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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

How heavy is a short bed?

Old Sep 17, 2008 | 05:25 PM
  #21  
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How long will it actually last? Well acutally, it'll be replaced tomorrow (hopefully) with a nice piece of 1/2" thick steel.

How long would it have lasted if I kept it on there 24/7? Who knows. Can drop a couple more bucks for treated wood if you wanted to.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 05:40 PM
  #22  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
Originally Posted by SwampThing
Goood point. Where to find these shims...
4crawler sells shims
Originally Posted by SwampThing
And I found out those shims are like $50... I think I'll just buy some shorter shackles. Think that'd accomplish the same thing, and would be easier and safer.


Lol, yeah I said it. Safer


Edit: Think I'm gonna make a new thread for the flatbed build. This is actually a great idea for someone who wants to build one for uber cheap...At lease it'll probably be a cheap idea to test right?
shorter shackles will reduce your lift and also rotate your pinion down towards the ground, possibly increasing the u-joint angle. so maybe read here (search the page for the word 'cardan'): http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension-III.shtml

Last edited by abecedarian; Sep 17, 2008 at 05:42 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 05:52 PM
  #23  
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Well I know about cv shafts. It's just that they want $250-300 to make mine into a cv, and I was like hell, I'll figure something out! lol...

Wow, only $7 for the 4crawler shims. That's badass. Just wondering if it'll work with trailgear's springs...
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:10 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SwampThing
Well I know about cv shafts. It's just that they want $250-300 to make mine into a cv, and I was like hell, I'll figure something out! lol...

Wow, only $7 for the 4crawler shims. That's badass. Just wondering if it'll work with trailgear's springs...
I would think they would seeing how the the springs have to fit to the stock mounting pads, so wouldn't that also mean that the shims would too?
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:16 PM
  #25  
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Actually just measured... 2.25" wide perches and leafs, so they're a 1/4" wider than stock.

So I just realized I can't measure my driveline angles. Don't even have the transfer case or 3rd member in lol...

And also, as far as phasing goes, both joints are supposed to be lined like O==|=======O right and not ||==|======O right? If that makes sense...
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:37 PM
  #26  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
Originally Posted by SwampThing
Well I know about cv shafts. It's just that they want $250-300 to make mine into a cv, and I was like hell, I'll figure something out! lol...

Wow, only $7 for the 4crawler shims. That's badass. Just wondering if it'll work with trailgear's springs...
well, even though it's constant velocity, it's not a CV joint like the front is.

as for the shims, they mount on the pin between the spring and perch, so why wouldn't they work?
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:40 PM
  #27  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
Originally Posted by SwampThing
Actually just measured... 2.25" wide perches and leafs, so they're a 1/4" wider than stock.

So I just realized I can't measure my driveline angles. Don't even have the transfer case or 3rd member in lol...

And also, as far as phasing goes, both joints are supposed to be lined like O==|=======O right and not ||==|======O right? If that makes sense...
yeah, the ends of the shaft should be mirror images of each other so:
]==[O|O]===========[
or
O==O]|[O===========O

(the verticle line | is the center carrier bearing on a 2 piece shaft)

additionally, the angles at each end of each shaft section should be as close to the same as possible

Last edited by abecedarian; Sep 17, 2008 at 07:41 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:44 PM
  #28  
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Eh, mine's a single piece with the slip shaft.

Well that's what I though. Mine's been clocked at 90º, but I've had no problems until I took off the bed and potentially changed the tcase and pinion angle to cause bad vibrations. Maybe it'll clear up if I clock it right... Dunno, guess it's something else to look into...
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 07:56 PM
  #29  
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Wow, I dunno if it's the fact that I phased the dshaft correctly, or that I added about two coke bottles full of gear oil to the tcase, or what, but the noise/vibration is nearly gone. It's still there, and from the fact that I took off the bed no doubt, but I imagine once I get longer shackles or add some heavy plate for the flatbed or get some shims, it'll all go away. It's actually drivable now.

And I measured my angle and came up with FT-RT 47.13/16", and FB-RB 48.7/16". So that makes 1.3/8" difference, or 19.8º (right?). So is that within normal operating range for a single cardian driveshaft?
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 11:41 PM
  #30  
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well i skipped to the bottom because i didnt want to read it all but, alot of times its a ujoint that'll give vibs, even if it doesnt fell bad by doing a movement test doesnt mean its not, and if its not then you have spare trail parts for the glove box,
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 11:09 AM
  #31  
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holy bump! I thought Clint was back!
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #32  
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The obvious solution to me would be to weight down the bed. Maybe a pole and some friends could help



similarity?

Last edited by Matt16; Apr 25, 2010 at 02:01 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #33  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Hahaha WIN!
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