I'm trying to replace the rotor and cv joint, but I am stuck. What do I do next to get this black thing off? (see below)

 

Look online under repair info at Autozone. Diagrams and textual instructions.

http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...00c1528004d8da

 

there are conical shaped split washers around each of the 6 bolts. tap tap tap. maybe a torch. don't bugger the threads on the studs though.

 

Penetrating oil on those cone washers around those studs. Hit the housing w/ a hammer at the side right where the cone washer is inserted and it will pop right out. Keep your eye on them as some realy do pop right off. Two are already out it looks like so repeat 3 more times. Try not to deform the metal too much. I see a little deformation on the one at the top so they've likely been off before. Good luck.

 

NO NEED TO HIT THE HOUSING WITH A HAMMER! As you see the results...it deforms the metal.

Use a brass drift on the stud and tap the brass with a hammer and they'll pop right off up to the brass drift.

 

heat the cone washers up with a torch propane works for 20 seconds then tap the side of add flange with a hammer lightly and they will pop like hot pop corn

 

I used a brass drift on either the end of the studs of on the split of the conical washer. hit each one of them. some with pop off others will just loosen to the point where you can wiggle the rotor off easily

 

Sometimes you can tap a small straight blade screwdriver into the split in the cone washer and pull it out. I do that on class 8 trucks, same cone washer on the drivers.

 

There are 2 threaded holes on the black thing with nothing in them. Find 2 bolts that fit, I think I used 2 of my hood bolts since I had it off anyways. Tighten the 2 bolts in the holes, alternate between them and you will see the black thing start to move. You don't need to loosen it too far. About 1/8" gap will be enough. Then simply remove the bolts again. The cone washers will fly off so watch your eyes. You might have to tap a couple but nothing difficult at all. There is no need for a torch or anything like that. I didn't even have to use penetrating spray.

Good luck,
Jason

 

Forgot to mention...keep the nuts threaded on just a couple of turns. They will prevent the cone washers from flying off and getting lost.

 

Jason, this is kinda the approach I had in mind (i think from Chilton's) - are those bolts metric?

Thanks everyone for the replies so far.

Chris
Charlotte, NC

 

no heat them up and tap with hammer im telling you takes 5 minutes! for both sides

 

x10 on the brass drift and a hammer. Don't beat on the housing. I used a piece of aluminum bar stock on mine. That also works.

 

Yes, they are metric. Just pull one from your hood hinge and try it. If it works take it to the hardware store and get a couple. Or just pull one from each side of the hood. When you're done just bolt them back on. Mine weren't damaged at all. They just basically thread in and press on the steel behind, pushing the plate off.

Or if you need an excuse to play with your torch then do that. But why would Toyota put those handy little threaded holes there if they didn't intend for you to use them???

Jason

 

I have a question to go with that.. after you get it off how do you seperate the rotor from the hub housing and whatever else that is that holds the bearing and seal on the back side of the rotor???

 

The rotor is bolted to the back side of the hub.

 

Make sure you have a 54mm socket for the wheel bearing nuts... Don't use a stake.. IT DOESNT WORK...

 

Brass drift takes all of 30 seconds to get all six washers off.

Also a lot better than beating the housing with a hammer.

 

Great success in getting that part off. You can see it on the left there, removed. Two questions now:

a) I noticed a rubber seal on that part I removed. What is it called, and where can I get a replacement seal?

b) The next step, I believe, is to removed that large nut in the center. I think it is 54mm, can anyone confirm that?

 

as for the seal, i do not know. yes the nut is a 54mm or 2 1/8 standard socket. i just bought one for mine at sears $28 and they are 3/4 in drive so make sure you have a 3/4" rachet or a step down from 3/4 to 1/2. i believe on yours there will be 2 54mm nuts with a washer in b/w that has tabs to fold down over the front and rear nut.

good luck