rcm3

This has been happening for quite a while but I am pretty sick of holding the brake with my left foot and keeping the car from dieing with my right until I start driving.

Its a '88 4rnr with a 3vze. I already replaced the spark plugs and that seems to have had no effect. On my other car to fix a similar problem I cleaned the ICV (idle control valve). Pardon my ignorance but does a 3vze have one of these or something similar? Does it need to be cleaned out?

What else could be causing this problem? Its the worst when I first start the car up after its already warm (has already been driven). It doesn't usually die at stop lights, but maybe it will more often if I don't start to address the problem.

Thanks for your help!

ChickenLover

Air filter
Fuel filter
Timing
Clogged throttle body
Wires, cap, and/or rotor
Vacuum leak

rcm3

Thanks for the reply!

So.... first off.. Is there an ICV or something to clean first?

Then?:
Air Filter: remove and visually inspect
Clogged throttle body: (is this common?) disconnect and visually inspect
Wires, cap, and rotor: are your referring to the distributor?
Vacuum leak: I tried spraying TB cleaner around the lines, but no increase in revs.... is this really supposed to work?
Timing: How do I check this?
Fuel filter: How do I check this? Or should I just replace it?

toyaholic

if it is a manual transmission it could possibly be the dash pot.

rcm3

Nope... its an AT. But for grins whats a dash pot?

toyaholic

it's a vacum actuated diaphram or valve that keeps the throtle open on deceleration to help with emisions. a friend of mine has the same problem you are describing and that is what his problem is. not yours though if you have an auto.

95RunnerSR5

try checking out the AFM as it was the culprit when i had the same problem

Bobakazi

What does it do when it is cold?

rcm3

It seems to do pretty well on the first startup of the day for some reason.... That kinda boggles me too.

Bobakazi

That sounds like a vaccuum leak to me. Try spraying some more cleaner around your intake, and the gaskets next to/between the TB. Sometimes a vaccuum leak will not expose itself until the idle drops to normal operating temp.

rcm3

I found some threads where people are talking about the 'idle air control valve'. I will check for vacuum leaks too, but this seems interesting can anyone point me to it?

rcm3

Is it built into the TB or something?

8422r4Runner

Runs great cold, need two feet at stop signs, starts hard when warmed up.

Typical problem of a cold water temp sensor being out. It fires up fine as its getting extra gas because the computer is being told the water temp is cold. It wants to die when warm cause the cold temp sensor is still telling the computer the water is cold, so the mixture is rich. Kind of like a carb when its flooding, starts hard for the same reason, getting to much gas. When it does start I bet the motor coughs or stumbles at first. But then you give it extra gas and it kind of clears up and smooths out.

Thats my guess and reason for it. Camry's suffer from the same problem.

mtnfreak

I had the same issue. Problem was a leak in the air intake pipe at the throttle body. Drove me nuts for a couple of weeks. Try spraying cleaner (fire hazzard!), or even water, on one area at a time while the engine is running. If the idle changes, you're in the right area.

trythis

I bet it is the water temp sensor too, that and the EGr system all change according to engine temp, and if one of them doesnt read right, the computer tells everything to run funny.