ewong

I've been aware of the issue
I know its been documented before - even so far back in the days of list servers

I'm just gonna rant because it "got me" today

This is an American Racing Outlaw II rim

I got these off of Craigslist for way cheap ($10 each)
They were dirty as heck and it took a ton of elbow grease to get them clean.

The issue is that the wheels are LUG centric.

I ordered new McGuard much nuts, and the SHANKS fit snug in the hole - as they should.
The bolt pattern is correct - 6x5.5
I test fitted them on an IFS hub that I had (spare - just a hub)

The wheels will NOT bolt up to the my OEM rear axle.

The lugs fit the bolt pattern.
The hub hole is a little larger than the hub - so it goes on fine
I've used "chevy" steel wagon wheels for ages
BUT
Steel wagon wheels use TAPERD SEAT lug nuts
So those bring the wheel "home" centering on the lugs

These alloy wheels use SHANK lug nuts
And the SHANK fits snug in the hole
So the LUG has to be perfectly centered
And BOTH sides of Toyota my axle - the lug nuts are just a tad off - a slightly too large bolt circle diameter

So you can't torque down the shanked lug nuts.

fdp101452

If you have access to a lathe it would be very simple to turn the shanks down. I would turn them all down to the same size..... Ive not done this, so I'm guessing but I have down lots of machine work for car stuff In my gun shop.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

i have those A/R outlaw wheels on my 4r, but may not be chevy version. if we were nearer, and you had a set of toyota 4-spoke alloys, i'd trade.

ewong

The wheels fit PERFECT on the front axle (IFS hub)
Its the rear where they are off by a hair...

I cross checked with a beater OEM alloy wheel
I noted that the better OEM is
-- Hub centric
-- The studs are "swimming" in the hole for the shank

The American Racing web site shows these wheels as "fitting"

Its real close

Dublin

Mine were set to use Tapered seat or Shank Lug nuts, They came of a 2007 GMC Sierra. The Guy I bought them from was told to not use the Shank Lugs as they were prone to seizing, so I had both sets of lugs. its hard to see in the pic but the boss for the shank lugs is there, it's also tapered. I think you should be able to tapper the holes a bit, but i'm not sure that it would work if your lug bolts are off. Seems they should line up perfectly since i had to sand the hub a bit when I first installed them, very snug fit all around.

ewong

I can double check, but if I recall, my ARE Outlaw II center bore is a bit "loose" on an IFS hub

The shank holes are "snug" on the shank lug nuts - no "rattle".

The guy who sold them to me, says he had em on a Nissan HardBody pickup (aka late 1980s truck).

The wheels fit PERFECT on my IFS front (at least the drivers side, we didn't check the passenger side).
The wheel goes ONE to BOTH rear axle hubs.
As my pic sort of shows - the lug studs fit in the holes of the rim, but the bolt circle must be a tad "wider" than 6x5.5
The shank nuts wont "fit" into the hole.

I checked an OEM rim (I have ONE OEM rim - in trashed shape - it was a full size spare on my parts truck - no idea how that happened - but it had been left under a 4Runner for years and the road salt got at it).
The OEM rim is "hub centric".
The OEM "bolt holes" are HUGE - the shanks DO NOT CONTACT THE SIDES OF THE HOLE at all.
I'll have to post a pic

The current thought is to
-- measure and obtain some "hub centric adapters rings"
-- turn down the shanks a tad on some lug nuts

or

http://www.spidertrax.com/Toyota-1-1...&category=9988

ewong

Modern versions of this wheel - American Racing AR62

use a CONICAL seat (aka OEM tapered / acorn) lug nut
Those would work FINE on my truck as the conical taper would "self center"the wheel on the studs

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...5783/overview/

Mine are OLD and are not machined with the 60 degree taper
I'm sure they could be machined
I'm sure someone could back yard hack em with a drill press (or even just a drill!)
do what you want on YOUR truck - I wont backyard hack em

I dug the spare axle out of storage, and set the wheel up using a plastic 106mm to 108mm hub centric ring (Gorilla via Summit Racing about $10 for 4 rings)
The lug nuts went on FINE when I was standing the wheel upright with the wheel facing towards me (aka if the truck were on its side)

After some thought - I realized that the 106mm-108mm difference was to accommodate "center cups", and if I really wanted metal "hub concentric rings" i could "cut down" some open ended center cups (aka cups designed for the front axle which has the manual locking hubs and this need an open end to access the locking handle.
Those cups run on the order of $18 per cup; I think I'll use the plastic ring I have now.

In the mean time, I'm having a friend with a lathe, turn down some lug nut shanks from the "Gorilla" diameter of 0.685" to 0.630"
The MacGuard lug nuts have a diameter of 0.679"

Those should work, and again, worked fine on a test fit using the spare axle and the hub centering ring.
Next is to test fit the rim on the truck with the hub centering ring to see if it all goes on OK

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I ran into the same sort of issue GM wheels not the same style wheel.

They came with a truck I bought I was told for some reason they kept braking studs.

After a close look I saw the problem and tossed them in the scrap pile.

ewong

A test fit WITH the hub centering ring ( I forgot to take a pic)

The McGuard lug nuts (0.679") will go on; using lots of lube and light bumping with the impact wrench
The cut down Gorilla Nuts (0.630") go on fine; the chrome has been removed in the turn down process - gotta grease em REAL well or the lugs will galvanic corrode to the wheel.

The plastic centric ring makes things very snug; I had to "tap" the wheel off with a plastic dead blow hammer (tire not mounted)

Given @Wyoming9 issue with busted lugs, not sure what I'll do.
Im guessing these will go on, as its not a daily driver per se.