point blank:
you don't adjust the idle air valve / auxillary air valve
you replace it
plain and simple.

that spanner is only a little 'adjustment' to 'calibrate' it or 'dial it in'
but if it doesn't work, you replace it.

 

maybe if you're really good, and don't bugger nothing up...
... you can clean and rebuild it and put it back in and everything is fine.
but if you do that, you'll have to figure where that spanner thing was set and put it all back like it was before you changed everything....

 

Thats what I did and I feel like I'm close to getting it dialed in. I looked it up at Autozone and they want $123, so I'm just trying to save myself that amount of money. I came out this morning and started it and the idle slowly climed to 1400 RPM, so I think it's safe to assume the temparature sensitive wax in the valve works corectly. I unpluged the cold injector and nothing happend, so would I also be corect in saying the injector is bad? At lunch I fiddled with every seting and I can't seem to make it any better. It seems like it's back to it's orgonal problem of droping to 500 RPM after starting or throttle. The only time I can seem to get that to go away is to set the idle high. PLEASE Help!!!!!

 

bump......

 

bump.....

 

Not sure how long the idle drops for, but my 22re at cold start up goes like this
second 1 idle jumps to 1500-2000rpm
second 2 idle falls all the way down to 500rpm
second 3 idle climbs to 1500rpm and stays there.

Judging by the noise, I thought it has something to do with the timing chain tensioner not having sufficient oil pressure to keep the chain tight. BUT that makes no sense as the "tight side" of the chain is kept tight by the resistance of the cam shaft.

 

my 91 22re jumps up to about 1200 on cold start and takes about 5 minutes to settle at 800.
my 88 22re jumps up to about 1000 on cold and settles at 750 in about a minute.

 

and what else did he run into? that whole thread sounds similar to how this one is going

 

bump....

 

"Idle slowly climbed to 1400rpm" from a dead cold start does not equate to a properly working AAV. The scenario that abecedarian describes is what you should be seeing....ie. Idle jumps up immediately on start up (from cold start) and settles down to around 750rpm once the thermostat opens......and then remains at that rpm so long as the motor is sufficiently warm.

You said the you unplugged the cold start injector and nothing changed. Well, that doesn't mean the cold start injector is bad, either. Were you to have difficulty starting from...again...a dead cold start, then that could mean the injector's bad. (or the timing switch for the CSI) So, just leave that out of the picture for the time being. I seriously don't think you have a problem with it, though.

For the AAV, it might be worth your while to try and find one used in operable condition. PM DeathCougar here at YT. He works for Yota salvage yard in Wash. called Nix99. They have lots of good, working parts. Save yourself some cash.

Here is the FSM troubleshooting guide.......

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3troubles.pdf

To save yourself a lot of headache in backtracking it would be a good idea to make yourself a little list of the possibilities pointed out here. Then, judging by the symptoms, test each component in question and check it off once you've tested it. If the component fails, replace it and then see where everything's at. If a component passes, of course, move on.

 

Good gawd......I'd have to go back and review, I think. That was one ambling thread....

 

Listen......while you're waiting on the AAV replacement to happen, test the coolant temp sensor, throttle position sensor, and airflow meter.

I went back a reread the entire thread...particularly your testing of the AAV. You said the truck would not idle at all which would mean to me that you are at least getting some air induction through it when it's cold. Now....once the truck warms up...with the piece of tape still in place in the TB....how does it idle? Does it idle at all?

 

didn't that one end up with a rebuild?

 

Yes, but do you remember all that sludge he had in his intake? Plus, he had that dead cylinder with broken piston rings on #3.

 

Thanks for all the good info and that trouble shooting chart. Since my last post I checked and set th etimming on the truck. Compared the AAV with one I got for free from some guy who wrecked his and I set mine to about were the other one was. I didnt use it becuase it was way coroded and the caseing was broke. The guy also let me have the cold start injector and that didn't do anything. Glad I didnt buy one. I do have a coolant temp sensor laying around becuase a while back I had the feeling that that might be a problem and now looking at that trouble shooting chart it very well could be, so since I have one I think I will throw it at it. Now that you guys mention the MAF sensor thing I will ad that I did increase the amount of air it reads going in. It realy helped with the idle. Before it would sit there and missfire ocationaly, now it idles smooth as silk.

And I guess after further review of that troble shooting chart my idle problem after throttle could come from me messing with the setting on the MAF as well

 

I put the MAF back to it's stock setting and I think that fixed all my idle problems

 

time will tell.

 

I spent so much time trying to improve the way it ran over stock, but I never got away with anything and always had to put the settings back to stock. I think I did however get away with titening the valve a little over stock just to keep them from making noise.