so i just finished putting every thing back together after having the get a head job for my burnt valve in the number 5 hole and i was ready for my test fire and she fired for like 4 seconds and died and cranked over realllllll slow. i get out and look with one eye and see the cam gear down by the water pump and poking out of the upper timing belt cover

 

you have several options to getting it out. if you use an easy out rember to drill all the way through the bolt. here are the most commom ones that i use to get broken bolts out. most used is three just have several nuts usally doesnt like to come out the first shot
1) easy out
2) drill throught then take a small chisel and hit in it to wedge it in the hole then use a pair of vise grips and try and turn it out
3) weld a nut to it and just use a wrench to turn it out.

 

No effing way. Look at the pin that places the camshaft pulley in the correct place. It got sheared off!!! There is something not right about that. How does that camshaft look. It seems that there were some incredible forces at work. Like the camshaft had a really hard time turning. You should dive a little deeper before replacing the bolt and reassembling.
As far as the threaded part of the bolt, before you go drilling anything get a flat head screwdriver and see if you can catch on to it a bit and tap it out. The head is usually the only part of the bolt that really has the grip. With the head of the bolt out of the way it might just tap right out. If it doesn't then get the best drill bit you can. This is some high grade metal your drilling into. Keep in touch man I would love to have another pair of useful hands here in Austin sometimes. I just got done doing the HG on my 3vze as well so I'm not totally useless myself.

 

thats what i was thinkin!! but it turns with the same ammount of force as the pass side does.... maybe just an old bolt....or my torque wrench is funky even though i bought it new for this project.... i can tell that this motor has been gone through by some one who didnt care about the car but for getting their pay check given that allot of the clips and plastic mounts are broken or have been removed. so i bet they just tightened the crud outta those bolts. so now i have to wait even longer to get these bolts ordered at the dealership

 

the only thing i dont understand is how to adjust the valves? im used to chevy v8's but this engine looks like there is no adjustment or am i wrong? i just put everything back the way it came out hoping that works

 

dont know looked at the bolt on the outside of the picture and it looks like some used a standered socket on a metric cause its almost rounded

 

Yeah man. You even broke that pin off. But I remember that it is removerble though. Hopefully you can drill it out. You should buy a tourch and burn the cam bolt a bit before opening it... It may have those lock thread on them.

 

You can adjust the valve clearance on the 3VZE. It is done by replacing the shims on the top of the buckets with a different thickness. The cam lobes ride right on the shim. Search on here, there are numerous write up's and discussions. The exhaust valves are the ones that get tight, so at least check those while you are in there.

I'm still trying to figure out what the hell went on with that bolt and pin. You say above that the cam rotates just as easy as the other side? Crazy stuff.

Good luck.

 

Aren't those pins hardened?? If so drilling might be fun. Could something have jamed the belt breaking the pin and causing the gear to spin tightning the bolt there by breaking it?

 

Just go buy a new cam hahaha. But holy crap, theres something new.

 

wow went to the dealership today and they wanted 8.56$ for the cam bolts and 3$ for the pin i broke! friggen jerks!

 

I paid $5 for a transmission fill bolt....

 

Just curious how much did the machine shop charge you to fix the burnt valve/s? I am in the process of pulling my heads right now because of burnt valves. Just trying to get a benchmark number, thanks alot.

 

When I did my HG job, most of my exhaust valves were burnt, I still had plenty of power. I wouldnt pull the heads just because of an exhaust valve, this motor is a pain to work on, well not really, but its just more work and money.

 

Well my motor has no compression in one cylinder and very low in another so I have to in my case. Can you tell me how much it cost you to have one or two heads rebuilt?

 

My friend paid $250 for a valve job and decking on his heads. Some places might be more, but theres a ball park price.

 

my head job was 180 at the shop. but i took the engine apart and brought them the heads