vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Ok, well I relocated my knock sensor the other day after my knock sensor wire broke. I bought a new wire and a new $73 Ebay knock sensor. I put it in the engine hook. I didn't drill a new hole, I just slipped it into the "hook" part and put a nut on the bottom. The mounting location is fine and got rid of my code 52.

Questions is- every once in a while it will accelerate thru the rpms just fine. Other times I can hammer it, from a stop or at speed, and it feels like the timing gets turned back and it quits revving and accelerating. It's bad on the freeway on long uphill grades. If I need to put my foot in it on a long grade to maintain speed, I will top hills at 50 when it goes into what I'm calling "limp mode". It's apparent from 3k to 4,500 but will usually start pulling hard again around 5k. I can run all day without it going into "limp mode" at half throttle, but as soon as I poke the throttle it returns. Anyone experienced anything similar ever?

Now a little twist. I have had an extremely loud lifter/valve and discovered today I have 0 compression in cylinder #4. Could the knock sensor at that location be picking that clatter up and retarding the timing? It sure feels like the timing is being retarded when that happens. Everything else is in good tune, considering.

HighLux

If you have 0 compression on number 4....you have bigger fish to fry. I personally would never relocate a knock sensor...who knows what could set it off? But....yes..the valve noise you describe would drive the knock sensor crazy...if its out of its normal location and closer to the noise.

250000_yota

lol he's definitely right...i think the cause of your lack of power on the highway might just be the lack of compression on #4...

TNRabbit

ZERO compression indicates a probable valve staying open. Bent valve, broken spring, camshaft lobe, bolt stuck in it....could be any of these.

Relocating the knock sensor is just bad mojo all around....

BrianJE

why put it there? Its in a specific spot for a reason. Like others have said 0 compression in #4 cylinder is bad. Time to rebuild.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I've got decent compression in all other cylinders. I'm gonna order reman ready to run heads on ebay for $275/ea. Should take care of #4! My truck deserves it after all these reliable miles. The trucks still runs great around town, pulls good, and get decent gas mileage. It just didn't idle well. I just relocated the knock sensor there to shake that damn code 52 until I had the time to pull the intake and install correctly. Everyone be warned, if you have bad valve/lifter noise, you will have problems if you reinstall in this location as it seems that the valve/lifter noise resembles spark knock noise!

shaeff

What a cob job.

BrianJE

u do not have to pull the intake. just go through the fender well. easy fix.

camo31_10.50

well ya see Brian...on a 3VZ V6 motor....you have to pull the upper and lower intake manifolds to get at the Knock sensor.

if you tried to get at it through the fender well....then you'd be having to go through an Iron block to get to it.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I've read your "code 52" post and many others here. Thanks for the time you took to write and help me understand the code 52 situation. This forum is where I got the idea to mount in the hook in the first place. If I wasn't missing a cylinder I wouldn't have any hesitation about running a knock sensor there. I don't need one expect to complete that circuit to get out of limp mode. They're nice, and generally a good idea for Joe Pulic, but not necessary. I can hear and tune out spark knock.

shaeff

I don't mean to come off as such a stiff, but come on dude just fix the problems. You shouldn't have to tune out anything, that's all controlled by the ECU.

Knock sensors are tuned to a specific frequency. Simply moving the knock sensor didn't fix your issue, just bypassed it. There's a difference. As stated already, Toyota put it in the stock location for a reason.

As for the Code 52 thread, you're welcome. There's a lot of valuable information in there. Anyone who tells you that the FSM doesn't cover all the bases is dead wrong. Period.

BrianJE

Woops sorry thinking of the 22re. sorry.

OutlawMike

Or, a dropped valve seat, see my avatar.....

flanza

Just wanted to add to this, I tried the knock sensor relocation "trick" did not work for me. 3vze. I tried the factory sensor and the chevy s10 sensor like the one the guy on You tube claims works. nada.
Only after putting the factory sensor and new pig tail back in its original location did my CEL light got out.. Just my 2 cents. pita