I'm sure this was a silly way to get the job done, but I went throught the process of pulling the moter with the tranny, started to pull it out, realized I could get to the bolt with just one more inch. Then I used a the breaker bar and loosened the bolt. Pushed everthing back into place and bolted the tranny back in.

The engine came out quickly from there. (Except I forgot the starter)

Thanks for everybody's help.

 

If this is directed at me, no, heads are staying put - spun bearing replacement only.

How many bolts are there between engine and tranny? I have 10 out - did I miss some? I thought I heard there were 12.

 

how long of extension.
This is how to torque Top bolt on Bell housing of Toyota Tacoma.

 

don't waste your time putting a torque wrench on a setup like this, there is way too much flex in all of those extensions to get an accurate torque setting.

 

I don't think torque works that way. If you put , say, 20 ft-lbs on one end of a rubber dog bone, the other end resists twist with the same torque. It has to go somewhere! Physics students would recognize a "free-body diagram."

So use a torque wrench.

Now, if you were trying to do torque-to-angle (like head bolts), and measured angle all the way back at the wrench, yes, flex would rule that out.

 

try it on a bolt you can get to and then take all the extensions and wobbles off and try it with just a socket, I'm pretty sure you'll find there is a difference. I've done it.

 

As long as all of the extensions and u-joints are in a straight line, there's no difference. If you're measuring a difference, there's something wrong with your measuring technique.

On the other hand, if you've got angles involved, it gets more complicated. U-joints don't transmit torque evenly around corners.

 

Try it before you call BS. Also bell housing bolts are not a critical torque like a head. they just need to be tight enough to hold and not loosen over time with vibration.

 

Sorry, it's just plain physics and there's nothing to discuss. Torque doesn't change throughout the length of a shaft. Your measuring gear might get confused by the torsional windup, angles of u-joints, etc., but that's a measurement problem, not a redefinition of physics.

 

Sorry, but I've taken physic in college and there are a lot of concepts/experiments that are counter intuitive and if you are not willing to experiment or prove your theory you can just bury your head in the sand and ignore advice. I have tested this in real life and there is a significant difference. Believe what you want, I am just telling you what I have found over 30 years working on cars, it's like turning a torsion bar that isn't straight. It won't transfer all of the torque accurately. This is also a thread that died out 10 years ago.

 

AKWheeler -

Could you describe the test(s) you've done which lead you to conclude that flex in the coupling produces different torque results? As you said, it seems so counter to what I know about Static Mechanics that I'd like to try to duplicate the result. You don't want your conclusions to end up in the Journal of Irreproducible Results!

 

using a setup like the picture above with several extensions and a flex joint torque a bolt to any number you like, then remove all except the socket and without changing the setting on the torque wrench see if the same bolt turns more before the torque wrench clicks.

 

There are "torque sticks" sold specifically to attach to pneumatic impact wrenches that act like a torsion bar and supposedly reduce the output to a certain range. They are used by some tire shops to torque wheels and come in sets of different colors for different ranges to match manufacturer's recommendations. Same theory, but I don't like them and I don't believe a cheap/weak impact will still be in the same range as a good/strong impact when using these, they look just like an extension and it's another example that supports my claim, an extension acts like a torsion spring.

 

Nobody bothered to try this? No-one else cares to comment?

 

Well, I don't have the tools to make sure the "click" happens at the correct torque on my "clicker style" torque wrench. I would want to make sure my torque wrench is telling me the correct value when it is supposed to have reached the proper torque. This could be part of the problem.

Theoretically, adding socket extensions should not change your torque value. In practice, you might hit the correct torque and you might not.

The video below shows this to be true. You might notice that the key to getting the most accurate reading is to keep your extensions as straight as possible. Adding any swivel sockets or "U" joints will change torque reading if they are not in line (exactly 90 degrees) with the torque wrench head as well as letting the extensions "bend" because of play. It is often times difficult to keep everything perfectly straight (there might be things in the way for a straight shot) when torquing a fastener on your vehicle and this is where most of the issues show up.

 

and you would never put a U - joint on your setup if you could get a straight shot. If you have a torque wrench try it,

 

Exactly. That is why using a torque wrench with a "U"-joint is probably worse than just tightening by feel with a regular ratchet.