Patrickeroy

I have a valve stuck on my 1994 4runner and I am wondering if there is anyway to get it unstuck without pulling the heads?

Charchee

Some have had luck putting sea foam into their intake via the brake booster vacuum line. I have done this when I thought I had a lost cause on my hands and it didn't hurt anything but I can't testify to the effectiveness of it. Sea foam also makes a spray can of stuff just for this application. It's about $12 a can. Easier to do but not by much. Might be worth a try. If it works, great. If not, you're going to be pulling heads anyway.

Patrickeroy

I was able to do a compression test today and the #5 Cylinder had zero pressure. I mean not even a little. Any ideas What would be a next step? If it is a stuck valve I am hoping that I could just tap it loose if that is possible. Anything to avoid pulling the heads if I can.

Charchee

Number five is the most common one to burn an exhaust valve. Happens to a lot of folks. You are going to have to pull that valve cover off and see what you find. I doubt there is anything you can do with the cover on there. I have leaking valve seals in my 3.0. There are folks that say you can do the seals with the heads on but after reading a bunch of threads and, really, just thinking about the way it all works, have decided that the risk of dropping a valve is just too great and I'll just live with a few minutes of smoke after startup.

If you get carried away and knock that valve down into the cylinder, it's all over. One trick I did learn about, regarding fooling with the valves (heads on) is to pull the spark plug and run a coil of rope down into the cylinder through the hole. Idea is to fill up the hole with the rope to the point that the valve can't drop into the cylinder. You may be able to determine exactly when that valve should be closing, roll the engine to that spot and then tap on it gently from the top. Who knows? I guess you don't have much to loose.

Patrickeroy

Ok... so it may be burnt valve and not actually a stuck valve. Do you know of any threads or tutorials that layout how to remove the heads. I know how to get it down to the valve cover but after that I would just be guessing. I may just attempt this myself. Guess it won't Hurt I picked this thing up for $500 so it will be a fun project.

scope103

Don't even TRY to work on your truck without the factory service manual.

And you here you go! http://web.archive.org/web/201208100...uchanan/93fsm/

Charchee

Scope is absolutely right. Do try and fix it but don't just go hap haphazardly at it because you didn't pay much for it. My son's laptop cost $500 and you won't catch me taking it apart without a great deal of study.

Patrickeroy

Ok, thanks for the manual and advise.
Will that work for my truck? Mine is the 3vze 6 cylinder. That manual says for 4 cylinder 2.4 engine. I know I am going to need some specific tools. I will need to get a torque wrench.
are there any other tools that I would need before I jump into this?

Patrickeroy

Ok, thanks for the manual and advise.
Will that work for my truck? Mine is the 3vze 6 cylinder. That manual says for 4 cylinder 2.4 engine. I know I am going to need some specific tools. I will need to get a torque wrench.
are there any other tools that I would need before I jump into this?

rattlewagon

You can get a chiltons manual at most parts stores, they work pretty well and are not that expensive.

The hardest part for me was always the cam pulley bolt. That and fitting my hands in the cramped engine bay. Haha.

scope103

Take another look; that manual includes both engines.

Yes, you will absolutely need a torque wrench. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-ha...rench-239.html (I have all three sizes (1/2, 3/8, 1/4" drive) to adequately cover the range, but you can get by with just the 1/2" and a light touch).

Read through the manual (the correct section), and visualize each step. That will help you pick out the tools you need to get started. But don't get misled into thinking you can buy a bunch of tools and parts, then get the job done between 9am and lunch some Saturday. A professional with experience on these engines might be able to, but you're learning. Just as importantly, your engine is terra incognito right now; you don't know what you'll find.

I think the most important tools you need to have are a camera, a notepad, and a place to work. You don't want to be the guy/gal posting a picture saying "I took my engine apart, and now I don't know where this thing goes." Doing engine work in a dirt field of a vacant lot is really taxing; find a garage where you can work for at least two weeks.

Charchee

Get a paint pen and duck tape along with various sizes of vacuum caps and golf tees, so you can mark both sides of everything you take loose and cap or plug up the holes you make. Thread bolts back into the holes they came out of where possible, after removing parts. If you remove one or both heads, they need to be taken to a machine shop for testing and surfacing. These engines have head gasket sealing issues so there is no room for error in the tolerances.

Lastly, the crossover pipe is going to give you terrible trouble. If you are going to remove it, start soaking all of your exhaust nuts in oil right away. If you are still able to run the engine at this point. Let it warm up and then spray down the nuts so the oil will get pulled into the threads as it quenches the heat. Some folks remove both heads together with the exhaust still on. I'm told this is the easier way to pull both heads but cant testify to it. Important thing is to not round off any of those nuts or you are going to be miserable. Good 6 point socket seated properly or don't even try it.

Patrickeroy

I'll check through the manual again. Thanks for the info! I would imagine it would be a few weeks before I can even get started . I have to make a list of the tools to get and find a Place to do this job. I'll post some updates as I start working on it.

anndel

The manual includes both 22RE 4 cyl and the 3VZE V6 engines.