-ring. I was at toyota for awhile with the parts guy and no bueno, nadda, you can't even buy the idle screw separate. You gotta buy the TB assembly, ya and its not cheap. I went to my local auto parts store and hit up the Dorman fasteners drawers and found a couple of different sizes and i'm golden now. Hope this helps anyone. That o-ring gets hard as a rock.

I used the top fuel injector o-ring that goes into the fuel rail :)

Thats also good to know:great:

what affects does this have when the o ring is bad

By the way MudHippy gave me the fix for my idle problem appreciate it :great:

I had just cleaned my throttle body and the idle starting staying high when warmed up at 1300. drove me nuts!:pissed:

i have see that a bad o ring can cause a vacuum leak.

thanks good info.didn't even know there was a o ring :great:

John

O-ring size for idle screw
 

I used a dash number 011 o-ring for my idle screw. The dimensions are 7/16 inch od, 5/16 id and 1/16 width. You should be able to get at most hardware stores, or a pack of 10 at Grainger.com for less than two bucks. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ORing-5JJP9?Pid=search

My low idle/loping/dying at stoplight was the result of a hard o-ring. It must have broken free at some point and and became loose enough to spin the idle screw to the bottomed out position. I spent much time and money before I finally stumbled across this fact. Have teflon tape in there holding the position right now but got an o-ring kit from Harbor Freight. Haven't gotten around to replacing it yet.

Another more pricey/fancy/brand name option, hahaha.....>>>

http://www.lceperformance.com/22RE-T...-p/1061049.htm

...........NO, I didn't buy one! lol... But MAN it's shnazzy! :D

PS> I've pulled that adjuster out and found MASSIVE BLOBS of Carbon in there.... But the o-ring was ok, thus, I still hunt for the strange loping idle gremlin to this day.... ELUSIVE BASTAGE! :( hehe

So, you know for a fact that your screw isn't creeping? I finally found out when I was so exasperated after repeatedly opening my screw over and over to make it idle that I decided to see how many twists I had opened it; Only to find that it was bottomed out!

A likely sign of my problem would be that, after adjustment, it would idle fine for a short while and then slowly develop the problem again. This is the screw slowly twisting itself to the bottom position---probably as the TB heats up and expands thus loosening the screw friction.

Hope you find your problem.

I just took my screw to Napa and the guy brought out a box of 0-rings. I tried two and when I found what fit he gave it to me.

Mine was flat and dried out/cracked. It caused terrible idle issues--it's almost sad that something so small can cause such big problems!

My other idle issues were made worse by alternator drag which I just fixed with a new alt. I am now hopeing that putting the stock spring back on the throttle linkage will solve the last of my idle issue--I put a heaver spring on back when I had a bad idle screw o-ring and other issues. Fingers crossed!

Oh, and I would pay $15 for that LCE idle screw--NICE!

Me too! And I just might.

Hey Bud, ...thanks for the input! :great:

Well, ..... I'm not POSITIVE of anything... but even SOAKED in HIGH Ether Starting fluid..... I could not get any idle jump. Which SEEMS as though it's sealed... And, it has been months, and my idle is always at 750-800, unless I'm cold, and then, with my NEW OEM IACV, ...it idles up just as it's supposed to, then down to 750-800 again. I'm not sure, man... my issue has been LONG and exhausting in the search therein... Including a whole other motor that I BUILT after PAYING some reputable but now TERRIBLE shop to rebuild it for me..... TERRIBLE job and broke all kinds of things....and even STOLE my LCE steel guide timing kit(or at least LOST it, to be fair, yet wouldn't PAY FOR ONE! After all the drama he caused me!).... My problem seems more EFI/IGN or Electrical related. But WTH, long story short.... I'M SOLD, I'ma get on that and at least slap a new o-ring in there. :great: haha. My issue is at idle, it's missing.... NEVER pings over pops or back-or-misfires. EVER! Above a certain RPM, the Miss goes away. Honestly, I KNOW it sounds like Vacuum leaking.. but I CAN NOT find one to save my life, and trust me, I WAS THOROUGH, even more so than the first time I had it rebuilt and then assembled the intake, etc., myself when it came back.(ask around, EVEN THEN I WAS THOROUGH! haha).... I've swapped out AFM's, ECU's(donor stuff).... almost everything on this is new, other than the FPR, DAMPER and EGR. (oh yeah, and the Knock Sensor).... I, PERSONALLY, can not find it so far. I'm sure a shop can, the right shop.... but I've just let it go for now. As long as it's not SUPER lean... i'm ok with it having a lil rumble in the jungle. Seems better since the last rebuild..... But that lil mystery gremlin is still there!

PS> On occasions, the rig has a tendency to idle up to 1000rpm or so at stop lights. I can feather it like crazy, etc., etc.... But NOTHING I can PHYSICALLY do makes it stop,..... and then it all on it's own seems to go away. SOMETHING in there is 'reading' or such, funky~! LOL.

Yeah, I noticed that LCE get's a VERY bad wrap on price, ....when actually, this is a VERY reasonable price for something they designed/manufacture, ....and, well, that's practical as well?

That LCE screw is exactly what I was looking for, thanks for the link!

Now I need to figure out how to get my 1/2 broken screw out of there to put the new shiny one in.