well, I guess the last time I filled my rear diff I tightened the sucker way to tight. I can't get it off! Then to make things worse, after not being able to get it loose with an open ended wrench, I took the impact to it with a 6 point socket. Stripped it even worse.

now what? any ideas or suggestions?

 

weld a smaller nut on it

 

That

Then get the 10mm Allen drain/fill plugs.

:wabbit2:

 

good idea actually. I dont have a welder but a couple people at work do. I have got the other fill plug that I think is just a 3/8ths socket size that came with the trail gear diff cover

 

This is the answer. Had to do it to mine last time.

 

Remove the breather and fill from it's hole.

Use a torque wrench next time.

 

A cold chisel held on the lip of the plug and tapped with a hammer so the force is going in a counter clockwise direction has worked for me in the past.

 

cut a slot in it then use a really big flat head bit and a rachet.

 

I have found the best way is to buy a cheap like Craftsman 15/16" combination wrench weld it on in a position you get a pipe on the wrench to break it loose and have enough room to spin the wrench out.

Throw it all away install new plug.

I have had to heat and bend a few wrenches to make it work.

This seems to happen all to often

I always Never Seize all this plugs most often when I change the gear oil in a new to me vehicle they get new plugs:jessica:

 

It's a 10mm if it came with the TG diff cover

:wabbit2:

 

If you already have a replacement plug, try some vice grips on that sucker since its already chewed up. The chisel trick works well too. If you don't want to wait until you can get to a welder you can also try cutting new facets on the head with a grinder or dremel to get some bite with a wrench again.

 

ahhhh sounds like the first time i changed gear oils in my truck. . . . . a weekend of screaming, having to rent a little wirefeeder, scrounging up some nuts to weld on trans and rear diff, and then screaming again cause i didn't have a wrench big enough to turn my new nuts.

plus my dumb-a## had already drained all fluids before even attempting to remove the fill plugs. . . . . . . . . good times

 

anybody else notice he said craftsman wrenches were cheap?

might want to go use a chicago electric wrench from HF, over craftsman. Craftsman won't replace it if you weld a nut to it -.-

 

X2 on the "Craftsman won't replace it if you weld a nut to it" :}LOL

 

Pipe wrench works, too.

Those allen bolt fillers from WabFab or MarlinCrawler are AWESOME!

 

I lol'd.

 

take a 6 point socket, the next size down, and pound it on there, bassicly forcing the stripped nut, to be and un-stripped nut, only smaller. I find if its not stripped bad (wich it sounds like its stripped bad) you can go with a metric size (or actually standard, since we're talking about toyota's) to pound on, since it will be a less incriment smaller, and easier to go on, but will also strip eisier....make sense?

or you can get a grinder, and grind a new head on it.

also, fill up a spray bottle with water, then heat the nut (i prefer map gas), then heat and cool, heat and cool etc. this should loosen it up.

dont crack your diff though.

 

Chisel in an air hammer worked for me

 

They will if you snap that end off and take in the big half.

:wabbit2:

 

true, maybe if you weld the crap out of it to make it brittle enough it'll snap super easy