??? How do you take out the top 2 17mm bolts on the bell housing??
11-07-2008, 07:44 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
Quesiton: Is it easier to take out the tranny with the engine, (even thought I don't need it), or unbolt the engine from the tranny and remove the engine only. (I"m also thinkinging of the ease of putting everything back in.)
11-07-2008, 10:13 PM
#23
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Pull the motor with the tranny and put it back in the same way. But do whatever you think is easiest for you.... You would of had everything out by now and the motor torn down if you'd just pulled it as one. =/
11-07-2008, 10:20 PM
#24
Registered User
Here lets see what the engineers at Toyota think...
There thoughts on removing the motor:
and... how they suggest reinstalling it:
both found in the Engine Mechanical portion of your FSM.
There thoughts on removing the motor:
and... how they suggest reinstalling it:
both found in the Engine Mechanical portion of your FSM.
11-08-2008, 04:13 AM
#25
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Thread Starter
I'm learning by doing this time around. 
It "seemed" pulling the tranny out with the engine would have been more difficult. I thought I would have troubles getting the engine + tranny out in one piece without getting hung up, or involving calculus.
BTW, I don't have a single rear motor mounting bracket, like all the books say. There are two, one passenger side (directly under the intake mainfold), one driver side (under the alternator). I'm missing something, or misunderstanding something? See picts below
Passenger Side
Driver Side
It "seemed" pulling the tranny out with the engine would have been more difficult. I thought I would have troubles getting the engine + tranny out in one piece without getting hung up, or involving calculus.BTW, I don't have a single rear motor mounting bracket, like all the books say. There are two, one passenger side (directly under the intake mainfold), one driver side (under the alternator). I'm missing something, or misunderstanding something? See picts below
Passenger Side Driver Side
Last edited by PDX_1ton; 11-08-2008 at 04:14 AM.
11-08-2008, 06:41 AM
#27
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Thread Starter
Ozzie thank you for your delightful insight....... I understand what the hooks are for my question is more to do with unbolting and manuvering the enigine out.
11-08-2008, 07:40 AM
#29
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11-08-2008, 06:54 PM
#30
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two 10-inch extensions...
I did this today. I was dreading it based on what I've read, but it really was easy.
A 3/8 ratchet, a ten-inch standard extension, and a 10-inch wobble extension did the trick for me. The wobble provides enough angle between the two extensions to allow easy access to both bolts, no problem at all. This is on a 1990 2wd v6 pickup on jack stands, fyi.
Now if I could just figure out why the tranny won't slide off
. This is my first transmission removal, so I'm going slow. I think I've got all the bolts out, but the tranny is not moving off the engine.
A 3/8 ratchet, a ten-inch standard extension, and a 10-inch wobble extension did the trick for me. The wobble provides enough angle between the two extensions to allow easy access to both bolts, no problem at all. This is on a 1990 2wd v6 pickup on jack stands, fyi.
Now if I could just figure out why the tranny won't slide off
. This is my first transmission removal, so I'm going slow. I think I've got all the bolts out, but the tranny is not moving off the engine.
11-08-2008, 07:20 PM
#31
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Make sure you're not in a bind (the tranny jack isn't too high or low), then get behind it and rock the tail shaft left-right-up-down sometimes these things are stubborn, especially when the pilot bearing is gaulded to the input shaft.
And an extra set of hands helps too.
11-10-2008, 07:41 AM
#34
I tried for hours yesterday to get to those two bolts with no luck at all. I couldnt even get the socket on the right hand one. I also have only been able to turn the 17mm just above the starter about 1/8th of a turn and now cannot get it to budge. Broke the u joint because of the angle.
This a 3.0 with auto 4wd, where do you get up to the socket on the right hand side from? There are cables, an oil cooler and hard lines all in the way for a direct shot at those bolts. I cannot reach the connectors to unplug them.
Also the starter motor, I've removed the 14mm bolt behind it, do I also need to remove the two long bolts going across the top and bottom of the starter?
This a 3.0 with auto 4wd, where do you get up to the socket on the right hand side from? There are cables, an oil cooler and hard lines all in the way for a direct shot at those bolts. I cannot reach the connectors to unplug them.
Also the starter motor, I've removed the 14mm bolt behind it, do I also need to remove the two long bolts going across the top and bottom of the starter?
11-10-2008, 08:08 AM
#35
There should be a stud with a nut plus the through bolt holding the stater in place:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Update-II
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Update-II
11-10-2008, 08:32 AM
#37
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Thread Starter
I finally decided to pull out the transmission with the engine. But now I'm not sure I undid all the bolts to the drive shaft (I think this is called the member). I see the mounting bracket to the transmission (4 bolts to the plate on the transmission or 2 bolts to the frame). But the bugger will not come out. Any suggestion? Are there bolts from the transmission into the member?
Last edited by PDX_1ton; 11-10-2008 at 08:35 AM.
11-10-2008, 06:09 PM
#38
Threadhijack!! Ok, got the bolts out and am going to remove the engine tomorrow. What a difference a day makes. Struggled all weekend and spent 30 minutes today and got both of them out.
11-10-2008, 08:11 PM
#39
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Dont kill yourself. Pull the motor with the tranny or take the heads off first. With the heads off, they are easily accessable. You are going to remove the heads anyway, right?
