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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Idle problem

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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 09:18 PM
  #21  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Haha, I will try it when its fully warmed up tomorrow.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 09:23 PM
  #22  
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Im just thinking, but try to do it as close to the same temp as possible to eliminate any different variables. But if it runs better without the tps connected then the problem probably lies with the tps, if there is no change then it probably is not the tps.

How accurate that is i have no idea but it might be worth a shot
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 09:43 PM
  #23  
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well im not sure how it ran with it unplugged, just idled higher.

I will warm it up tomorrow and actually drive around with it unplugged then plugged back in...
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 11:56 PM
  #24  
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Woah.. I'm having very similar probs with mine too..

Can't wait to wake up tomorrow and try that..!

My trucks stalling sometimes though, and sometimes when I'm stopped the idle will bounce from 200rpm-800rpm up and down.. I have a manual and its wanting to stall a lot when releasing the clutch in first..

Last edited by forbiddenera; Aug 5, 2008 at 11:58 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 12:00 AM
  #25  
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Jay351, pardon me for going left field here...
but two questions- how's the thermostat doing and have you contemplated checking compression?

*edit- nevermind. I wanna hear how the tps test goes....

Last edited by abecedarian; Aug 6, 2008 at 12:02 AM.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 09:13 AM
  #26  
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My problem seemed to be intermittent, but, seemed better with the tps disconnected.. checking engine codes now when i can figure out how
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 09:41 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Jay351
Okay, well I unplugged the TPS and started the truck, took a few seconds to get it to start but once it did it jumped to 1500rpm. I plugged the TPS back in and the idle dropped to 1100rpm. Keep in mind the engine was cold (starting to warm up).

What do you think guys?
Ya... you can drive it with the tps unhooked... you will get poor gas mileage, and less power, but you should be able to see if it still does the idle drop... if it does... tps is not likely the case, if not... grab the fsm, and do a bench test on the tps. I drove with my tps unhooked for a couple days(about 200mi) and that was how I figured that the tps was my problem(was a different problem than what u have tho), and I didnt need a new tps... i just had to adjust mine.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 09:43 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by forbiddenera
My problem seemed to be intermittent, but, seemed better with the tps disconnected.. checking engine codes now when i can figure out how
paperclip in the te and e terminals on diag box under the hood, cross those, the get in truck turn key to on(dont start it) and watch "CEL" flash.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 09:47 AM
  #29  
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code 51..
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 11:34 AM
  #30  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Originally Posted by forbiddenera
Woah.. I'm having very similar probs with mine too..

Can't wait to wake up tomorrow and try that..!

My trucks stalling sometimes though, and sometimes when I'm stopped the idle will bounce from 200rpm-800rpm up and down.. I have a manual and its wanting to stall a lot when releasing the clutch in first..
Thats odd, my trucks idle will not change at all untill I drive it around a little. I can never just let it sit and watch it change...

Originally Posted by abecedarian
Jay351, pardon me for going left field here...
but two questions- how's the thermostat doing and have you contemplated checking compression?

*edit- nevermind. I wanna hear how the tps test goes....
Thermostat was changed less then 30k ago, have not done a compression test though.

Originally Posted by Team420
Ya... you can drive it with the tps unhooked... you will get poor gas mileage, and less power, but you should be able to see if it still does the idle drop... if it does... tps is not likely the case, if not... grab the fsm, and do a bench test on the tps. I drove with my tps unhooked for a couple days(about 200mi) and that was how I figured that the tps was my problem(was a different problem than what u have tho), and I didnt need a new tps... i just had to adjust mine.

I don't have a meter or anything like that to check the TPS. But I have to do a few things today, I will unplug the TPS again and go drive around.

I will report back with my findings.


Thanks for all the help guys
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 12:38 PM
  #31  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Alright, just got home. Drove around town a little with the TPS unplugged.

Idle was constant at 1350rpm for most of the trip, then near the end it was changing from 1200rpm at one stop light, to 1550rpm at the other, then back to right around 1350rpm.

So, think I can rule out the TPS?
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 01:23 PM
  #32  
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maybe! now lets move along to other problems

Hopefully someone will offer some advice, because i am kinda stumped.

Compression test?
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 01:27 PM
  #33  
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Test IAC valve with the duct tape trick yet? That's most likely my next step because I am having idling issues as well.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 02:30 PM
  #34  
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The last truck I came across with a problem like this was a 22re talked about for months on the forum. maybe some of you remember 91Toyota's High Idle Culprit book, I mean thread...? turns out it was one cylinder with fubu compression. symptoms were exactly the same- high idle after continuous higher engine speeds, dropping to below normal after sitting.
Also, abnormal cylinder head temps can affect the mixture and how the truck runs.
I wouldn't rule out the TPS yet, nor would I ignore the possibility of the coolant temp sensor confusing the ECU.
In the absence of an multimeter to test and adjust the TPS, the only thing you can verify is that the TPS is signalling IDLE to the ECU. If you jump the test connector as if you are going to set the timing, the idle speed should drop. if it doesn't, you can loosen the TPS and rotate it ever-so-slightly until it does, then lock it down and see how it runs.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 02:43 PM
  #35  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Which connectors do I jump? Yes, im to lazy to look through the fsm
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 02:48 PM
  #36  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
te1 & e1

good thing I'm not too lazy to type?
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 02:50 PM
  #37  
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I just read the fsm, was gonna conferm the te1 and e1 connectors

Thanks for conferming for me I will go try that now.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 02:59 PM
  #38  
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Okay, started the truck, plugged the tps back in and jumped the TE1 and e1 connectors. Nothing happend.. No change in rpm.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 03:02 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Jay351
Okay, started the truck, plugged the tps back in and jumped the TE1 and e1 connectors. Nothing happend.. No change in rpm.
hmm....

Originally Posted by abecedarian
...In the absence of an multimeter to test and adjust the TPS, the only thing you can verify is that the TPS is signalling IDLE to the ECU. If you jump the test connector as if you are going to set the timing, the idle speed should drop. if it doesn't, you can loosen the TPS and rotate it ever-so-slightly until it does, then lock it down and see how it runs.
I thought of that...
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 03:04 PM
  #40  
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Haha, im stupid I totally forgot about that! Back to the FSM I go! The TPS sure is in a tight spot to be adjusting it while the engine is running.... Which way should I turn it? Clockwise right?

Last edited by Jay351; Aug 6, 2008 at 03:10 PM.
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