dave1993

I got a 1987 4X4 Im going to try to buy but wanted to know what it costs (est) to rebuild the carb on the truck. I havent called the guy since its late but in the ad the truck has been sitting a while. What other issues should I look for in that sort of truck? Hes asking $1500. I got pics attached

kyle_22r

a carb rebuild from a reputable shop can run anywhere from $150 to $400 depending on where you go and how bad of shape the carb is in. you could also replace it with an aftermarket carburetor like a weber or 2bbl holley.

dave1993

Ok talked to the guy and dont know what to make of this truck. Body/frame has 375k on it (not a typo) and the new motor has 175k on it. dont know if thats too much of a project truck for a novice like me.

curtiswyant

I just bought a reman carb on ebay for about $100. Then, you can rebuild your carb as a spare for $20 or whatever

Bill

If you have to rebuild the carb, you may think about just replacing it. Mabey go to something like a Webber 32/36 or 38/38(for more power).

Checkout Classic Celica.com. Lots of great carb, and 22R info there.

hmmwv15

I dont know where else to post this, but Im having trouble with my stock 22r carb (I think). Ya see, my truck -an 86 hilux pickup- will start up, idle, but when it idles, the rpms flux up and down, and when it goes down, it almost dies, then goes back to normal idle speed,then down again. I have already re-built the carb and the idle speed adjuster screw has to be all the way tightened for it to even run like that. I'm kind of confused as to whether or not its the carb or some other problem that I havent discovered yet. like I said, im new to this because I just got this truck from my dad and he let it sit on the side of the house for 5 or so years. Once again this is an 86 toyota pickup, 2 barrel carb 2.4 liter 2wd. Ya, I know its only a two wheeler but I would really appreciate the help. Thanks, Sean

stock87

Sean:

You may want to start a new thread to get some better responses, but here are a couple ideas.

Did you remember to plug the electrical connector back in?
Is the choke closing when cold and opening as the truck warms up? (movable plate on the left of the carb as you are looking toward the back of the truck)
Are there any loud hissing noises like a vacuum leak?

What RPMs are it fluctuating at, or do you have a tachometer?

sschaefer3

I paid the guy in Tucson featured in the Toy 4WD Owner Mag to rebuild/remove all emissions/modify bowl to run on it's side, for $300.00

22R Carb. Emissions is gone, re-built and it runs on it's side. They TIG welded some custom stuff, etc. Lots of plugs. For what they did, I thought that was more than fair.

http://toyotaperformance.com/

hmmwv15

Well, some good news, and bad. I tweaked everything back to normal like yall told me, you know checked everything, and it idles perfectly after it warms up. The bad news is that when I turn it off, it shakes and then dies. once again, I appreciate the help.

all_terrain17

Isn't that what it's supposed to do?

stock87

I think he means it's dieseling, or running on for a second or two after you turn the key off.

That's a 95% sure sign the fuel cut solenoid isn't working. Only item on the carb with two wires going into it, should hear/feel a click from it when 12V is applied to it. It's job is to close fuel flow to the idle circuit when you turn the key off.

Occasionally some carb adjustmenst being WAY out of whack will cause it to do the same thing... or carbon buildup in the engine. Check the fuel cut though, it's the most likely culprit.

hmmwv15

well, its not quite dieseling, but I think you might have something on the carbon deposits in the engine. What kind of work will it take to get those deposits out. and how do you post a new thread??

stock87

Out on the main thread title list there is a link at the top and bottom of the page to start a new thread.

As for the carbon, do a search on Seafoam or BG44K. Basically you take it and SLOWLY while the truck is running pour it down the carb. You might have to have someone keep on the gas a little to keep it from dying. Pour about 1/3 to 1/2 of the can in that way. Emphasis on slowly. You don't want to just dump a whole bunch in and bend/break something when the engine tries to compress that much liquid. At the end of 1/2 or so of the can, pour a little more in and let the engine die/turn it off. Let it sit for about half an hour while the carbon breaks up. When you start it up again (you'll have to floor it, it will act flooded), it will smoke like you are burning every fluid that has ever passed through the engine. That's the carbon burning off. If it's really badly carboned, you may have to do it a couple times. Otherwise, just dump the rest of the can in the gas tank and let it work through the system that way.

hmmwv15

I'll try that, but First i'll have to save up to get it. Where do you get it at anyway? Can you get it at autozone or advanced autoparts, or do you have to go to a boating place?

stock87

Sorry, didn't see your post until now.

You can read about SeaFoam here, and locate someplace to buy it: http://www.seafoamsales.com/

BG44K is harder to find, but Google it, and you should come up with some good info.

hmmwv15

cool, I should be getting some tomorrow.

stock87

Again, be careful when doing it, I've heard stories of people blowing a rod through the side of the block by just dumping heaps of it in (Ford Ranger). Basically I have someone keep it a little bit above idle, and pour a small trickle in. You can also pour a little more in once you have shut it off. Oh, and do it in a well-ventilated area... heh. BIG smoke.