Nothing like chopping up some perfectly good sheet metal

 

lol, I know

 

Those 37's look a little cramped how they are with the thing uncut. You will remedy that right?

 

Matt, I made a template out of cardboard then stuck it in and RTVed it in there. Worked great. I love temporary fixes.

 

For you hacking nay-sayers.
This is all it took. That and some out of the pinch weld.
It still rubs, but barely

 

Just catch like 5 feet of air now and they will definitely be "form fitted". Dude, your impatience totally reminds me of myself... Haha. Better than being lazy though.

 

"Form fitting"

 

I couldnt help it. I knew it would happen sooner or later.
Heres the cut. Tell me what you think.

 

You're like my buddies, hack the fender down to where might as well just have taken it off, LOL

I've hacked mine back, but just enough to make my 37's not rub. For me no sense taking more fender than I have to.

 

These 37s are just temporary rollers. After the SAS its getting 40s, and I want it to sit as low as possible, which is why I cut so much.
I want a low COG

 

Push that SAS as far forward as you can if you wanna fit 40's. Which means moving the steering box forward and lengthening the steering shaft. Just things to know =)

speaking of moving the box forward, also when you do it reniforce the piss outta that frame rail, otherwise (especially pushing 40's) you'll have serious frame flex. The box will literally twist parallel with the frame rail. (I've dun seen it wid mah own eyyezz)LoL .. It's not as bad on mine cuz my box is stock location but my buddies rig we had to gusset it up to reduce the frame twist right there.

 

so how's the clearance of the fronts when you turn the steering wheel to full lock?

 

Now if only I could get my 30x9.5's to stuff!! I'm afraid to take away from the stock look of my 4x2 fenders

 

im pro cut. Looks reallllllll good.

 

I know, old thread... but it seems like photos of the truck with an SAS would bring a semblance of closure... have you swapped yet?