How heavy is a short bed?
#21
How long will it actually last? Well acutally, it'll be replaced tomorrow (hopefully) with a nice piece of 1/2" thick steel. 
How long would it have lasted if I kept it on there 24/7? Who knows. Can drop a couple more bucks for treated wood if you wanted to.

How long would it have lasted if I kept it on there 24/7? Who knows. Can drop a couple more bucks for treated wood if you wanted to.
#22
4crawler sells shims
shorter shackles will reduce your lift and also rotate your pinion down towards the ground, possibly increasing the u-joint angle. so maybe read here (search the page for the word 'cardan'): http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension-III.shtml
And I found out those shims are like $50... I think I'll just buy some shorter shackles. Think that'd accomplish the same thing, and would be easier and safer.
Lol, yeah I said it. Safer
Edit: Think I'm gonna make a new thread for the flatbed build. This is actually a great idea for someone who wants to build one for uber cheap...At lease it'll probably be a cheap idea to test right?
Lol, yeah I said it. Safer
Edit: Think I'm gonna make a new thread for the flatbed build. This is actually a great idea for someone who wants to build one for uber cheap...At lease it'll probably be a cheap idea to test right?
Last edited by abecedarian; Sep 17, 2008 at 05:42 PM.
#23
Well I know about cv shafts. It's just that they want $250-300 to make mine into a cv, and I was like hell, I'll figure something out! lol...
Wow, only $7 for the 4crawler shims. That's badass. Just wondering if it'll work with trailgear's springs...
Wow, only $7 for the 4crawler shims. That's badass. Just wondering if it'll work with trailgear's springs...
#24
I would think they would seeing how the the springs have to fit to the stock mounting pads, so wouldn't that also mean that the shims would too?
#25
Actually just measured... 2.25" wide perches and leafs, so they're a 1/4" wider than stock.
So I just realized I can't measure my driveline angles. Don't even have the transfer case or 3rd member in lol...
And also, as far as phasing goes, both joints are supposed to be lined like O==|=======O right and not ||==|======O right? If that makes sense...
So I just realized I can't measure my driveline angles. Don't even have the transfer case or 3rd member in lol...
And also, as far as phasing goes, both joints are supposed to be lined like O==|=======O right and not ||==|======O right? If that makes sense...
#26
as for the shims, they mount on the pin between the spring and perch, so why wouldn't they work?
#27
Actually just measured... 2.25" wide perches and leafs, so they're a 1/4" wider than stock.
So I just realized I can't measure my driveline angles. Don't even have the transfer case or 3rd member in lol...
And also, as far as phasing goes, both joints are supposed to be lined like O==|=======O right and not ||==|======O right? If that makes sense...
So I just realized I can't measure my driveline angles. Don't even have the transfer case or 3rd member in lol...
And also, as far as phasing goes, both joints are supposed to be lined like O==|=======O right and not ||==|======O right? If that makes sense...
]==[O|O]===========[
or
O==O]|[O===========O
(the verticle line | is the center carrier bearing on a 2 piece shaft)
additionally, the angles at each end of each shaft section should be as close to the same as possible
Last edited by abecedarian; Sep 17, 2008 at 07:41 PM.
#28
Eh, mine's a single piece with the slip shaft.
Well that's what I though. Mine's been clocked at 90º, but I've had no problems until I took off the bed and potentially changed the tcase and pinion angle to cause bad vibrations. Maybe it'll clear up if I clock it right... Dunno, guess it's something else to look into...
Well that's what I though. Mine's been clocked at 90º, but I've had no problems until I took off the bed and potentially changed the tcase and pinion angle to cause bad vibrations. Maybe it'll clear up if I clock it right... Dunno, guess it's something else to look into...
#29
Wow, I dunno if it's the fact that I phased the dshaft correctly, or that I added about two coke bottles full of gear oil to the tcase, or what, but the noise/vibration is nearly gone. It's still there, and from the fact that I took off the bed no doubt, but I imagine once I get longer shackles or add some heavy plate for the flatbed or get some shims, it'll all go away. It's actually drivable now.
And I measured my angle and came up with FT-RT 47.13/16", and FB-RB 48.7/16". So that makes 1.3/8" difference, or 19.8º (right?). So is that within normal operating range for a single cardian driveshaft?
And I measured my angle and came up with FT-RT 47.13/16", and FB-RB 48.7/16". So that makes 1.3/8" difference, or 19.8º (right?). So is that within normal operating range for a single cardian driveshaft?
#30
well i skipped to the bottom because i didnt want to read it all but, alot of times its a ujoint that'll give vibs, even if it doesnt fell bad by doing a movement test doesnt mean its not, and if its not then you have spare trail parts for the glove box,
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